GINZA SIX EDITORS
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GINZA SIX上毅然实行梦中的“珠宝节”! Venturing to Dream Jewelry at GINZA SIX
爱甲悦子
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.15(Jewelry&Watch)
每年1月和7月两次在巴黎自动时装周最后一天举行的惯例“珠宝节”。凡巨蛋广场的名门珠宝都打开了大门,向世界各国的记者、买家、VIP顾客展示世界最高峰的高珠宝,这是世界上最豪华的一天。我们编辑在van Dome附近来来往往,或是在会场上闲逛。从作为据点的德国暂时回国的现在,听说在银座也能感受到和那个珠宝节相似的特别的高涨感,于是就去了GINZA SIX。
首先,直接前往引领自动时装周的“Dior”。日本第一家旗舰店表现迪奥世界观的旗舰店“豪斯奥尔金扎”。在1楼的深处,有想要的精细珠宝和手表的收藏品。投影着艺术总监维克多瓦·杜·卡斯特拉纳的审美意识的、充满想象力的窗口显示器。以珠宝为主角的迷你宫殿,光是望着就感觉被吸引到了妖精尾的世界。
穆修迪奥作为幸运的护身符,总是躲在口袋里的星星主题。星型风配图设计的“玫瑰德文”收藏品,是值得爱的NEXT护身符珠宝的预感!
粉色蛋白的青鳉鱼旋转的“玫瑰德文”环(185000日元以下全部不含税价格),在考虑是否适合重叠的情况下,让高珠戒指的压倒性气场吸走了。每次缠绕在手指上都会有雕刻的造型美。这个大胆的音量,让高贵的翡翠和帕拉伊巴类型托尔马斯林等演奏出的完美的彩色玻璃让人着迷。
至高的kirameki效果让人心情一下子变得华丽起来,去了4楼的“迪奥拜皮埃尔艾尔玛”。皮埃尔艾尔梅监修的美丽甜点,与“Dior Mezon”的美丽桌子服装一起享受的豪华空间,打造出特别的布莱克! 10点30分~13点30分限定的“Ptydejuniset”(2400日元)可以提供薄饼、面包馅饼、布里奥什、水果、格拉诺拉等,十分充实。
虽然吃了美味的早餐,但是从11月开始的季节限定甜点“巴什兰玫瑰、弗兰沃斯、莱奇”(2700日元)的甜诱惑是无法抗拒的。玫瑰熏香的冰&弗兰沃斯的索尔贝,清新的雷奇被蛋白和投诉包围着,像盛开的花一样美丽。温度与口感、风味不同的对比在舌头上相互融合,真是皮埃尔・艾尔梅独有的“味觉科学”和钦佩!
这是一个与法国代表性的两个品牌感性共鸣的咖啡厅空间。美食家和美食家聚集在一起也是非常令人信服的。咖啡馆的旁边是日本唯一能买到迪奥的家庭收藏品,备受瞩目的“Dior Mezon”。咖啡馆使用的茶具类和色彩鲜艳的花器等,作为给重要的人送礼物也很受欢迎。
我也很怀念能与珠宝匹敌的手表的光辉,接下来的Destination是前往在VDome广场也设有时装店的名门Manu传真“积家”。
以前是设计至上主义的我,在漫长的手表摄影和执笔的过程中,也会感觉到运用精致的机构的手表有时比钻石还要美。一进入积家的店内,就被笨蛋水晶包围,被暴露半永久运动的独特放置钟“阿特摩斯568 by马克·纽森”(2,900,000日元)吸引住了。以气温的变化为动力源(仅用1次温度变化提供2天的工作能量),寄宿着自动半永久卷起的秘密机构,宛如现代艺术一般的豌豆。
复古×高时尚风格是自己的固定风格,所以首先请让我先试穿一下带有褶皱风味的双色“水平索・旺・科尔德内”(815000日元)。端正的几何形态,小巧的模样飘浮着的正统派女士风格的气氛,即将击倒。……。
突然,今天访问积家的最大关心的是,可以将名作《水平索》进行分类化的服务——“工作室水平”。以等级索诞生85周年为契机,从2016年开始的自定义制服务,可以自由地复制反转箱背面的钻石的颜色、素材和挂件。据说明,可以将皮斯拉兹利和阿文楚林等宝石放在钻石上,根据个人喜好实施钻石。
这里GINZA SIX的时装店在iPad上进行订单对应,所以马上尝试。一边膨胀着快乐的妄想,一边放松心情,表情就会随心所欲。因为定制的组合模式数量接近无限,所以在与单一的水平索相遇的难得机会让人心动不已。
孤高的“珠宝节”也快要结束了。闪耀的最后一章是《凡克里夫与阿佩尔》。拥有日本最大的卖场面积505.5平方米,由3层构成的广大时装店。只有梅森才有的充满诗情的世界观和拥有黄金手的工匠们的传承技能,对于公私都一直被吸引着的我这样的人来说,这里是闪耀的圣殿。
不坐电梯走楼梯的话,就好像去了巴黎雅致的阿帕尔特曼一样的豪华氛围。墙壁上有佛匠用金箔和手绘的图案做成的花的样子。除此之外,装饰在墙壁上的温莎公爵夫人的肖像,以及存在于存档中的设计画等。
2楼是婚礼收藏齐聚一堂的楼层。高端的婚礼环排列的里面角是坐在沙发上放松的空间。从GINZA SIX直接连接,入口的门总是打开的,即使是一个男性也能毫无顾虑地顺路去。
目前憧憬的是,请允许我剪掉“布顿多尔”收藏的耳环(3,175000日元)和戒指(2,100,000日元)。将1930年代登场的Mezon的重现主题“佩埃特(跨度)”重新解释成现代的流丽社团。卡内里安和母亲珍珠、粉色金色描绘了优美色彩的对比,社团主题在耳边,舒服地摇曳着。在刺激女人心的醇厚曲线美中,沙沃尔菲尔在呼吸。如果能实现的话,我想用这个光辉填满自己的宝石箱。
说到范克里夫&阿佩尔的剪裁,就是充满幸福感的花珠宝。与真实感保持巧妙的距离感,虽然是流行的,但几何花的表现却是不变的风格。描绘出盛开的莲花主题的“莲花”收藏品,继爱可尼克风格的“旋转门”(上・3700,000日元)之后,刚刚出现了纤细的迷你模型(手链545000日元,项链570000日元,耳环1,050,000日元)。给努力了一年的我送钻石花,真是太棒了。
“一起人生的珠宝&手表的选择,即使多少有些勉强,也应该向自己投资最高额的投资”——从50多岁的前辈时尚导演那里得到了教训。是否能成为真正的搭档珠宝&手表,要说看清的绝对基准,那就是想象着50多岁的自己时是否能戴在身上。今天在GINZA SIX上遇到的东西,都是符合这个标准的特别商品。在想为更进一步的闪耀时,为了寻找能让未来闪耀的搭档,还想慢慢地去拜访。
Text:Etsuko Aiko Photos:Tomoko Meguro Editor:Yuka Okada
Jewelry Day is customarily held on the last day of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, which takes place twice a year, in January and July. All the renowned jewelers of Place Vendôme open their doors and present the pinnacle in fine jewelry to journalists, buyers, and VIP customers from countries around the globe. It’s a day of notable luxury. We editors crisscross the Vendôme neighborhood, going from one venue to another. Back in Japan from my current home base in Germany, I heard Ginza offered a very special sense of luxury similar to how I feel in Paris on Jewelry Days. So, of course, I made my way to GINZA SIX.
I headed first to Dior, one of the leaders of Haute Couture Fashion Week. House of Dior Ginza is the brand’s first flagship store in Japan, and it’s a wonderful expression of the Dior world. On the first floor, toward the rear, I found an extensive collection of fine jewelry and watches. My eyes alighted on the highly imaginative window display—it reflects the aesthetic of artistic director Victoire de Castellane. I gazed at the miniature palace with jewelry in the lead role, a creation with the power to cast a fairy-tale spell over the admirer.
Monsieur Dior always kept a star-shaped good luck charm hidden away in his pocket. My guess is that the Rose de Vents collection, whose design is inspired by the star-shaped wind rose, will be the next charm you adore unreservedly.
As I found myself pondering whether the Rose de Vents Ring (185,000 yen; all prices before tax) with its rotating pink opal medallion might be right for layering, I was drawn into the overwhelming aura of fine jewelry. Every time I placed the ring on my finger, it exuded a sculptural beauty. I’m charmed by the volume it occupies in space, its elegance, its nobility, and the perfect blend of colors orchestrated from the Paraiba tourmaline gemstone and other elements.
My heart made instantly delighted by this supreme sparkle, I went next to Café Dior by Pierre Hermé on the fourth floor. I took a special break in this exquisite space, where visitors can enjoy lovely sweets created under the supervision of Pierre Hermé presented on beautiful Dior Maison tableware. The Petit Déjeuner Set (2,400 yen), offered from 10:30 to 13:30 only, includes pancakes, pain perdu, brioche, fruit, and granola, all making for a very satisfying meal.
Even after this hearty breakfast, I couldn’t resist the sweet temptation of the limited-time seasonal dessert (2,700 yen) first offered in November: Vacherin Rose, Framboise, Lychee. The rose-scented ice cream, framboise sorbet, and juicy lychee were surrounded by meringue and Chantilly cream, presenting the beauty of a flower in full bloom. The contrasting temperatures, textures, and flavors melted together on the tongue, reminding me once again of my great admiration for Pierre Hermé’s distinctive “science of taste.”
The café space harmoniously assembles the sensibilities of two of France’s leading brands—in haute couture and haute patisserie, respectively. I understand why both epicures and fashionistas gather here. Next to the café is the only place in Japan where you can find Dior’s home collection, Dior Maison, much mentioned of late. Given as gifts, the teaware, plates, and colorful vases used in the café are certain to delight an important person.
I love the sparkle of watches as much as jewelry, so my next destination was Jaeger-LeCoultre, the renowned watchmaker, which also operates a boutique on Place Vendôme.
Once, long ago, I was a design supremacist. But during my long involvement in photographing and writing about watches, I’ve come to feel that watches with intricate movements are sometimes even lovelier than diamonds. The moment I entered the Jaeger-LeCoultre store, I found myself drawn to the Atmos 568 by Marc Newson (2,900,000 yen), a unique clock with a near-perpetual movement enclosed in a clear Baccarat crystal case. This masterpiece of modern art uses an inventive mechanism that attains nearly perpetual movement by converting thermal variations into power (a change of a single degree in temperature change provides enough energy to power the clock for two days).
Since my standard style is a cross between vintage and high fashion, I first tried on a bicolored Reverso One Cordonnet (815,000 yen), which radiates an Art Deco ethos. The noble geometrical shape and small case create a proper ladylike air that just about knocks me out.
Unexpectedly, the most interesting thing on my visit today to Jaeger-LeCoultre was Atelier Reverso, a service that lets you personalize one of the brand’s famous Reverso watches. Here, I came to my senses. Launched in 2016, Reverso’s 85th anniversary, this customization service lets you customize the strap, the color and material of the dial on the back of the reversible case. I’m told it’s possible to set lapis lazuli, aventurine, and other gemstones—even diamonds, if you’d prefer. They take orders using an iPad here at the GINZA SIX boutique, so I promptly gave it a whirl.
As you swipe the screen, coming up with more and more interesting ideas, the look of the watch changes over and over. It’s sheer delight. You can combine an unbounded number of patterns. This unparalleled opportunity to encounter a wholly unique Reverso compelled me to explore a swirl of possibilities.
We’re now coming to the end of this one-of-a-kind Jewelry Day. The last chapter of sparkle took me to Van Cleef & Arpels, a spacious boutique on three floors with a sales area of 505.5 m2, the largest in Japan. The poetic worldview of a maison combined with the savoir-faire (traditional craftsmanship) of artisans who hold gold in their own hands makes this a sanctuary of elegance and sparkle for someone like me, who continues to be captivated both personally and professionally by these qualities.
Taking the stairs instead of the elevator puts you in a luxurious mood, as if you’re visiting an elegant Paris apartment. The walls are adorned with gold leaf and hand-painted flowers courtesy of French craftspeople. My eyes stopped at a portrait of the Duchess of Windsor on the wall and various design drawings from the maison’s archive.
The second floor features the brand’s bridal collection. The area in the rear, a relaxing space where you can recline on a sofa, offers a selection of high-end bridal rings. The entrance directly connected to GINZA SIX is always open. Even men out on their own can confidently drop in.
The Bouton d’or collection is a recent longing of mine, so I tried on the earrings (3,175,000 yen) and ring (2,100,000 yen). The flowing, elegant layered circles are a modern reinterpretation of the heritage Paillette motif that first appeared for the maison in the 1930s. The carnelian, mother-of-pearl, and pink gold create a graceful contrast of colors. The circle motif on my ears and finger inspired a pleasant and heartening feeling. The beautiful, gently flowing curves stimulated my femininity to no end—the savoir-faire has an undeniable life force. I dream of filling my own jewelry box with its light.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature is its flower jewelry, which seems to fill the air with joy. The geometrical flowers cleverly create a sense of distance from reality while maintaining their poetry—this expression is the maison’s unchanging style. Based on the motif of a lotus flower in full bloom, the Lotus collection includes the iconic Lotus Between the Finger Ring (upper, 3,700,000 yen) as well as the delicate miniature models (bracelet 545,000 yen, pendant 570,000 yen, pierced earrings 1,050,000 yen) just recently introduced. You’ve worked hard this year. A flower made of diamonds may be just the emblem of your hard work you need.
“When selecting jewelry or a watch, something you’ll have for the rest your life, you should invest as much as possible in yourself, even if it stretches your limits.” This word of advice from a mentor, a fashion director in her fifties, crosses my mind. The absolute standard for considering whether a piece of jewelry or a watch will be a true partner, she said, is whether you can see yourself wearing it when you are in your fifties. Today, going from place to place in GINZA SIX, I found countless special items that meet this standard. The next time I have a thirst for sparkles in my life, I will revisit and take my time looking for that special partner that will make the future gleam.
Text:Etsuko Aiko Photos:Tomoko Meguro Editor:Yuka Okada
爱甲悦子
时尚珠宝&手表编辑器。1974年出生于东京。曾在《MISS》、《家庭画报》、《VOGUE NIPPON》、《Harper’s BAZAAR日本版》编辑部工作,2010年渡德。现在往返于德国科隆和东京,作为自由职业者为了追求美和辉煌而四处奔走。活跃在模式杂志、手表&珠宝专业杂志、网络、商品目录等领域。
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