GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
我真实的GINZA SIX“气绝散步路线” My Regular Real GINZA SIX Walking Course (Eliciting Swoons)
干场义雅
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.93
偶然在东京出生过三代的泰勒家族。…在银座附近,从小就有很多让父亲带我来的机会。在布料店、附属的纽扣店所在的批发街开车转转后,最后去了西服店所在的银座。那就是父亲平时工作的课程。
我到了20岁的时候,“成人了,所以最好带着好的西装!”说着就给我做了藏青色的西装。“因为长大了,所以应该知道这样的地方!”说着,就穿着西服带我去银座的高级俱乐部。虽然也有泡沫经济之后的事,但都是像平时从未见过的、化妆美香的女性……。我记得“真好啊~漂亮的姐姐啊”(笑)。
26岁的时候,能切身感受到银座的街道。成为编辑,在出版社点点缀着出版社之后,不久就成了人气杂志《LEON》的编辑部员。银座第一丁目,京桥附近有编辑部,那个时候每天都去,所以对银座变得相当熟悉了。
对于这样的我来说,即使在有着各种各样回忆的银座,喜欢的地方就是GINZA SIX。理由是喜欢的店都齐备。因此,我来介绍一下我经常去的气绝散步路线。
首先,进入入口进入3F的「DSQUARED2」。从那里去看左斜对面的“Neil Barrett(尼尔巴雷特)”,乘坐自动扶梯上5F,去“Gente di Mare”。然后在6楼的“银座大食堂”吃完饭后去了“银座茑屋书店”。
到处都是我的风格=制作“干场型”不可或缺的品牌,也是我最喜欢的店。
因此,这一天最开始出现的是,参加米兰收藏品的吸引人的道具很多的“D广场”。
其中我最喜欢的是牛仔裤。
是“TIDY BIKER(泰国迪拜克)”的类型,是大腿到下摆的轮廓,是以腰间为前提考虑的模型。迪斯科舞厅是最早确立腰间穿着腿脚看起来很短,舒服的话就能消除腹斜筋,是最早确立的第一个品牌。这一天也立刻试穿了2019年秋冬款的泰国迪拜克(60000日元※以下全部不含税价格)。
对于我来说,尽可能减少浪费,不使用颜色和花纹,熟悉风景,最大限度地展现出装扮人魅力的风格是理想的,所以拥有近40条的牛仔裤也大多是黑色。最近还想重新调一条黑牛仔裤,这次也完全变成了购物模式。
D SQUARE的牛仔裤在拉链旁边这样的标签位置也是性感点(笑)。我现在46岁。因为从23岁开始就去,所以已经看了23年的米兰收藏品了…。迪斯科表演中出现的穿着泳衣的男士模特几乎都是肌肉撕裂的。这个非常帅。性感健康。
顺便说一下,米兰迪广场的总公司里还设有会员制健身房和SPA,最顶层有一家叫“Ceresio7”的宝格丽酒店的主厨埃利奥·白尼大展身手的我也非常喜欢的意大利餐厅。因为有游泳池,所以夏天的时候是米兰时尚业界人士聚集的场所。空间设计是由D广场设计者双胞胎迪安和丹亲手设计的,作为他们收藏的巴斯基亚和约翰·科克托的画也是必看的。“吃好吃的东西,锻炼,享受时尚”的品牌姿态的地方,如果有机会的话,请大家一定要去看看哦。
D SQUARE的话,牛仔裤自不必说,西装也很推荐。伸展运动很有效,肩膀的线条很漂亮。当天试穿的是一个扣子夹克紧的西装套装(158000日元)。
因为是模仿穿着短短的夹克来到皮蒂的日本人而诞生的,所以这套西装有“TOKYO”这个名字,另外还有D-SQUARE的西装也被冠以世界城市的名字。
“上半身要看起来很整齐,下半身穿腰鞋”,这就是迪斯科舞厅的流派。因此,接下来是“尼尔巴雷特”的店。
用这个品牌我强烈推荐的是终极的旅行套装! 虽然是上下分开购买的套装,但是技术伸展运动这个素材很难皱纹,因为有伸缩性所以穿起来很轻松,布料也很结实,复原力也很高,所以清洁剂很漂亮,膝盖也很难脱落。
设计师尼尔·巴雷特曾经是普拉达沃莫的导演,就在制作西装方面得到了公认。作为尼尔巴雷特建立了自己的品牌之后,他还设计了我想象中的这种现代西装(夹克139000日元,内裤65000日元),我已经不放手了。仅用这个套装,颜色不同,喜欢7套左右。
顺便说一下,最近买了这件短裤(76000日元)。对于一年一共去海外出差的我来说,复原力高、膝盖不易脱落的短裤,在飞机上是非常方便的。
接下来是“绅士”。虽然是以意大利海边的服装店为主题的精品店,但是几乎没有其他只靠欧洲品牌固定的店,而且无论什么时候来都能遇到男人喜欢的东西和不知道的东西,所以是非常喜欢的店。
例如,2010年在意大利普里亚州诞生的外套品牌“依博”的藏青色大衣(79000日元)。近年来,大衣的风格有了很大的变化,大轮廓、圆润感的A线条、拉链的褶皱等女性的流行趋势也波及到了男士身上,这就是品牌的先驱。
主要使用优质的羊毛,腰部分有皮带,稍微有点海外的军服,或者说穿起来会看起来很可爱的大叔(笑)。顺便说一下,我在担任主编的WEB杂志《FORZA STYLE》上追加订购,很快就卖完了。
最近出版的著作《干场义雅爱的终极品牌100+5》中,以依博的外套为首,介绍了D广场的牛仔布和尼尔巴雷特的西装都介绍了,如果有机会的话,通过这本书,大家的风格如果能知道制作各种品牌的优质产品就太好了。
绅士们还推荐2010年在佛罗伦萨的恩浦里诞生的专门羽绒服的外套品牌“DUNO”。因为运用优质的素材和尖端技术,使用传统的意大利风格技术,所以在都市的场景中也能毫无违和感地合身为好。为了防止羽毛的拔毛,使用了双面包,所以不会瘦下来,可以长期使用。这是想新做羽绒服的时候知道的品牌,穿起来就能看到小脸,这也是推荐的要点(笑)。这是名为“GEYSER”(79000日元)的模型。
这样的肩膀也不行。
还有,在卡普里岛的修道院诞生的“CARTHUSIA”的香水,也是每次去卡普里都会买到的人知道的绝品。特别喜欢刚摘下来的清爽柠檬叶上能散发出新鲜绿茶香味的“Medineo”(50ml 12000日元)。
顺便说一下,卡普里岛以柠檬为名产,加尔帕克也加了很多柠檬,柠檬汽水也非常充实,去了就一定会气绝! 而且对于我来说,食物无论贵还是便宜,好吃得让人气绝的程度很重要。在GINZA SIX的散步中,大部分人在“银座大食堂”点了鳗鱼盖浇饭,为之后的繁重工作做准备。说到亲子盖饭,“今天味道有点浓啊”之类的,总之就是以这样的频率吃的(笑)。
当天订购了鳗鱼重(4000日元)。使用国产鳗鱼和九州红酒的调味汁的搭配非常出众。
如果要找特等席的话,可以从上面眺望银座中央路的面向阳台的窗边,白天的话自然光会让人心情舒畅,推荐。
然后散步的最后,从银座大食堂走到旁边的“银座茑屋书店”。从艺术书到时尚照片,很多可以作为工作参考的东西和作为室内装饰也能成立的东西的时候,可以一起买10本左右,然后送到自己家。
这一天因为很在意作为粉丝的布鲁斯・韦伯的写真集,所以拿在手里。…。
看到我的样子,摄影接待员的番场文章先生推荐了布鲁斯・韦伯珍藏的两本书。
一本书是1991年当时为了在洛杉矶Fahey/Klein Gallery和东京Parco Exposure Gallery举办展览会而制作的1991年写真集,其文本竟然是代表1997年去世的20世纪的美国小说家之一威廉·巴罗斯写的《BRUCE WEBER》(12000日元)。另一本是安迪・沃霍尔创刊的杂志1984年洛杉矶奥运会特集《Andy Warhol's Interview Magazine 1983 Jan/Feb United State Games Special》(29000日元)。布鲁斯・韦伯拍摄了美国代表运动员们的肉体美。从封面上看,感觉很糟糕。当然买了!
以上就是在GINZA SIX上制作“干场型”的老店铺,虽然现在自己的风格已经定下来了,但是在到达那里之前买了各种各样的东西,失败了很多。
但是,所有的风格都定下来了,无论是男性还是女性,都能让自己发光。
GINZA SIX都是优质的东西,我觉得这是一个可以挑选出这些东西的可靠眼睛的地方,所以大家也一定要去,试着去一下吧?
Text:Yoshimasa Hoshiba Photos:Yuichi Sugita Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
I was born into a family of tailors in Tokyo, three generations. From the time I was a young child, I had lots of opportunities to accompany my father to Ginza. We would go around by car to the wholesaler district to the fabric shop and button dealer, and then lastly to Ginza to the clothing store. This was the route my father always took for his job.
Around the time I turned 20, my father said, “You’re just about a grown man now, so you need a good suit!” With that, he made me one of navy blue. He added: “As an adult, you need to know about places like this,” and had me put on the suit he made and took me to one of Ginza’s exclusive clubs. It was after the economic bubble had burst in the early 90s, but the club was full of beautiful women in beautiful makeup and alluring perfume, the kind of women you don’t see every day. I remember concluding beautiful women are a very good thing!
Ginza became something more immediate when I was around 26. I’d worked as an editor at a number of publishers and after a while, I started working in the editorial department of LEON, the popular men’s magazine. The department was located near Ginza 1-chome, Kyobashi. I was there pretty much every day, so I became fairly familiar with the district.
Among all the places in Ginza where I have memories aplenty, one of my favorites is GINZA SIX. It’s simply because my favorite stores are there. Today I’ll briefly introduce you to the walking course I always take, one that always elicits sighs of delight, if not fainting spells.
I go first to DSQUARED2 on the third floor. From there I go see Neil Barrett, located across and to the left of DSQUARED2. Next is Gente di Mare, up the elevator on the fifth floor. I eat at Ginza Grand Premium Food Hall on the sixth floor, and afterwards make my way to Ginza Tsutaya Books.
I love each of these places, and each is indispensable in creating my trademark Hoshiba style.
Today, I venture first to DSQUARED2, which participates in Milan Fashion Week and carries a host of catchy items.
I love the denim in particular.
The type called Tidy Biker creates a tapered silhouette from thighs to hem. They’re high-rise but made to be worn low on the waist. DSQUARED2 designs are worn this way; they make your legs look short, which is offset by creating a long-looking torso that may happen to accentuate your obliques, a look the brand pioneered. Today I try on the Tidy Biker model for fall/winter 2019 (60,000 yen; all prices listed before tax).
In my case, my ideal style eliminates frills, doesn’t rely on a color or pattern, blends into its surroundings, and brings out the qualities of the individual wearing it. Of my close to 40 pairs of denim, most are black. Lately I’ve considered buying another pair of black denim, so, today, I’m entirely in full-on shopping mode.
DSQUARED2 denim puts the tag next to the zipper, a rather sexy position. I’m currently 46 years old. I’ve shopped at the store since I was 23, and I’ve seen the brand at Milan Fashion Week for the past 23 years as well. Most of the male swimwear models in the DSQUARED2 show have really lean, taut midriffs. They look really cool; super-sexy and very healthy.
In passing, the DSQUARED2 head office in Milan has a members-only gym and spa, as well as Ceresio 7, an Italian restaurant on the top floor I love, where Elio Sironi, formerly of Bulgari Hotel, flashes his skills. There’s a pool there, too. In the summer, it’s a gathering place for the city’s fashionable movers and shakers. The interior space was designed by twins Dean and Dan Caten, DSQUARED2’s designers. The Basquiat and Cocteau artwork in their personal collection are must-sees. It’s a place that embodies the brand’s ethos of eating good food, training the body, and enjoying fashion. You’re encouraged to visit, if you ever have the opportunity.
DSQUARED2’s denim is great, of course, but I can also recommend the suits. They stretch, and the shoulder line is really beautiful. Today I tried on a suit setup with a tight, one-button jacket (158,000 yen).
The suit is called “TOKYO,” because it is inspired by the impressions left by Japanese visitors wearing a short-hemmed jacket at Pitti Immagine. The other suits in DSQUARED2’s line are also named after world cities.
The upper body is contoured precisely, while the lower body is low-fitting and loose. This is the DSQUARED2 look. Next up is Neil Barrett.
I strongly recommend this brand for the ultimate travel suit. It’s a setup that lets you buy the jacket and slacks separately, and the elastic Techno Stretch fabric resists wrinkling. It’s easy to wear. The fabric is strong and retains its shape well, which means it can be creased beautifully and resists stretching out at the knees.
Since his time as director at Prada Uomo, designer Neil Barrett has had a strong reputation as a suit maker. After launching his eponymous brand, he’s continued to design suits like this, which I picture as modern (jacket 139,000 yen; slacks 65,000 yen). I can’t let them go: I have around seven of this type alone in different colors.
On a rather different note, I recently bought these sweatpants (76,000 yen). I’m on trips overseas around two months every year, and these sweats recover their shape well and resist stretching out at the knees too; they’re invaluable on flights.
Next up is Gente di Mare, a mixed-label brand with an ‘Italian coastal boutique’ theme. It’s one of the few shops dedicated solely to European brands. Every time I go I find things men really like and things I didn’t know about at all, so I’m very much a fan of the shop.
For example, this navy blue coat (79,000 yen) is from the outerwear brand HEVO, which was established in 2010 in Puglia, Italy. Coat styles have changed a great deal in the past few years, but this brand was ahead of the game in incorporating women’s trends into men’s fashion: big silhouettes, rounded A-lines, and the drop shoulders of raglan sleeves.
It’s made primarily of high-end wool and features a belt at the waist; it feels a bit like a foreign military uniform. I put it on, and it gave me the look of a cool middle-aged dude, no? FORZA STYLE, the online magazine I’m editor in chief of, put in a special order for the coat, and it sold out almost immediately.
The Ultimate 100+5 Brands Loved by Yoshimasa Hoshiba, my recent book, introduces all of these—the HEVO coat, denim from DSQUARED2, and Neil Barrett suits. If you get the chance, the book goes into some detail about quality products from various brands you can use to create your style and silhouette.
At Gente di Mare, I also recommend DUNO, an outerwear brand that specializes in down launched in Empoli, Florence in 2010. Integrating high quality materials, cutting edge technologies, and traditional Italian tailoring techniques, the coats fit naturally into any urban setting. The coats use double packing to keep the down feathers from coming out. They should retain their insulation for a long, long time. I learned of this brand when I was looking for a new style of down jacket. When I tried it on, it made my head appear smaller, which is one of the reasons I recommend it. It’s the GEYSER (79,000 yen).
You can hang it off your shoulder like this as well.
Carthusia fragrance, which comes from a monastery on the island of Capri, is a treasure known only to very few, and is something you should never forget to buy when visiting the island. Invigorating, fresh-picked lemon leaf mingles with the aroma of fresh green tea to produce the fragrance Mediterraneo (50 ml, 12,000 yen), the one I especially like.
Incidentally, Capri is famous for its lemons. Even the carpaccio is doused with lemon, and the limoncello is so, so good. It’ll leave you swooning. When it comes to food, cheap or expensive matters less than whether it’s so delicious you feel faint. On my walks at GINZA SIX, I usually go to Ginza Grand Premium Food Hall, order broiled eel in a box or chicken-and-egg rice bowl, and fortify myself for a stretch of hard work. With the chicken-and-egg rice bowl, I’ll think, “It tastes a bit rich today” or some such thing—that’s how often I have it.
Today, I order the broiled eel in a box (4,000 yen). The domestic eel and sauce with Kyushu red sake go together perfectly.
If you’re looking for a great place to sit, I recommend the area near the windows facing the terrace. Here you can look down on Chuo-dori. The natural sunlight in the afternoon feels great.
My last stop on my walk is Ginza Tsutaya Books, right next to the food hall. From art books to fashion photo collections, I’ll sometimes buy as many as 10 volumes, including books for work and books that could serve as interior décor, and have them shipped to my house.
Today, I pick out a photo collection from a photographer I really like, Bruce Weber.
Seeing me, the photography concierge Fumiaki Bamba, who knows everything about the treasured photo collections in stock at Ginza Tsutaya Books and is also a buyer, recommends two special Bruce Weber titles.
The first is a photo collection from 1991 made for exhibitions that year at the Fahey/Klein Gallery in Los Angeles and the Parco Exposure Gallery in Tokyo, with text by William S. Burroughs, a major American author who died in 1997. It’s titled Bruce Weber (12,000 yen). The other is the inaugural issue of a magazine produced by Andy Warhol for the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, Andy Warhol’s Interview Magazine 1983 Jan/Feb United States Olympic Special (29,000 yen). It features Bruce Weber photographs of the physical beauty of U.S. Olympic athletes. Judging by the cover, it looks arresting, totally wild. Of course I buy it.
This completes my tour of several places at GINZA SIX that help create my signature Hoshiba style. While my basic style is set at this point, getting here was no easy task. Along the way I have bought a lot and made many mistakes.
But once your style is in place, whether you’re a man or woman, you can make yourself shine.
GINZA SIX is full of high-quality products. It’s a good place for a good walk to develop a fine eye for what’s right for you. I encourage everyone to go and find the things that make you swoon.
Text:Yoshimasa Hoshiba Photos:Yuichi Sugita Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
干场义雅
1973年出生。时尚导演。《FORZA STYLE》(讲谈社)主编。经过杂志《MA-I》、《物志》、《ESCII日本版》等男性杂志的编辑,参与了《LEON》、《OCEANS》的创刊,掀起了“有点不良大叔”热潮。2012年成立了风格诊所。除了担任热爱乘船旅行的男女杂志《Sette Mari》的主编外,TOKYO FM的广播主持人、电视节目的时尚环节、谈话活动等,超越了媒体的界限,进行了广泛的活动。在YouTube的人气节目B.R.CHANNEL的“时尚学院”担任讲师,品牌的制作也积极地进行着。著作也很多。Instagram @yoshimasa_hoshiba
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