GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
意大利、台湾、东京。追溯个人旅行的记忆。 Italy, Taiwan, and Tokyo: Memories of Past Travels
佐佐木凯 饮食记者、编辑
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.114
写着关于饮食的事情。料理种类不限,从东京最先进的餐厅到本地的大众酒馆。无论是高级还是大众,还是下酒菜还是甜食,都是上下左右的喜爱,吃喝又会肥肉,写报道。一般认为没有节操,但被问到这是什么的,就举出了“意大利的味道”。理由有很多种,多亏了葡萄酒的缘分,这5年来我去了12个州旅行,杂志上还和意大利厨师一起连载意大利料理。开场白。
所以,当听说“EATALY”要来银座的时候,我就跳了起来。今年夏天的事。除了市场之外,还有3家餐厅和咖啡店的规模是国内最大的。自从急忙走来之后,我又重新去了一点久的GINZA SIX。易懂。难得的机会,同时期开业的2家店也要检查。台湾菠萝蛋糕和鳗鱼。都是喜欢的东西。
“伊塔利”(6F)中最常去的是“LA PIAZZETTA”。从11点开店到23点营业。把意大利家常菜盛到小盘子里的下酒菜有30种以上,一盘500日元左右。谢谢。午后的采访回来,喝一杯啤酒。傍晚,吃饭前用橄榄做下酒菜,浇上一杯普罗塞克。饭后只有奶昔和道尔切,这样的大人的使用方法幸福度相当高。
对于不规则生活万岁的自由职业者来说,全天营业的店是宝贝。白天酒和夜咖啡厅都OK,肚子饿了的话也有比萨哦,包容力超群,生火腿和兰布鲁斯科的话往北走,鱼贝类的油炸食品和白葡萄酒的话往南走,一杯和一盘就可以妄想意大利旅行的时间。
“MARKET”的乐趣无可挑剔。最近,町场里也有个人经营的食材店和餐厅里附设的食材卖场等,能买到意大利食材的店也增加了,店主个性渗透的架子,虽然这样很开心,但是光是橄榄油就有几十种意大利面,商品齐全的话其他无法追随。我个人感到高兴的是,芝士和生火腿等的量卖。不想回去做菜时的下酒菜,被邀请人时的加一品帮助。
从20个州收集了360种葡萄酒,其中也有很多熟悉的生产者。拿到瓶子的话,脑海里浮现出制作者的脸、葡萄田的景色、在阳台餐厅桌上吃到的地方色彩丰富的料理。……在这里也有一段时间享受妄想意大利之旅。
因为交通方便,所以总是去了“LA PIAZZETTA”和“MARKET”,但我还是想去名为“LA GRIGLIA”的烤架餐厅。如果可能的话,请给我俯视中央路的阳台座位。采访了几百家银座的店铺,无论是低层还是高层,能看到外面景色的店却意外地少,但是这里很好。而且,简单烤的肉(特别是牛肉)和红葡萄酒是最受欢迎的。
接下来是台湾发的菠萝蛋糕专卖店“SunnyHills ginza”(B2F)。台湾和意大利一样,是近几年来反复旅行的地方,从中国各地的乡土料理到小摊饭、甜点都是挤得满满的,经常去吃。特产的经典果然还是菠萝蛋糕。
从胡同里的个人店到豪华的东西都吃了很多,但是“桑尼Hills”的东西,又小又容易吃,很喜欢。里面的果酱,果实的甜味凝结在一起。面团也有日本制面粉、玻璃杯等优质材料的味道,而且我喜欢香喷喷喷的“烤得很好”的味道。
店里卖和台湾茶的套餐,作为礼物也很方便。我个人认为“桑尼之丘”的菠萝蛋糕可以和酒搭配。比如菠萝蛋糕是木桶成熟的羊羔,苹果蛋糕是卡尔瓦多斯。不可能合。下次想试试。
我第一次买了和台湾茶的套餐。首先是苹果蛋糕和红玉红茶的吉福套餐(5700日元※以下全部含税价格)。发酵茶的浓香和美味,残留着酸甜的苹果果酱的果实感越好。另外,在能够自由旅行的日子之前,在银座能够充分享受“台湾欲望”的场所。
最后是鳗鱼。在日本桥创立70多年的“鳗鱼伊势定”银座店“日本桥鳗鱼伊势定~莲~”(13F)。带着“银座也建了呢”这样轻松的心情去拜访,发现是比想象中还要棒的店。只有GINZA SIX内才有的清爽时尚的装饰,柜台宽敞舒适,窗户也很大。银座的景观和东京广阔的天空交织而成的景色非常好。心情很好,香槟也是这样。
在鳗鱼店吃饭的话,无论如何都是轻量的下酒菜和鳗鱼重结束,但是这里有会席的套餐。一边享受美食和酒,一边悠闲地度过。站在柜台上的厨师长的话,很开心。听了之后,他致力于解开旧的料理书,让不为人知的料理在现在复苏。银座的店里有名的“甲鱼鸡蛋〆”(4180日元)也是这样。
简单易懂地说,虽然是甲鱼的蒸鸡蛋羹,但是大特征是只用酒煮甲鱼,然后把汤汁作为汤汁来使用。也就是说,“红葡萄酒炖牛肉的想法”。筛子的口融化和蒸鸡蛋羹一样,但与淡雅的风味划清界限,浓厚而有力的味道。果然还是放了用满满的酒煮的鱼翅高飞的豪华菜品。当然,宿命性地喝酒,不知不觉就前进了。
鳗鱼的美味不可少。只在GINZA SIX店经营的品牌鳗鱼“伊势鳗鱼”是在三重县和爱知县的交界处养殖的,用木曾三川矿物质丰富的水培育出来的,这次接待客人的女性工作人员认真地向我们说明了这一点。除了名水之外,短时间养殖也是味道的决定性因素。柔软、没有腥味的味道是特别的,蒸、烤的技巧、不太强的调味汁非常适合。
我想起了这一两年来,一边吃着鳗鱼重的“伊势”(8800日元・带肝吸和香菜),一边走在“伊势定”总店所在的日本桥和浅草附近走过的情景。在地方、海外、自由出行的时期,在老字号林立的街道上行走,沉浸在旅心中。以“伊塔利”为契机,久违的GINZA SIX巡逻,意想不到的是追寻个人旅行记忆的时间。
Text: Kei Sasaki Photos: Jiro Ohtani Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
I write about the full range of food, from leading-edge Tokyo restaurants to popular downhome eateries; from fine food to fast food; from bar food to sweets. My love doesn’t discriminate. I eat and drink to enrich my body and soul, then I write about it. All this might suggest the lack of any consistent outlook or preferences. Perhaps. But if you asked me to name just one cuisine, I’d pick Italian. I have several reasons but, above all, it’s my love of wine. Over the past five years, that love has led me to 12 of the country’s provinces. I write a regular column on Italian cooks and cuisine for a magazine. And that concludes my rather wordy preamble.
That’s why I leapt for joy when I heard Eataly had arrived in Ginza this past summer. There’s the MARKET itself, plus three restaurants and a café—it’s one of the largest Eatalys in Japan. I rushed off to visit, of course, and though it had been a little while, I’m now back to making regular trips to GINZA SIX. It’s as simple as that. While I’m at it, today I check out two other places that opened around the same time, SunnyHills and Isesada, for Taiwanese pineapple cake and eel, two of my favorites.
At Eataly (on the sixth floor), my absolute favorite is LA PIAZZETTA. Open all day, from 11:00 in the morning to 11:00 at night, LA PIAZZETTA offers over 30 Italian tapas-style appetizers for around 500 yen per plate—very reasonable. I’m addicted to having a beer in the afternoon on my way home from article research, and in the evening there has to be a glass of prosecco with olives on the side before dinner. Grappa brandy and dessert follows dinner. Can there be a more adult way of enjoying this restaurant? It rates fairly high on the contentment index.
For a freelancer, who, thank goodness, isn’t on a fixed schedule, establishments open all day are especially wonderful. Drinks in the afternoon? Yes. A café at night? Yes. Pizza when you happen to be hungry? Yes. I keep a very open mind. For dry-cured ham and a glass of Lambrusco, head north. For fried fish and white wine, head south. One drink and one dish, with a fantasy Italian vacation as a bonus.
The MARKET’s delights go without saying. There are now more places to buy Italian ingredients, even in smaller neighborhoods, where you can find privately owned grocers and sometimes vendors within actual Italian restaurants. The storeowner’s personality bleeds into the shelves, which is delightful and fascinating in and of itself. But, beyond that, the selection at the MARKET is beyond compare. Here you’ll find dozens of varieties of olive oil alone and a huge assortment of pastas, incomparable to any other store. I love in particular the cheese and dry-cured ham, sold by weight. They’re great as snacks when you have guests over, or when you get home and don’t feel like cooking.
The MARKET offers 360 wines from 20 provinces, many from winegrowers I know well. Holding one of the bottles, immediately I picture the face of the grower, the scenery at the vineyard, the dining table on the terrace, the colorful local cuisine. For a brief moment, I’m enjoying a fantasy holiday in Italy.
Because they’re so easy to access, I tend to go mostly to LA PIAZZETTA and the MARKET. But I also really want to visit LA GRIGLIA, the restaurant and grill. There I’d sit at a terrace table with a view down to Chuo-dori Ave. I’ve researched articles on hundreds of Ginza restaurants, but however high the building rises, very few actually offer a beautiful view of the city. The view here is great. The straightforward grilled meat (particularly the beef) and the red wine are some of my absolute favorites.
Next up is SunnyHills ginza, a pineapple cake shop out of Taiwan on the second belowground floor. As with Italy, I’ve traveled to Taiwan many times over the past several years. From local food from various regions of China to food stalls and sweets, my schedule is always overflowing as I wander about sampling all sorts of things. My go-to souvenir is pineapple cakes.
I’ve eaten these cakes everywhere—whether purchased from a stall up an alley or deluxe upscale establishment. The ones at SunnyHills are dainty and easy to eat, and I’m rather fond of them. The jam inside is the perfect essence of fruity sweetness. The dough is made from Japanese flour, the butter is grass-fed—you can really taste the difference—and the crust has a crunchy, savory, well-baked texture. I adore them.
Up front are cakes packaged with Taiwanese tea, which would make an excellent gift. It occurs to me that pairing Sunny Hills’s pineapple cake with an alcoholic beverage should make for a delightful combination—for example, pineapple cake with barrel-aged rum, or apple cake with Calvados. There’s nothing about these pairs that shouldn’t be pure delight, I find myself thinking. It’s worth a try next time.
Today, I buy a Taiwanese tea and cake set for myself for the first time—the apple cake and Hong Yu tea gift set (5,700 yen; all prices listed after tax). The deep aroma and flavor of fermented tea and slight tart of the jam makes an ideal pairing. Until I’m free to travel abroad once again, I plan to rely on this place in Ginza to satisfy my cravings for culinary experiences from Taiwan.
Last is eel. Founded over 70 years ago in Nihonbashi, Isesada also has a Ginza location, Nihonbashi Unagi Isesada Ren, on the 13th floor of GINZA SIX. “Oh, they have one in Ginza now”—this was about the extent of my reaction. But stepping inside, you immediately get the sense of a wonderful space—a sleek, modern interior befitting GINZA SIX, a spacious counter, large windows. The view is delightful, a Ginza landscape under an expansive sky, at least by Tokyo standards. Feeling especially content, I opt for a glass of champagne.
The fare at eel restaurants typically doesn’t venture farther afield than light appetizers and broiled eel over rice. This restaurant, however, offers full course meals. Take your time as you savor the cuisine and drink. You can also talk to the cook behind the counter. He tells me he delves into old recipe books with the aim of recreating long-forgotten dishes: for example, Soft-Shelled Turtle and Egg (4,180 yen), essentially steamed egg custard with soft-shelled turtle, a dish Isesada Ren is known for.
What makes this version stand out, however, is that the turtle is poached in sake, which then serves as the broth. It’s the same idea as beef cheeks simmered in red wine. The quivering, melt-in-your-mouth texture recalls egg custard, but the flavor is rich and robust as opposed to light and mellow. This luxurious dish receives a further accent in the form of shark’s fin, that’s also been poached in plenty of sake. This dish is quite clearly destined to be paired with a glass of sake; actually, it goes rather too well.
The actual eel, of course, is delicious. As the waitress quite charmingly explains to me, the Ise eel, served only at the GINZA SIX location, is farmed in the mineral-rich waters found at the border between Mie and Aichi prefectures, fed by the Kiso Three Rivers. This famous water, along with the short raising time, is the key to the flavor. This eel is soft and with a unique, non-pungent flavor. The steaming and broiling technique used is superb. The restrained sauce perfectly complements the flavor of the eel.
As I dine on the outstanding Ise broiled eel over rice (8,800 yen with eel liver soup and pickled vegetables), I find myself thinking of certain walks over the past year or two through Nihonbashi, where Isesada has its flagship, and the Asakusa area. During the period we couldn’t travel freely, whether to other parts of Japan or overseas, I would walk these streets lined with old shops and restaurants and take in the atmosphere as a traveler might. Unexpectedly, hearing about Eataly and returning to GINZA SIX after the passage of some time, I find myself reliving fond memories of my own past travels.
Text: Kei Sasaki Photos: Jiro Ohtani Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
佐佐木凯
饮食记者、编辑。通过女性情报杂志编辑部自由。防守范围从东京的美食场景到本地餐厅、食材生产现场。酒店等住宿设施,以葡萄酒为中心,有关酒类的全部采访也很多。意大利共访问了40家酿酒厂。杂志连载有《BRUTUS》、《格鲁曼温故知新》、《dancyu》、《敬启意大利料理》等。网络《料理通信》《ONESTORY》中也执笔。
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