GINZA SIX EDITORS
在GINZA SIX上,围绕着“香味”旅行 Fragrant Travels at GINZA SIX
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.104
首先前往的是位于2F的“Jo Malone London”。这是众所周知的伦敦的生活方式和品牌。1994年在伦敦诞生,以哥伦布为首,通过巴士&身体和家庭收藏品等,不断提出被香味包围的简单而精炼的丰富生活方式。我喜欢“JoMalone London”的独创香味,喜欢使用蜡烛,这次的目标是香水。会遇到什么样的香味呢?胸口很高。
无论哪一种,都是因为香味而烦恼的,但还是购买了“暗沉酒吧&姜汁利”的哥伦布(100ml JPY¥21500/50ml JPY¥15000※以下全部不含税价格)。这是从日本传统的香道中受到启发的系列,其特征是伽罗放松的香味。与顶级笔记本、心笔记、最后的笔记本不同香味的表情也是魅力之一。这次只买了这一瓶,“JoMalone London”的项目叫“圣佩林”,“香味重叠”就可以了。下次想瞄准手霜。
先去别墅书的区域。这个书架上摆着店里最珍贵的标题。打开玻璃门,总觉得有点怀念的香味扑鼻而来。排列着的是约瑟夫·沃斯的《Coyote》中毕加索的《A Los Tros》、《松本俊介素描》…无论哪一本都是总有一天想拿到的好书。光是看着装订和标题就觉得很幸福。
享受伦敦产的各种香味,接触美丽的复古书籍,购买与香味有关的书籍,品尝真正的香料印度料理。虽然只有3家店铺,但是在GINZA SIX上知道了新的“香味”,很享受。但是,在GINZA SIX中,咖啡沙龙“GRAND CRU CAF¥GINZA”中,还有很多能遇到红酒店“Enoteka”、抹茶的“辻利”和“diptyque”的新“香味”的店。接下来在哪个店能遇到什么样的香味呢?围绕着“香味”的旅途似乎还在继续。
Text: Sohei Oshiro Photos: Mitsutaka Omoteguchi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
Spending so much time at home can leave you feeling melancholy. To get by, I’ve found some respite in fragrance: the elegant aroma of perfumes, the nostalgic smell of old books, the gentle scent of detergents and fabric softeners, the pungent aroma of spicy curry, the delectable bouquet of wine and whisky. Even while homebound, I’ve discovered from day to day a variety of scents, which for me provided a subtle source of enjoyment in an otherwise featureless locked-down life.
My interest in fragrance has only blossomed since. I want to learn about, buy, try, and enjoy even more scents and aromas. And since we can now venture out, why not go to the ultimate retail complex in the ultimate Tokyo district? Today, my fragrant travels take me to GINZA SIX.
I go first to Jo Malone London on the second floor, a London-based lifestyle brand you’re certainly familiar with. Launched in 1994, the brand presents spare, sophisticated, enriching lifestyles with fragrance—through colognes, above all, but also bath and body products and its home collections. I like Jo Malone’s creative scents. I love their candles. But my goal today is cologne. I’m excited to see what I might encounter.
At the in-store testing bar, the attendant carefully explains each fragrance to me. The best-selling English Pear ＆ Freesia is, just as the name suggests, the scent of fresh pears and freesia. I’m also introduced to strange bedfellows, like Wood Sage ＆ Sea Salt and Poppy ＆ Barley. I’m astonished at the scents that emerge from the combinations!
With so many wonderful fragrances, I’m not sure which to choose. I end up buying the Dark Amber ＆ Ginger Lily cologne (100 ml, 21,500 yen / 50 ml, 15,000 yen; all prices listed before tax), a series characterized by a relaxing, agarwood aroma and inspired by traditional Japanese incense ceremony called Kodo. From top note to heart note to last note, the expression of a fragrance changes, which simply adds to its appeal. I bought just one bottle today, but with Jo Malone products, the practice of scent pairing—combining fragrances—is perfectly acceptable. I’ll look for some hand cream the next time.
The bag is the familiar cream-colored box with black ribbon. Come to think of it, the black ribbon is a bold move. Carrying with a good scent in one hand, I head to Ginza Tsutaya Books on the sixth floor.
I love this bookstore for diverse and sundry reasons. One is their vintage art book and photo collection. Today, while enjoying that great old book smell, I plan to go look for books on fragrance.
First up is the vintage book area. This shelf features some of the store’s most treasured titles. With the opening of the glass doors, the scent of nostalgia comes wafting forth. There’s Joseph Beuys’ Coyote, Picasso’s A Los Toros, a book of Shunsuke Matsumoto’s drawings—all landmark volumes I’d be overjoyed to own someday. Just looking at the bindings and titles is a delight.
I’m particularly interested in Shinro Otake. The store has a special edition of Kasuba no otoko: Morocco nikki (“Kasbah Man: Morocco Diary”) (145,000 yen), published by Kyuryudo in 1994. What’s inside, of course, is remarkable. But the craft and workmanship and radical design of the binding is almost as remarkable (it’s too bad I can’t show it to you more clearly—copyrights!). It’s edited by Kyoichi Tsuzuki, who worked at POPEYE and BRUTUS in their heyday and won the Kimura Ihei Award for ROADSIDE JAPAN (Chikumashobo). As a lowly editor working in print media, how great would it be, I think, to create an amazing book like this someday.
In the fashion magazine section, I find my magazine, VOSTOK! All the back issues are here, and the bookstore provides some really nice captions. Thank you, thank you, thank you to everyone at Ginza Tsutaya Books! With print media, when you publish a magazine on your own dime, bookstores like this and their staff can really help. I wanted to create a Japanese original, a fashion magazine that wasn’t a pale copy of overseas fashion magazines. And that magazine is VOSTOK. I put my heart and soul into every issue, like there’s no tomorrow, so it moves me no end to see every single issue on display here. The cover shots, incidentally, from left to right, are by Yoshiyuki Okuyama, Kyoji Takahashi, and Mayumi Hosokura.
Located in the kitty corner of the fashion magazine section is an area with books on scents and fragrances. From encyclopedias of herbs and whole spices to catalogs of famous perfumes published by the major fashion houses—row after row of a diversity of fragrance books. Of course Tsutaya would have a lineup like this. Today, I buy two books: Chokoshi no techo (“A Perfumer’s Notebook”) by Shoji Nakamura, who was a perfumer at Shiseido, and L’Herbier Parfumé, an encyclopedia of aromatic plants with commentary by 38 perfumers from Grasse in southern France. They’re both profoundly absorbing tomes. I have a feeling I’ll be referring to them for a long time.
After applying and learning about fragrance, it’s time to eat some! So, lastly, I go to Tamarind, an Indian restaurant also located on the sixth floor. The Indian food most people know, dishes like nan and tandoori chicken, comes from northern India. This restaurant has its roots in Mandala, a restaurant famed for its northern Indian cuisine established in Jinbocho in 1986. The owner, who’s been to India close to 50 times, has opened the rare restaurant in Tokyo where you can enjoy both northern and southern Indian dishes. You encounter the great spicy aromas even at the entrance.
It’s not unusual for Japan’s Indian restaurants to have Nepalese cooks. In contrast, Tamarind has five full-time cooks from northern and southern India, suggesting its endeavor to represent genuine Indian cuisine. The kitchen is open to view. Part of the fun here is viewing the unfamiliar cooking implements and methods.
My first three dishes quickly arrive. The Prawn Amritsari (980 yen) is spicy prawn fritters; Rumali Roti (440 yen), which means ‘handkerchief bread’ in Hindi, is, just as the name indicates, bread folded like a handkerchief. The technique of the cooks is marvelous and fascinating. Finally, Malabar Fish Curry (1,580 yen), from a coastal region in southern India.
One bite of the Prawn Amritsari fills my mouth with the flavor of prawns and the flavor and aroma of spices. The fish curry is great, too—the fresh coconuts really work well. The Rumali Roti is just as impressive, more flavorful than regular nan.
Last to appear is the Rava Dosa (1,580 yen), a crispy crepe filled with lentils. Its huge dimensions are a visual treat. The crepe lets you experience a range of spices, starting with tamarind, the southern Indian fruit that gives the restaurant its name. The aroma and flavor are both firsts for me. So many dishes available only at Tamarind…I’ll definitely be back soon.
So I’ve taken in fragrances from London, handled beautiful vintage books, purchased books on aromas, and relished the authentic spicy flavors of Indian food. In just three stops, right here at GINZA SIX, I’ve learned about and enjoyed new scents and fragrances. Still more places at GINZA SIX remain to be discovered in this odyssey of new aromas, places like the coffee salon Grand Cru Café Ginza, wine shop Enoteca, green tea proprietors Tsujiri, and Diptyque. Where to go next? My fragrant travels stretch to the horizons.
Text: Sohei Oshiro Photos: Mitsutaka Omoteguchi Edit: Yuka Okada（81）
编辑。1988年出生于冲绳县宫古岛。从学生时代开始在《HUgE》(讲谈社)打工,经过《Them magazine》(Righters)的编辑,2018年独立。2019年3月创刊《VOSTOK》。株式会社CHIASMA代表。2020年12月发行了《VOSTOK》Vol.004。Instagram GINZASIX_OFFFICIAL正在发布