GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
银座打开的新时尚之门 The Door to New Style Opens in Ginza
坪田あさみ 自由编辑
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.108
对于把人生高峰定为60岁的我来说,40多岁还很小。在像意大利夫人一样被太阳晒得的豪华肌肤上,缠上好几层金色项链,用被称为“斜脚”的紧实的腿穿鞋跟。皱纹、白发、凸轮的雀斑(色斑?)甚至还像勋章一样,充满自信地散发出大人的性感。年轻人无法抗衡的魄力和成熟的文化在日本还没有扎根。
不仅仅是小巧的时尚,真正想弄到手的是前面的什么。对于装扮的菲洛索菲绝对不能与生活方式和生活方式、生活方式分开。反之亦然。当然也不能一步一步地到达那个境地,但是作为目标的60岁之前幸运还有时间。
10年后自己想获得什么样的女性形象呢? 想妄想这一点的日子,为了寻找提示,为大人准备的仙境GINZA SIX正好。今天我们决定以意大利品牌束缚的方式逛逛商店。
首先到访的是以南意大利的开朗氛围和地中海为印象的内部装修,散发出个性的“Gente di Mare”(4F)。说起意大利品牌,就会给人一种古典风格的印象,但这是一家汇集了当今意大利风格的休闲品牌,也是日本人容易穿的精品店。以前是以男士为中心的,但是今年2月实现了联合性的店铺。在宽敞舒适的店内,时尚自不必说,杂货、饰品、室内装饰小饰品等也被展示出来,大家都能乐在其中。
新加入的女士专柜。阿斯佩吉、吉尔科罗、杜诺等人气品牌十分丰富,有着适合成人夏季风格的单品。
对于年轻的时候在街头杂志的编辑部工作,之后变得自由了也走在休闲田间的我来说,虽然年龄增长了也不一定要转换成统一的风格。尽管如此,对于40多岁的人来说,单纯的休闲风格的话,脸和身体都不会跟着这样精致的成人休闲品牌相遇是非常珍贵的。感觉时尚的幅度一下子扩大了。
请让我吃一下在冷藏中最受欢迎的伸展棉衣夹克(59400日元※以下全部含税价格)。对于一直以来都穿着长短的男士风夹克的我来说,这种紧凑感和轻便的穿着非常新鲜。果然意大利老板即使是夹克衫也有女人味的轮廓,重新认识到这是卡维的穿法。不要过于认真,无压力的感觉也很好。近来,远程会议等仅仅是上半身就能很好地表现自己的感觉,在家里也能舒适地使用。
店内不仅有衣服,小物件也有意大利品牌。简单的设计和颜色搭配,无论什么衣服都很容易搭配,人气上升中的运动鞋品牌“菲利普模特”(59400日元~)也很多。与运动品牌的休闲感划清界限的样子,能够演绎出大人的自卑感。据说从6月23日开始在GINZA SIX的3楼也将举办POP UP。
对于生活在海边的我来说,披肩(25300日元)等海滩上映照的布类无论有几块都不会感到困扰。玩心和可爱的色调和容易卷起来、轻质感的东西,可以卷在脖子和头上作为遮阳的对策,再放入篮子包中作为重点,非常活跃。在家里洗完之后马上干也正适合夏天。
因为和私人物品的班格也太熟悉了,就这样戴着回去的缓冲区是“兰德西努尔”的,一瓶1,430日元,很合理。多连接也不会太过震撼力,和手表也很容易搭配。给人以细腻的颜色给人的印象。无名指上戴的戒指(3,850日元)虽然也是大尺寸,但还是适合烧过的肌肤,呈现出优雅的休闲感。
除此之外,还可以买到色彩鲜艳的佛罗伦萨厨房杂货和卡普里岛的高级香氛“卡尔图吉亚”等。只要在店内转转就能充分享受异国风情。在找礼物的时候也想确认一下。
接下来,对于需要实用性的鞋子,不管想穿什么时尚,都会随着年龄的增长而放弃的设计,另一方面,也希望能稍微接近感受到作为女人的矜持的意大利女主妇们的脚下,还是今年2月开店的“Gianvito Rossi”(2F)。
父亲是鞋界的Maestro的詹维特罗西担任设计师的人气品牌,但是在东京都内只有这里开设独一无二的店铺。至今为止在精品店和百货商店的鞋柜里买到了一部分收藏品,但是能够感受到独特世界观的这一点,即使不是垃圾粉丝也绝对不能错过的景点。
优雅又有女人味,尽管如此还是有着如今的边缘设计,以及精致精致的手工制作才能穿舒适感的夹维多利亚鞋,以“能跑的高跟鞋”而闻名,在女性杂志上也有不少特辑。光是贝当鞋,小腿的肌肉完全退化了的我,也试穿一下这边的高跟鞋就可以穿。
穿着的是代表品牌的高跟鞋高8.5cm的高跟鞋(86900日元)。与支撑体重的斯蒂利特高跟鞋的纤细美丽的外表相反,安定感超群,完全不滑。穿着高跟鞋走路时没有多余的力量,几乎没有穿高跟鞋的紧张感。“能跑”的评价也令人信服。
我觉得在意大利的石板上用高跟鞋走路比东京的柏油路要辛苦好几倍,但是妙龄的夫人们能够充分现役感地阔步前行,是因为拥有悠久历史的意大利的克拉夫茨曼舰在年轻一代的设计师品牌中也很好地继承了吧。
穿着的是苏威德材质的深色胸罩。虽然辣味但含有细腻感的绝妙色调让人陶醉。明明不甜却很感兴趣。肯定能提高成熟女性的素质。
除了斯威之外,平滑剂、橱窗和3种皮革都有15种以上颜色的变化。色彩鲜艳一时吸引人眼球。一双步决定需要几天。
话虽如此,因为工作关系,日常穿的鞋子很轻松是最优先的我,我也试了几双有安心感的平底鞋。即使平坦也看起来很漂亮的形状,甚至让人想告诉没见过的詹维特先生说布拉博。这是人气的“Precice”的平板型(88000日元)。
牛皮和透明的PVC组合而成的设计,有肌肤脱离感,平底鞋中常见的野暮色。凸点也很聪明。经过多次改良的PVC,脚的接触非常柔软,皮革以外的材料也没有妥协,对高级品牌的信赖感更加高涨。随着气温的上升会变软,光着脚穿的盛夏更舒适吧。
休闲的挂件凉鞋(83600日元)如果碰上夹克衫的话,就会倍感倍增。夏天的铁板颜色·金属银色的污垢不显眼,既时尚又华丽却不选择适合搭配的衣服的万能色。脚踝周围的挂件是橡胶的,所以穿脱没有压力,对于急性子的我来说非常开心。
还展示了以编织napareza的挂件为特征的设计和流行色过于可爱的新作“Toropia”。正是大人的玩心满载!
而且,虽然在日本还不为人所知,但是听说有能够看清本质、重视自己个性的意大利夫人中有人气的包包品牌,还顺便去了1928年创立的米兰老字号“SERAPIAN”(3F)。装饰着鲜艳的“马赛克”墙壁的压倒性之美暂时吸引了人们的目光。
这家店铺是日本唯一一家接受的治疗药物服务,据说可以从几百种朗姆皮皮革组合中挑选自己喜欢的包。第一次碰头会是和意大利的工匠用ZOOM连接进行的,总觉得非常兴奋。虽然距离完成大约需要4个月,但是获得特别绝品的奢侈时间过得恰到好处。
顺便说一下,我坐着的椅子上也装饰着马赛克图案,店内若无其事地充满了豪华感的店内。据说在意大利也有专门订购汽车装修的强者,到底要花多少时间才能让老百姓无法想象。
虽然是这种马赛克图案,但越近越看越被其细腻所震惊。在细小的缝隙中,一根一根地编织成长条状的细长皮革,但是不能露出弯曲和松弛,用力过多的话,底座的皮革就会有裂缝。
米兰的工作室里有4位熟练的克拉夫曼,据说成品中也会加入他们的小游戏心和个性。也就是说,即使是成品,在世界上也有唯一的绝品的幸运人!
现在特别受欢迎的是在小型的形状中可以享受马赛克图案的摩登“PeTra”。马蒂很好,虽然尺寸很小,但是能把身边的东西好好地收纳起来也很好。因为有可以拆卸的挎包,所以在活动的气氛中也能享受到。
单调的马赛克图案也很美。像这样优质的皮革和手艺人技术相结合的话会相当贵,虽然有这样的准备,但是价格设定为147000日元的令人高兴的价格设定。得到了知道真正优质的夫人们的支持。我也立刻添加到了“想要的包列表”。
风雅的小物件种类也很丰富。正好在找钱包的我,很在意粉色和橙色色彩鲜艳的马赛克图案的小型钱包。
据说以日冕为契机诞生的口罩盒子(各15400日元)作为礼物也很受欢迎。吃东西的时候如果突然出现这样俏皮的口罩盒子,就会不由自主地迷上了,但是自己的脑海里浮现出大量的收据,让人忍不住苦笑。离真正的元气还很远。
据说在三十岁左右的人中,很多人都会成为“时尚迷路的孩子”,但我认为这正是因为积累了经验值而了解自己,才容易陷入其中。不是“上了年纪就不适合”,而是“在下一代舞台上升起”的时候,想象自己想成为怎样的自己,这也是打开新时尚之门的契机。我觉得这样的妄想,没有比GINZA SIX更刺激的地方了。寻找理想的10年后的旅程还在继续。
Text: Asami Tsubota Photo: Makiko Obuchi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
I’ve decided life peaks at 60. That means, in my 40s, I’m still a fledgling. With the gorgeous tanned skin of an elegant Italian woman, with any number of gold chain necklaces wrapped around my neck, with supple, toned legs, I’ll slip into high heels. My wrinkles, my gray hair, the freckles—blemishes?—exposed by my low décolleté neckline, I’ll wear as a badge of honor, uncaging with full confidence all the sex appeal an adult has to offer. The young, they can’t compete! Not with such powerful presence, the presence and cultivation of an adult. Yet, this outlook has yet to take root in Japan.
But I’m not after cheap tromp l’oeil. I don’t want that kind of style. I want something else, something true, something that lies beyond. My philosophy of dress is that you can’t completely separate dress from your lifestyle or how you live—or separate how you live from how you dress. Of course, just taking the leap isn’t generally enough to get you all the way there, but my target year is 60. I have time.
Who will I be in ten years? When I ponder on such things, I find there’s no better place to uncover hints than the wonderland of GINZA SIX. Today, I’m going there to focus exclusively on Italian brands and make my rounds at a few stores I like.
I first visit Gente di Mare on the fourth floor, a store shimmering with personality and featuring an interior inspired by the sunny breezes of southern Italy and the Mediterranean. Italian brands conjure austere, classical associations, but Gente di Mare presents a host of Italian casual brands with a very contemporary feel, a mixed-label boutique with easy-to-wear fashions for adults. Starting with a primary focus on men’s clothing, Gente di Mare was renovated this past February to include fashions for all. In addition to apparel, the spacious interior features knick-knacks, accessories, and interior décor for one’s total and complete enjoyment.
I’m in the new ladies part of the store. Aspesi, Circolo, Duno—I see all the popular brands. So many choices for a great, mature summer style!
When I was a young editor at a street style magazine, and even since becoming a freelancer, I’ve strolled the fields of the casual. So I’m not necessary going to convert to conservatism just because I’m older. But once you reach 40, your face and your body, I think, have a hard time keeping up in a simple casual style. That’s why I’m so thrilled when I discover elegant, adult casualwear brands. I feel like my range of style instantly expands.
I put on this stretch cotton jacket (59,400 yen; tax included for all prices) from Circolo, which is, I’m told, a popular standard. I’d been wearing almost all boxy, long-hemmed men’s-style jackets. So, for me, the petite dimensions and easy-breezy comfort feel really fresh. Italianism, I realize once again, is about the silhouette, always aware of its femininity. Even in a jacket like this, one wears the curves. But it’s not too serious. I like the stress-free comfort, too. These days, with so many calls for video conferences, you have to convey that you’re put together and sharp with your upper body alone. Even at home, I see myself totally comfortable in this.
The clothing in the store is Italian, and so are the accessories. There’s a full line of Italian brands. The simple designs and color schemes of shoes from Philippe Model, the increasingly popular sneaker brand (from 59,400 yen), are easy to pair with any style. And the store has a goodly number of them. With a different touch of casualness than a sports brand, the shoes give off an adult sense of classy ease. The brand is also planning a popup shop on the third floor of GINZA SIX starting June 23.
For me, someone who lives by the ocean, I need things that will look good at the beach, like this stole (25,300 yen). You can never have enough of them. The fun, cute pattern and light, easy-to-wrap texture I whirl around my neck or head to protect against the sun or put it in a basket bag as accent—so many ways to use it! Wash it at home, and it dries almost instantly. Perfect for summer.
These buffalo horn bangles from L’Indochineur, which go so well with my own I might just wear them right out of the store, are very reasonably priced: 1,430 yen for one. The impact isn’t excessive even if you wear several at once. They’d go really well with the bangles and watches I already have. The subtle colors look chic. The ring on my ring finger (3,850 yen) is large but fits right in with my tan, creating an elegant casualness.
You can also buy kitchenware from Florence with fun and colorful designs, as well as a luxury fragrance from Capri called Carthusia. Just looking about around the store sets you down amid the swirl of a foreign locale. It’s worth checking out if you’re looking for a gift.
Moving on….as you get older, when you need your shoes to be practical, the designs tend to compromise against any ambitions of chic. But I want to get closer to the styles worn by dignified Italian women who take pride in their femininity. Naturally, then, I visit Gianvito Rossi on the second floor, which opened this past February. The time is ripe!
This popular brand is designed by Gianvito Rossi himself, whose father was a master of Italian footwear. This is the only store in Tokyo dedicated exclusively to this brand. You can get the shoes at other boutiques and department stores, but only part of the collection is available. Here, you get the entire unique spectrum of the brand. It’s a clear can’t-miss spot, even if you aren’t a Gianvito fan (yet).
Elegant, feminine, but not without a contemporary edge, plus so comfortable to wear—it’s all part of the charm and comfort of minutely gauged handmade shoes. Gianvito Rossi are often featured in women’s magazines and renowned as the “pumps you can run in.” I almost always wear flats now, so my calf muscles aren’t what they used to be, but I might be able to wear these pumps, I think. I try some on.
I’m wearing the brand’s iconic pumps with the 8.5-centimeter heels (86,900 yen). The slender stilettos supporting my bodyweight look stunning, but they’re also quite stable. I don’t wobble. They don’t call for any of that extra energy you normally need to walk in high heels, and there isn’t any of the typical sense of tension. You really could go running in them—I really get this now.
Walking in pumps on Italian cobblestone has got to be many times harder than strolling on Tokyo asphalt, but mature Italian women can strut with clear confidence because, I suppose, the long history of Italian craftsmanship has been assiduously passed down to the country’s younger generation of designer brands.
I’m wearing a dark olive pair in suede. I’m ecstatic about the exquisite color, which has bite and nuance in equal measure. They’re not meant to be sweet, but, oh! How sensual! They’ll no doubt give a big boost to your feminine factor as an adult woman.
Along with suede, there’s smooth leather and patent leather—three types in all and over 15 color variations. I find myself entranced by the beautiful colors. I think it would probably take me a few days to choose between them all.
But my first priority is comfort, when choosing shoes I can wear daily for work, so I try on a number of stable flats as well. Though I’ve never met him, I want to shout Bravo! to Gianvito for forms that so look graceful, even as flats. This is the flat version of the popular Plexi (88,000 yen).
The design combines leather and transparent PVC that lets your skin show through. There’s nothing unsophisticated about these flats. The pointed toes are smart, too. This PVC, re-modified many times over to improve it, I’m told, feels really very soft on your feet. It’s typical of this brand not to compromise in the use of any of its materials, not just in the matter of leather. My trust in luxury brands deepens. They get softer, too, when the temperature rises. In mid-summer, when you’re apt to go barefoot, they’re bound to fit even more comfortably.
It’s the same for these casual strap sandals (83,600 yen). Where Gianvito Rossi is involved, the chic factor at least doubles. Metallic silver is absolutely best for summer. It won’t show dirt as much as white. It’s modern, strikingly lovely, and goes with anything in your closet. It’s an all-around performer. The straps wrapping my ankles are rubber, eliminating any stress in putting them on or taking them off. For someone like me, not known for patience, it’s a godsend.
Also on display here is the new Tropea, with their too-cute pop colors and a design accented by Nappa leather braided straps. They’re full of the kind of playfulness an adult can really appreciate.
There’s a brand of handbags I’d heard about, still not widely known in Japan, but popular with Italian women, who have a penchant for the authentic and things that magically highlight their own personalities. So I go to Serapian on the third floor, a venerable Milanese establishment founded in 1928. My eyes are instantly drawn to the striking beauty of the mosaic tile wall adorning the bright interior.
This store is the only Serapian store in Japan to offer a bespoke service. You can make a full order of the bag of your choice in hundreds of combinations of lamb leather. At the first meeting, you’re connected to a craftsperson in Italy via Zoom, which….wow! That sounds exciting! It takes about four months for your order to arrive, but this somehow seems the precise timeline you’d expect for the luxury of getting your hands on a special masterpiece.
Incidentally, the chair I’m sitting in here is also appointed with a mosaic design. A subtle luxury pervades the store. In Italy, apparently, some bold, wealthy souls custom-order the entire leather interiors of their cars. The time and expense involved! Far beyond the realm of the plebian imagination.
The closer I examine this mosaic pattern, the more impressed I am with its intricacy. Long strips of leather are woven through fine slits, without any warpage or slack, which is a delicate process since if the weaving were done with a heavy hand, these strips could break the base leather.
The Milan workshop is staffed by four experienced craftspeople. Even for standard products, they apparently add little touches of whimsy and personality. Which means, in other words, that each item is a one-of-a-kind, with one lucky person to own it!
Especially popular right now is the Petra, which gives you the mosaic pattern in a compact form. The gusset is solid. While the dimensions are small, all your accessories will fit inside. A removable shoulder strap lets you take it with you even when you’re in a more active mood.
There’s nothing more beautiful than the monotone mosaic. I thought this combination of high-quality leather and craftsmanship would command a relatively high price. Actually, the price, at 147,000 yen is delightfully reasonable. I can see why this brand has so many adherents among Italian women who recognize authentic quality. I immediately put it on my I-want-this-bag list.
There’s also an ample lineup of luxe accessories here. Which is perfect, because I’d been looking for a wallet. I can’t help admiring the compact wallets in bright pink and orange and mosaic designs.
This mask case (15,400 yen), fabricated in response to COVID-19, is a popular gift. Can you imagine going out to eat and taking a mask case this chic with you? I think I’m in love. Though in reality I can see myself stuffing a ton of receipts in there until it’s bursting, and I laugh thinking about it. Authentic elegance may still be a long ways off.
It’s often said a lot of people in their 40s lose their way when it comes to style, because they keep wearing the things they once really liked based on the belief that they ‘know’ themselves, without realizing such items don’t really work anymore. It’s a trap that’s easy to fall into. Actually, it’s not that things no longer look good on you as you age, it’s that you have stepped up to the next phase of your life. When this happens, it’s important to imagine the you that you want to be. That’s what opens the doors to a new style. There’s no better place to dream constructively along these lines than GINZA SIX. My journey to discover the ideal me ten years from now continues.
Text: Asami Tsubota Photos: Makiko Obuchi Edited: Yuka Okada(81)
坪田あさみ
在出版社工作后,作为自由编辑者独立。以成年人代的女性时尚杂志为首,参与书籍、目录、网页内容等的企划、编辑、写作。玛丽苏尔在线上正在连载《时尚与生活和时常名品》。蛋卷三明治很受欢迎的逗子咖啡店“圣达乌纳东京蛋包饭”也经营着。
Instagram: @asamit1201