能满足美哈心,巴黎寻求这个必需品 – GINZA SIX | GSIX | 银扎西克斯

GINZA SIX EDITORS

时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。

栗山爱由

GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.10（Women’s Fashion）

从9月末到10月初,我们采访了半年一次的乐趣,2018年春夏巴黎收藏品。

本来是各品牌发表新作品的活动,但是可以说是从全世界聚集起来的像我这样的时尚宅在这里打扮的盛典。我也果断地用高跟鞋面对巴黎顽固的石板这一强对手进行了挑战。不过半天,脚就像棍子一样。胡乱休息,重要的展览会也变得疏忽了。

我深知高跟鞋对人的身体构造不勉强,基本上不会穿那么女人味的打扮,但还是有用针高跟鞋完成的造型。有没有像我这样想到的时候突然穿高跟鞋的人种也很温和,舒适的鞋跟鞋吗?

2楼的马诺布拉尼克。

以日本为印象的店内,高跟鞋鳞次栉比,十分壮观。拥有45年以上经验的MANORO设计的鞋品牌。一定在研究女性的脚步。怀着这样的期待,我战战兢兢地问店员有没有面向初学者的别针高跟鞋呢,结果被推荐从那个布里吉特·巴尔多的首字母取的“BB高跟鞋”。因为设计简单,所以在办公室里也很受欢迎。明明不习惯却越过了高跟5cm,试着尝试了9cm,但是有着让人吃惊的安定感。据说是因为“抓住脚后跟的中心来决定重心”的木型,但是品牌最高值10.5cm也不错。

在电视剧《欲望城市》的主人公卡里•布拉德秀被吸引而出名的缎子和杰维尔背带美丽的“韩式”。

在柏林买的便宜图案紧身裤上,特意奢侈的针脚跟也很好。这样穿起来很舒服,所以没必要说。

总觉得有些难以理解的发夹高跟鞋的成就感。根据样式的不同,根据不同的木型和高跟鞋的高度不同,合适的尺寸也会发生变化,所以只限于边细边细边斟酌。

巴黎这是在3月和10月举行的,并不是极寒,所以不需要毛皮外套,但也不是不冷,而是总是烦恼着选择外套。在那样的季节里方便的是Trench和裤子。接着我去了那些看起来很丰富的3楼麦金特什。

据说拥有东京都内最大规模的店内。

象征品牌,防水性强的橡胶拉大衣是有弹性的立体轮廓。简单的设计却有存在感,想要克服微妙的寒冷时是绝佳的单品。

标准当然是不错的,但是在时尚盛典上穿的话,就更想追求华丽。米哈的我吃到的是巴伦西亚加的艺术导演,与现在心跳不已的戴姆纳·瓦扎里亲手制作的维多蒙的合作,以及起用伦敦新锐设计师基科斯塔迪诺夫的“MACKINTOSH0001”线。立刻得意忘形地试穿了前者。

这也是橡胶拉,不仅功能性足够,而且大尺寸肩膀放松了,情况很好。对带我去的副店长说:“不,很合适啊!”强行要求同意。

我也想尝试一下再小一个小的东西,干脆可以攻打极端的大尺寸吗?!这样决定吧,暂时保留下来。最后去4楼的瓦尔卡尼斯伦敦。

就这样巴黎这件衣服就成了相当多的行李了,所以现在常用的手套手提箱30英寸的行李箱已经不够了。因此,我想尝试一下最大尺寸的33英寸。

拿着样品的话,女性也不会有那么大的印象。想一定要积极研究,一边滚着行李箱一边在店内走着,突然看到了斯迈森的柜台。

英国王室御用品牌是人气很高的英国王室御用品牌,这么说来,在表演中旁边的编辑器拿着“Runway Notes”。打开的左页有“CITY”、“SEASON”、“SHOW”、“COMMENTS”等栏,画着网格,右边是白色素色。衣服的插图好像能画出来。总是用iPhone拍摄自己喜欢的样子,如果有这样一个皮革封面的漂亮笔记本的话,就更认真地记笔记了。…这样的梦想。顺便说一下,当天发现了名为“Travels and Experiences”的笔记本。

这个也有写日期和地点的栏,可以用。另外,在这方面的笔记本上分条书写就好了,但果然设计很漂亮,或者设置了特别的栏目的话,心情会变好。虽然价格有点高,但正因为如此,才想要写出符合条件的内容。这和穿着高级服装,让人心情舒畅,穿着无所谓的衣服让心情舒畅的时尚相通。果然还是从形式进入也不错。

因此,只要去GINZA SIX就会发现下一个巴黎的准备。刚刚结束,报告也要到此为止了,完全不想。面对下一个赛季,兴奋不已。

Text : Itoi Kuriyama Photo : Kohey Kanno Edit：Yuka Okada

From the end of September to the beginning of October, I was in Paris covering Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018.

The original purpose of this twice-annual event I very much look forward to was showcasing the latest collections from a range of fashion brands. But for a fashion nerd like me, and others like me who come to Paris from all over the world, it’s a festival for dressing up like no other. I personally went bold and tried pitting pin heels against the city’s rough cobblestone streets. But even before I’d made it through a half day, my legs were stiff and sore. I took reckless breaks and even failed to make it around to some of the key exhibitions. I’m keenly aware high heels put unusual stresses on the human frame, and I don’t usually go for that much of a feminine look, but some styles just don’t work without the finishing touch of high heels. I wonder if there’s anything like pin heels made for people like me, who might wear them at the spur of the moment.

In desperate need for a comfy pair of high heels, I come to the second floor and to Manolo Blahnik.

Inside the store, designed on a Japanese theme, are rows and rows of high heels. It’s quite the sight. This is the shoe brand of fashion designer Manolo Blahnik, whose career spans more than 45 years. Without question, he’s exhaustively researched women’s feet. So, full of expectations and with a certain trepidation, I asked the sales clerk if they perhaps carried pin heels for beginners. I was recommended the BB Pumps—the “BB” for Brigitte Bardot. I’m told the simple design makes them popular for office wear. Despite my lack of experience in wearing high heels, I skipped right over the 5 cm variety and went for the 9 cm model. To my astonishment, they’re really stable. The wood form apparently centers your heel and stabilizes your center of gravity. Even the 10.5 cm model, the brand’s highest, felt like they’d work for me.

I also tried those famous and beautiful, jewel-buckled satin shoes that won the heart of “Sex and the City” protagonist, Carrie Bradshaw: Hangisi pumps.

The effect of such luxurious pumps over the cheap, floral tights I picked up in Berlin was a minor success. The extraordinary comfort while I’m wearing them left me speechless.

I feel I now have a handle on the difficult-to-master pin heel pumps, a pleasing sensation. The perfect size can be different with different forms and heel heights, which in turn change with the style. All of this means finding the right size takes a watchful eye and some trial and error. Definitely take your time when trying them on.

Paris Fashion Week is held in March and October. While the weather’s not exactly frigid during these months—you wouldn’t need a fur coat—it’s not not cold, either. I never know what to do about outerwear. Trench coats and stand collar coats are a convenient compromise for seasons like this, so I head to MACKINTOSH on the third floor, which features an ample selection of both.

The MACKINTOSH store here is as spacious as any in the city.

The highly waterproof rubberized coat that symbolizes the brand presents a firm, three-dimensional silhouette. The simple design has an unmistakeable presence. It’s just perfect for those somewhat chilly days.

No one can second-guess choosing the standard, of course, but for something worn at a festival of fashion, I find myself looking for something a little more lavish. As a confessed fad-follower, I bit at the collaboration with Vetements, a fashion collective that includes Demna Gvasalia, currently at peak popularity, who also serves as artistic director for Balenciaga, and the MACKINTOSH 001 line, spearheaded by up-and-coming London designer Kiko Kostadinov. Self-absorbed in anticipation, I immediately tried on the former.

This type is also rubberized for full functionality. It’s oversized, with relaxed shoulders. It feels great. “It really does look great on me, doesn’t it?” I exclaim to the assistant store manager taking the time to show it to me—which, of course, forces him to agree. I consider trying a size smaller… or perhaps just go for the extreme, with the oversized version? I can’t decide and put the matter on hold. Lastly, I visit VULCANIZE London on the fourth floor.

When I go to Fashion Week, I end up taking a ton of clothes. Since my much-adored and trusty 30-inch Globe-Trotter suitcase just isn’t big enough now, I wanted to try the max-size 33-incher.

I try out a sample and don’t get the sense necessarily that it would be too big for a woman like me. With a really thorough look-over in mind, I wheel it around the store… and, as I’m doing so, the Smythson area catches my eye.

Smythson is a purveyor to the British Royal Family, and come to think of it, an editor sitting next to me at a show had one of their Runway Notes notebooks. When you open it, the left-hand page features sections for “City,” “Season,” “Show,” and “Comments”; the page is ruled. The page on the right, the opposite side, is blank, making it perhaps the ideal space for fashion sketches. I always have my iPhone to capture any look that interests me. But this awesome leather-covered notebook… might it not encourage a more thorough fashion note-taking engagement with these events?!? I find myself daydreaming. Incidentally, I found a notebook today called “Travels and Experiences.”

This one also has sections for noting down dates and places; it looks very handy. Of course, you could just write the headings yourself in any old notebook, but when the design is so strikingly elegant and just right and the notebook comes with special sections already there, it adds that much more to the appeal. And if it’s a bit expensive, you’ll probably take greater care with getting the words you put down just right. I find that’s true of fashion, too; you tend to tense up a bit when dressed up and loosen up some in more casual clothes. Starting with form itself is not a bad thing.

Which means, too, that just going to GINZA SIX reminds me how ready I feel already for the next Fashion Week. Even though this one’s just ended, even though the work to be done to put into words the sights and sounds is just beginning, I’m already restless. My excitement and anticipation for the season to come keep me loyal company.

Text: Itoi Kuriyama, Photo: Kohey Kanno, Edi: Yuka Okada