GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
享受精炼和奢华乐趣的银座能量景点 A Power Spot in Ginza: Filling Up on Refined Luxury
藤冈笃子
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.86
9月初,闷热的东京也差不多到了秋天的气息。在欧洲的收藏品采访之前,先看看收藏品?窥视了GINZA SIX。GINZA SIX是一大排出的豪华时装店鳞次栉比的GINZA SIX,简直就像在巴黎的阿维纽蒙特尼和米兰的蒙特纳波雷奥内漫步的乐趣。作为时尚记者,想记住的新信息会映入眼帘,也能找到很多不由得想要的东西。这是一个充满诱惑和奢侈体验的一个半小时的短跑开始。
首先到访的是常春藤书店。
常春藤银座书店是书的殿堂,因其独特书籍而闻名的常春藤银座书店,无论何时都非常喜欢。特别是GINZA SIX,想去的是这本写真书的专柜。特制的限定版总是放着什么,拜托的话以当天对应的番场文章为首,戴着白色手套的照片接待员会带着细致的解说翻页。
这次的目标是英国摄影家戴维·贝利伊的写真集(390000日元※以下全部不含税价格)。为了让这个巨大的尺寸更容易看,更能享受,特别订购的“Mark Newson”设计的桌子上(竟然写真集和桌子都是套装出售的),装饰着摄影角的入口。立志于时尚,眺望着黑白的写真集,在伦敦憧憬时尚的遥远时代,戴维·贝利伊是我的英雄。在阶级制度根深蒂固的英国,鱼店的儿子作为顶级摄影师称霸世界时尚杂志,成为亚文化的主角,正是60年代的成功故事,旧的体制社会发出声音而崩溃,是伦敦流行文化的体现者。
从60年代到现在,按时代划分的编辑,把那个时代闪耀的名流用黑白尖锐,有时幽默地剪切下来的照片,无论看多少次都不会厌倦。与其说是看了几个小时,不如说是泉水一样涌现出想象力,不但没有尽,照片甚至连被摄体的人生。
戴维·贝利伊的恋人同时称霸60年代的超级模特吉恩·施林普顿。在日本,茨基更是有名的,但是在世界范围内,当时的时尚杂志中,吉恩绝对是一大的。据说那个美国VOGU的名主编黛安娜·布里兰,在吉恩全身湿透后赶到初次见面时,曾说过“嘛,是完美的可爱孩子啊”。就连护照上的照片都被称为完美美丽的史恩格伦敦的传奇缪斯。戴维特拍摄的和吉恩的时尚照片中,有无数的杰作,其中一部分被收录在这本写真集里。戴维·贝利伊与吉恩分手后,与卡特里努·德努·德努夫结婚,之后分手。
啊~这里也有费德里科・渡轮尼(导演)和马斯特朗尼,这里有杰努・莫罗!!每次翻页,戴维的精华都会洒出来,无论看到哪个肖像,都会不由得露出笑容。一直盯着看,时间快到了…被强迫,下一页。
时尚与亚文化有着很强的联系,照片、音乐、文学、艺术、舞蹈等各种各样的要素刺激着创作者。构思源之一是60年代、70年代,象征着那个时代的人物,用适合角色的剪发方式的照片,比被摄体更能表现出本质,有时也会预测事态。目前正在上映的话题电影《汪星人・好莱坞》中出现的“沙伦•泰特事件”(1969年在他的丈夫罗曼•波兰斯基导演的豪宅里,男友在伦敦拍摄过程中,与怀孕8个月的沙伦一起被杀害的女演员杰尼斯・宿务犯人与卡尔特集团的教祖查理·曼森(音译)家族,也让人感受到嘻哈化的时代背景。
改变心情,接下来是意大利的豪华鞋品牌“GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI”。
在米兰收藏时,蒙特纳波莱昂街道热闹非凡的时候,就会散发着芳香的香味,甚至想一直保持着居民般的表情在大街上站着说话。其中人山人海的是“朱泽佩扎诺蒂”的时装店。在GINZA SIX的时装店里,也摆放着奢华的爱鞋子。
说到扎诺蒂,就是这个吧! 金色的金属跟鞋上刻有刻印的凹凸花纹的白色靴子。如此华丽的“白×黄金”组合,看起来很简单,是因为朱塞佩·扎诺蒂的魔法。冬天穿白色靴子的美感。如果有这双鞋的话,无论什么样的穿法都会变成时尚的米兰夫人风格。
朱泽佩萨诺蒂的魔法之二。这种光辉才是这个品牌的精髓。在蒙特纳波莱昂的展厅举办的展览会上,每个季节都不可欠缺,提出建议的是装点着绚烂脚下的珠宝鞋(上图是220000日元)。就像手手指上戴着钻石戒指一样,脚下也想用优美的珠宝来装扮。这也是让周围的人屏住呼吸的华丽感。适合红地毯和晚霞的大朵花的光辉在脚腕上闪闪发光。什么样的人穿什么样的礼服搭配这双鞋呢? 光是想象一下就会情绪高涨。这是特别时刻准备的珠宝鞋。
朱泽佩萨诺蒂魔法之三。终于要输给诱惑。在“只要尝试一下就行了”这个词,在Thenoti的阵容中,选择了相对城市青年的黑色平底鞋(105000日元)。指甲尖上有银色线条的丝带,扎诺蒂的香味很浓。与当时穿的毛衣和普锐斯裙这一自己的经典服装不是也很合适吗?…。不仅仅是晚饭,普通的街道服装也能穿得很漂亮。扎诺蒂的魅惑世界。
意大利品牌还是牢牢抓住女性的心。接下来是FENDI(芬迪)的时装店。
罗马毛皮老字号芬迪。GINZA SIX也在银座中央路旁的柜台设有时装店。1925年创业,5个女儿成为后继者,发展成更加时尚的味道,现在由第三代斯席尔维亚·芬迪负责设计领域。1965年与弱冠27岁的卡尔·拉格菲尔德签约,长达54年来的合作是芬迪历史的“华”。遗憾的是,在今年2月芬迪的收藏展前两天,卡尔·拉格菲尔德去世了,但直到最后还是用电话发出了对收藏的指示。这是一件意想不到的事情。赞美卡尔的伟业,表演最后播放的大卫·罗伯特的《HERO》至今仍留在我耳目中。这次访问时装店的理由之一是,听到了1981年卡尔亲笔书写的“文字看起来美丽的书法,接近日本的书法)”的FF标志“卡利图形”被商品化后展开。从毛皮外套到包的背带都有! 就像卡尔最后的留言一样,高雅、有存在感的FF标志“卡里菲尔德”,一个是绝对想拥有的卡尔·拉格菲尔德遗留给后世的礼物。
卡尔·拉格菲尔德华丽的素描,在通往VIP房间的电梯上也装饰着,让人感受到和芬迪的强烈羁绊。卡尔特有的奇妙配色和流丽的素描给芬迪注入了永远的生命。
现在拥有超高人气的包包“Pikabuxlight”中出现了鳄鱼制作的大尺寸(3500,000日元)。文件也加入了面包车,工作上使用起来方便的大小,不由得伸手。明亮的棕色鳄鱼,无论什么样的风格都很适合,可以广泛使用。被设计成惊人的轻量,不愧是工匠技术闪闪发光的芬迪特有的梅森的深奥。
依旧人气很高的是芬迪历史的FF标志。1969年发表了毛皮大衣的Pletaporute,以此前一直使用在衬里的FF标志,之后成为了象征品牌的图标。以人气包的头巾为首,提款和打印使用,还有作为毛皮语调被用作各种各样的道具。这个大衣(516000日元),以华丽幽默的FF logo的毛皮口袋为重点。
如果来到芬迪的话,还是想把梅森的图标——最高级的毛皮弄到手身上。…。被柔软的毛脚的触感包围着,身心都能得到治愈的幸福。这样想的话,女性谁都会有共鸣吧。据说精心穿的话能拥有100年,亲子三代穿后还会回到土里。在4楼的VIP房间里,一边接受专属毛皮专家的建议,一边通过各种各样的手看,真是幸福的时刻。这个黑白的夹克(23681000日元),格调高雅的牛仔裤也很搭。话虽如此,使用最高级的鲍勃猫,将其融入到这种休闲的设计中,被具备品味和技术两轮的芬迪的精彩所吸引。
在短时间内可以访问好几家米兰和巴黎的豪华品牌的最高峰,细致周到的接待客人的态度,不仅仅是商品品质之高,还能品尝到老字号的潜力。这不仅仅是海外有名的街道,在GINZA SIX上也能体验到的稀有体验。我相信品牌的真正力量在于不仅仅是技术、设计,包括时装店的对应在内的综合实力之高。能够切实感受到其品质之高的GINZA SIX,光是漫步,就能享受到豪华的气场,或许就是银座的能量聚合地。
Text:Atsuko Fujioka Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
It’s hot and humid here in Tokyo in early September, but signs of fall are beginning to seep into the air. Soon I’ll be on my way to Europe to cover Fashion Week, but today I chose to stroll around GINZA SIX—lined with luxury boutiques displaying cruise collections, Japan specials, and more, all arranged side by side—and maybe get an advance peek. It feels much like taking a stroll down Avenue Montaigne in Paris or Via Monte Napoleone in Milan. As a fashion journalist, I’m always on the lookout for new information. There’s so much here to catch the eye. I feel I want to pick things up without thinking and find so much I would personally like to own. And in this way begins a short hour-and-a-half trip filled with luxury and enticements.
I first visit Ginza Tsutaya Books, a palace of books.
The GINZA SIX location in particular is known for its collection of unique titles. It’s my perpetual favorite. Whenever I’m here, I browse the photography section, where you’ll always find special limited editions. If you inquire, a store’s white-gloved photography concierge will turn the pages for you while providing helpful explanations. My concierge today is Fumiaki Banba.
On this occasion, I’m after a photography collection from the English photographer David Bailey (390,000 yen; all prices listed before tax). To make it easier to leaf through and enjoy this huge book, it’s displayed on a custom desk designed by Marc Newson (amazingly, the book and desk are sold together!), which is positioned at the entrance of the photography section. In the distant past, seeking out and pining for fashion and London, I’d gaze intently into his black-and-white photos, all but boring holes through them. David Bailey was my hero in the London of that distant time.
In Britain, when the class system remains fairly entrenched, a fishmonger’s son conquered the world’s fashion magazines as the industry’s top photographer and became a major figure of the counterculture—truly a 60s success story. He was the embodiment of pop culture in London at a time when the establishment was tumbling down.
The book is divided by era, from the 1960s to the present. The photos of the leading celebrities of the day are sharp black-and-whites, sometimes whimsically cropped. You look at them again and again and never tire. Or, perhaps it’s better to say, you can study them for hours. They’re materials from which the imagination springs; will the source ever run dry? The photos almost speak the lives of their subjects.
Jean Shrimpton, supermodel and erstwhile lover of David Bailey, was also a conqueror of the 60s. Twiggy may have been more famous in Japan, but globally, in the fashion magazines of the time, Shrimpton was by far the more prominent figure. When Shrimpton rushed in, soaking wet, and met Diana Vreeland, famed editor-in-chief of American Vogue, for the first time, Vreeland reportedly cried out, “Adorable!” Shrimpton was the legendary muse of Swinging London; even her passport photo was perfect, it’s said. Among the fashion shots of Shrimpton taken by Bailey that graced magazine covers are innumerable masterpieces. You’ll find a selection of these in this volume. After his relationship with Jean Shrimpton ended, David Bailey married Catherine Deneuve; they later divorced…
Oh, here’s Federico Fellini, the director, and Marcello Mastroianni, and here’s Jeanne Moreau! Every time I turn the page, I encounter, once again, brimming from every page, the essence of Bailey’s vision. Every portrait I look at makes me smile. I could study each one forever—but the time, the time… I feel rushed and turn the pages reluctantly.
Fashion has strong ties to counterculture: photography, music, literature, art, dance—all these modes of expression stimulate creative individuals. The 60s and 70s are themselves a fount of inspiration. The photos that transformed the symbolic figures of these decades into icons express something beyond their subject matter. At times, they presaged what was to come. The much-discussed film Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, currently in theaters, takes up the 1969 murder of actress Sharon Tate, in which Sharon, eight months pregnant, and several friends, including her former fiancé, celebrity hair stylist Jay Sebring, were murdered in the mansion of the director Roman Polanski, Tate’s husband, while he was away in London shooting a film. Tate hadn’t been married to Polanski for long. The photo here shows them when they were perhaps at their happiest, before tragedy struck. She was murdered by members of the Manson Family, a cult led by Charles Manson. The photo gives a sense of this historical backdrop, a time when the hippy movement began tilting towards cultism.
Needing a change of pace, I next go to Giuseppe Zanotti, a gorgeous Italian shoe brand.
During Milan Fashion Week, there’s great vibrancy and glamour on Via Monte Napoleone. Perfume drifts through the air. I could chat there on the streets forever, as if I actually lived there. There’s an unending stream of people at the Giuseppe Zanotti boutique in particular. At the GINZA SIX boutique as well, you’ll find rows of iconic shoes that express peak glamour.
This is what Zanotti is all about! These white boots have metallic gold heels with a patterned uneven surface, as if they’d been embossed. Giuseppe Zanotti’s magical powers of sophistication give a simple look to this stunning combination of white and gold. It’s chic to wear white boots in winter. Wearing these, no matter what else you wear, will transform you into a Milanese sophisticate.
Giuseppe Zanotti’s second magical power is to make sparkle itself the essence of the brand. Without fail, at the showroom in Via Monte Napoleone each season, he sets out jeweled shoes that confer brilliance upon every step (above photo: 220,000 yen). As diamond rings are for fingers, these shoes are exquisite jewelry for the feet. They’re gorgeous in a way that makes the people around you catch their breath. The large, dazzling flower, apparently created to grace the red carpet or a special evening occasion, sparkles on the ankle. Who would wear these shoes? What dress would they wear? The thought buoys my spirits. You’ll want to keep these jeweled shoes for special occasions.
This is the third magical power of Giuseppe Zanotti. I find myself succumbing to temptation. “Feel free to try a pair on,” says an encouraging voice. With that, I choose a pair of black flats (105,000 yen) from the Zanotti lineup, more or less intended for ordinary outings. There’s a ribbon of rhinestones on the toe; there’s an intense sense of Zanotti’s spirit in the air. By chance, they go pretty well, I think, with the sweater and pleated skirt I happen to be wearing, my signature look. I discover the shoes look great not just in evening dress, but with the clothes in which I regularly venture out into the world. The enticing world of Zanotti is a knockout.
Italian brands really grab hold of a woman’s heart. And, as if drawn by magic, I go next to Fendi.
Fendi, a long-standing proprietor of fur and leather goods, operates a boutique in the corner of GINZA SIX along Ginza Chuo Avenue. Founded in 1925, the shop was passed down to the founder’s five daughters, who expanded it with modern styles. Currently, its creative director is Silvia Fendi, from the family’s third generation. Karl Lagerfeld joined the company in 1965 at the tender age of 27: this 54-year collaboration is the great glory of Fendi’s history. Regrettably, Karl Lagerfeld passed away this year in February, two days before Fendi was to show its collection. He reportedly was giving instructions over the phone until the very end. It happened suddenly; no one expected it. David Bowie’s “Heroes” played at the end of the show to honor Karl’s prodigious achievements. It still rings in my ear. One reason I came to Fendi today was I’d heard that a number of items incorporated the FF logo based on the calligraphy handwritten by Karl in 1981. And, indeed, from fur coats to handbag buckles, this turns out to be true! It’s somewhat like Karl’s last statement. Highly refined and with an affecting presence, this FF calligraphy is perhaps a gift Karl Lagerfeld has bequeathed us. I definitely want something with this logo.
His gorgeous sketches are displayed in the elevator leading to the VIP room. The strong bond with Fendi is palpable. His distinctive kitsch color schemes and flowing sketches breathe eternal life into the brand.
Peekaboo X-Lite, a hot handbag line at the moment, is now available in a large-sized crocodile leather bag (3,500,000 yen). The large dimensions make it ideal for carrying numerous documents, and it looks versatile enough for work. I reach for it without thinking. The bright, brown crocodile leather goes well with any style. One could carry it with all sorts of looks, and it’s surprisingly light. The splendid craftsmanship gives a strong sense of Fendi’s depths as a fashion maison.
The FF logo, an integral part of Fendi’s history, remains as popular as ever. Initially used in the liners, it first appeared in 1969 with Fendi’s prêt-à-porter fur coat collection, becoming an icon of the brand thereafter. Starting with the popular Baguette handbag, it’s woven into various items in Jacquard fabric and prints and occurs as a fur accent as well. This tailored coat (516,000 yen) is accented with gorgeous, whimsical fur pockets bearing the FF logo.
Anyone coming to Fendi would want to run their hands through the maison’s iconic top-of-the-line fur. Wrapping yourself in soft fur exercises a soothing magic over both body and mind. It’s a kind of happiness to which all women can surely relate. If you’re reasonably careful, the fur will last 100 years, I’m told. Three generations will wear it, after which it returns to the earth. In the fourth floor VIP room, I get advice from the fur expert on hand. Seeing various furs and running your hands through them is the ultimate experience. The refinement of this black and white blouson (23,681,000 yen) makes it perfect, of course, for special evenings; but it would also go surprisingly well with a pair of sporty jeans. Having said this, the use of high-grade bobcat fur in a casual design speaks to Fendi’s wonderful combination of sensibility and technique. The brand feels all the more appealing.
GINZA SIX offers the opportunity to visit, in a short span of time, the pinnacles of Milanese and Parisian luxury brands. The customer service is thoughtful and attentive. It’s a real pleasure to experience the underlying strength of these long-standing brands—brands that are about so much more than the quality of their products. It’s a rare experience one can experience not just on famed shopping boulevards overseas, but at GINZA SIX. The true strength of a brand isn’t just technique, and it isn’t just design. I’m convinced it’s the high standard for overall capabilities, including the service customers receive at its boutiques. You can experience this exalted quality at GINZA SIX while strolling about and soaking up this aura of luxury, as if you were at a power spot in the heart of Ginza.
Text:Atsuko Fujioka Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
藤冈笃子
经过国际羊毛事务局(IWS)女装时尚协调员,作为时尚记者开始活动。朝日新闻、每日新闻、AERA、FIGARO japon等,从报纸到时尚杂志,在广泛的媒体上执笔。另外,连载不仅限于25ans、GINGER、GIZELE等日本时尚杂志,还刊登在中国版的Ray和Glamorous等杂志上。负责信息知识辞典《伊米达斯》的时尚领域的执笔编辑,手机版Imidas(http://imidas.jp)中解说时尚用语的《花之轮》非常受欢迎。简单易懂地解说专业用语的原稿有公认,家电、化妆品等不同行业企业、团体等的演讲也很多。每年举办两次的“藤冈笃子时尚潮流速报研讨会”,以编辑、服装买家和设计师为中心获得了很高的评价,是日本第一的动员数。著作《买主变了,卖方就会改变》(日本能率协会)。社团法人日本流行色协会时尚顾问。日法协会理事。2016年开始,就任神户艺术工科大学艺术工学部时尚设计专业客座教授。
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