GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
像“信”、“交通工具”一样。能和远方国家的人对话的人 Like a Postcard or Magic Carpet: Talking to People from Far-Off Lands
野村由芽 编辑
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.109
从2020年3月左右开始,海外的制作者那里收到衣服的情况增加了。滚动Instagram,寻找通过独立制作精美服装的人们,或是在海外的精品店的EC网站上巡回。虽然从很久以前开始就经常去国外,但即便如此,因为“不能外出,不能出去”这种充满压力的闭塞感中,我想稍微深入地感受到生活在遥远的地方的人们的生活方式,也想接触那些人所看到的风景。这种想法每天都在增加,像被抓住了一样买衣服,劳动的钱几乎消失在衣服上。但是,我觉得那个行为确实是为了生存下去,确实是必要的。
越过大海送到的衣服中,经常会附上“Thank you for big your3,000 point♡”这样的手写贺卡。制作的人的体温慢慢传达给对方,感觉像是在握手,也有像拥抱一样的感觉。穿着衣服自然而然地被认为是未知的制作者的人品,感觉稍微踏入了生活的街道,衣服就像书信一样,还是交通工具一样。
衣服有能保护自己不受酷暑和寒冷伤害的功能,以及表现自己身份和立场的社会方面。还有一个。作为一个人,面对着看不到终结的状况,尽管如此还是希望能快乐地生活下去的人,我相信衣服也是连接人与人之间的东西。怀着这样的心情,在这次的企划中,我们参观了一家能缅怀着遥远国家的人们、文化以及流逝时间的GINZA SIX店。
首先,源于南美巴他戈尼亚的朱利安·贝德尔先生在阿根廷布宜诺斯艾利斯创立的法国品牌“FUEGUIA 1833银座”(3F)。听到布宜诺斯艾利斯,脑海中浮现的是张国荣和托尼·雷恩饰演恋人角色的原卡乌导演的电影《布宜诺斯艾利斯》。想起了充满神秘气息的雄伟伊瓜斯瀑布和扎根于当地的探戈酒吧的音色而陶醉的时候,朱利安出生于拥有建筑师和诗人等的艺术一家,本人作为弦乐器制作者也十分活跃。脑海中浮现出的也是什么?……难道朱利安的……?也许是引导。
我很在意朱利安为什么突然转身到了香氛世界,但是这一天,雅典娜的工作人员说,“世界上缺乏真正的东西”。完全不使用人口香料,每一个香氛就自己调香100种植物,试图模仿阿根廷的历史、艺术、音乐、自然等灵感编织而成的可持续性创造性香氛的行动力。
店里整齐地展示着的包装盒现在有99种,全部的尺寸也准备了3种,每一个名字真的很棒。比如说,令人印象深刻的“VALLE DE LA LUNA(月之谷)”(23100日元/30ml※以下全部含税价格),来源于阿根廷、玻利维亚、智利实际存在的地名(顺便说一下,这个香氛是切了爱丽丝根,在完全暗处保管了3年的原料,非常昂贵。虽然使用人工爱丽丝的品牌很多,但是朱利安则表示“爱丽丝的美丽在于和其他原料搭配时,能够很好地表现出艾丽丝以外的香味”,并注重自然的爱丽丝。除此之外,还有“ELOGIO DE LA SOMBRA(赞美黑暗)”(18700日元/30ml)、“DUNAS DE UN CUERPO(肉体沙丘)”(19800日元/30ml)等让人感受到人类内部和欲望的东西等,无论哪个名字都像俳句中使用的“二物冲击”一样,没有遇到的东西的世界。最重要的是,接受“朱利安,是很开心地取名的吧”的一方也兴奋不已,自己想投身于哪个故事中呢?从新的视角来选择香氛。
在GINZA SIX店先行发售的倒木木箱里的“Le Cave Vintage”(各50000日元~)也很厉害。通常使用酒精的香氛总有一天会散发出香味,但是这个复古帕尔芬的收藏品,采用蒸馏的手法,“直到孙子时代”的香味就会持续下去。听了这番话,我想象着,即使自己重要的人不在了,或者说自己离开了这个世界,如果那个人所爱的香味永远留存下去的话,那是多么令人鼓舞的事情啊。“FUEGUIA 1833”有这样的力量。一旦接受了朱利安创造的世界,就会想起自己的记忆,想起了快要忘记的重要事情,就会想哭一点。
店内有与日本有着很深缘分的已故查尔洛特・佩里安设计的朱利安喜爱的低座面椅子,可是日本的茶室和柱子的主题都镶嵌在各处,温暖的照明是为了集中在香味上而下功夫的结果。这些演出毫无厌倦的亲密而舒适的空间,让人想起怀念的自己,帮助他们进入新的世界冒险。存在着这样多层幸福的时空。
接下来去意大利佛罗伦萨。1921年古驰创立,2015年阿勒山德洛・米歇尔就任创意导演,2015年阿勒山德洛・米歇尔就任创意导演而引起话题的“GUCCI”。手表和珠宝专卖店是“GUCCI Watch&Jewelry(古驰手表&珠宝)”。
据说GINZA SIX的店铺今年春天刚刚开张,是以2019年在巴黎·凡巨蛋广场开张的珠宝店为原型的最新制作。
说起GUCCI,给人以创始人的首字母的双G logo给人留下了深刻的印象,除此之外,作为介绍给品牌带来灵感的场所的“Gucci Places”,选择了中目黑的盒式磁带专卖店“waltz”,或者和影像作家佩特拉·柯林斯的合作,以匈牙利为根源的作家在少女时代度过了少女时代度过了少女时代度过了与柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的作品和柯林斯的合作,匈牙利的合作,匈牙利为根源的作品和匈牙利为根源的合作,在少女时代度过了
话虽如此,我对时尚珠宝的好奇心还是觉醒的时候。踏入了辉煌的店内,看到几乎所有的商品都被保存在陈列柜里的样子,“虽然说自己想来的……”刚开始有点紧张。但是仔细观察箱子,发现那个。与其说是有吸引力的地方,不如说是富有魅力、大胆的设计。被称为狮子头的狮子的主题。带着钻石的眼睛,“噗”的表情满足的猫。在表盘上镶嵌着小小的心形和钻石的图案。既容易亲近又能散发出纤细闪耀的宝物。
我养着猫,知道了这一点的店里的工作人员说:“你不喜欢吗?”的建议是,正面是鬼吉斯的手电筒,背面隐藏着立体猫的猫头鹰戒指(249700日元)。
“咬猫”的反倒……!受到这样的冲击,不由得“咬猫”在意大利语中是怎么说的呢?按照自己的方式调查了一下,“fare la gatta morta”(装作死去的母猫)好像很近。我想问问熟悉意大利语的人语源。
顺便说一下,手表的收藏品中也有在脸上配上猫的设计(125400日元),人气很高的“握杆”系列中也有片假名“古驰”的日本限定版(253000日元)。
“随着年龄的增长,意大利女性在有斑点和皱纹的脖子上戴着个性的精细珠宝的样子很帅”,前辈的编辑曾经说过这句话给我留下了深刻的印象,回去之后对GUCCI进行了调查,米歇尔的祖母也是珠宝的收藏家。总有一天,我也想在比现在更大的日子里,堂堂正正地穿上GUCCI,在佛罗伦萨、巴黎和全世界的街道上走一走。
最后访问的是1914年约翰·帕图以自己的名字在巴黎创立,2018年9月改名为“帕特”,迎接基姆·亨利作为艺术导演的新生“Patou”(3F)。
创业当时,他提出要从没有紧身衣的礼服、长度短的裙子、街上可以穿的运动线等限制性多的衣服中解放女性,成为想要打破旧习惯的女性朋友的品牌,虽然有脊梁骨,但也能感受到自由风格的GINZA SIX的店,今年春天作为世界最大规模的卖场面积而自豪的店铺开张。
纤细精致的蕾丝、浪漫清爽的马林装束、带有真实嘴巴的主题的包。在齐聚一堂的Patou服装和饰品面前,“如果能实现的话,我都想要这个。……”,大脑轻飘飘飘的同时,试穿了Maxim长红色小花纹的棉布布丁(126,500日元)。轻快!不要脱身!捏住裙子,让人想转一圈!这样的心跳开关好几次被关上了,以巴黎为据点活动的电影导演阿尼埃斯·瓦尔达的作品中可能出现的“弗利尔挂件水手帽”(49500日元),虽然在现代是不怎么常见的形状,但却不由自主地伸长了,戴着一只可爱和美丽的绝妙的咸梅欣喜笑了起来。
继承了品牌的基姆爱着“日常生活中的非日常”、“有什么不足的东西”等要素。虽然是挺直腰板的优雅氛围,但却仿佛从空想和梦想中借用了创意一样,充满不可思议魅力的道具,有着大人为了做梦而架起梯子,欢迎到达那里的人们的包容力。
以怎样的理由穿上衣服,是每个人的自由。在这样的情况下,我想让自己颤抖,在往往习惯失去与世界接触点的环境的现在,即便如此,我也并没有限制与生活在遥远或附近确实存在的他人的对话。我想一边穿着衣服,一边和前面的东西对话。
Text: Yume Nomura(me and you) Photo: Mariko Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
From around March 2020, when we stopped being able to go out whenever we liked, I increasingly ordered clothing from designers based overseas. Night after night (usually it was late at night when I’d try to cheer myself up by buying clothes), I’d scroll through Instagram looking for people who made wonderful clothes on their own, or browse the online sites of overseas boutiques. I didn’t travel abroad much before. But trapped inside as I was, dealing with the pressure of not being able to go out and knowing you’re not supposed to go out, I found myself wanting to find out more about the lives of people in faraway places and to see what they saw. This grew stronger each day. I bought clothes as if hypnotized, spending nearly all my daily earnings. Looking back, I think it’s something I needed to do in order to get through that period.
The clothes arriving from across the seas often had handwritten messages that read something like “Thank you for your support!” The designers’ passion was palpable. It made me feel like I was holding hands with them or giving them a big hug. And when I put the clothes on, it was as though I knew the designer—who, of course, I didn’t actually know. I felt somehow that I’d stepped foot in the places where they lived. Clothing became something like a postcard from abroad, or a magical mode of transport.
Clothing has a functional side; it protects you from the heat and cold. It has a social side; it’s a mode of self-expression and badge of social standing. But it has yet another side. As someone who wants to find joy in life even under difficult circumstances with no clear end in sight, I want to believe clothing can bring people together. Taking this idea to heart, I visited some GINZA SIX stores to take my mind, on a magic carpet, to the peoples, cultures, and the time spent in far-off lands.
With these thoughts in mind, I go first to FUEGUIA 1833 Ginza on the third floor, a fragrance brand founded in Buenos Aires, Argentina, by Julian Bedel, who has family in the Patagonia region of South America. I hear “Buenos Aires” and I’m reminded of Happy Together, a Wong Kar-wai romance set in that city starring Leslie Cheung and Tony Leung Chiu-wai. I’m spellbound recalling the grandeur and mystery of Iguazu Falls and the sights and sounds of the local tango bar. Julian was apparently born into an artistic family of architects and poets and also had a successful career as a luthier. My recollection of the movie was so strangely vivid, I couldn’t help wondering why. Could it have been… Julian? Did he somehow lead me here?
I find myself wondering why Julian so suddenly entered the world of fragrance. The store attendant tells me it was because Julian felt the world in general was lacking in the truly authentic. His fragrances use absolutely no artificial ingredients. Each is his own blend of up to 100 plants, with inspiration drawn freely from the history, art, music, and nature of Argentina. The initiative and drive he has shown in creating this line of original, sustainable fragrances I hope will rub off on me, too.
His collection of perfumes, displayed in an orderly manner inside the store, currently features 99 varieties, with each variety coming in three sizes. Each of the names, too, is wonderful. For example, this one, the descriptive and romantic Valle De La Luna (“Valley of the Moon”; 23,100 yen / 30 ml; *all prices listed before tax), named after actual places in Argentina, Bolivia, and Chile, made a deep impression. (Incidentally, this fragrance incorporates a costly ingredient that comes from iris roots cut and stored in complete darkness for three years. Many brands use artificial irises, but Julian prefers natural irises because, he says, combining the beauty of the iris with other ingredients allows the exquisite expression of scents beyond iris.) Other perfumes in the collection, Elogio de la Sombra (“Praise for Darkness”) (18,700 yen / 30 ml) and Dunas De Un Cuerpo (“Dune of a Body”) (19,800 yen / 30 ml), evoke sensations of personal introspection and desire. All of the names juxtapose disparate images, a common device in Japanese haiku. Juxtaposing things that don’t normally go together can conjure up magical worlds. More than anything, I get the sense Julian had fun coming up with these names, which, on the receiving end, fills me with excitement. Into which of these stories should I throw myself? It gives you a different perspective on selecting a fragrance. For me, that’s a new discovery.
Le Cave Vintage (from 50,000 yen each), which was sold first at GINZA SIX and comes in a wooden box made from fallen trees, is also amazing. The scent of fragrances based on ordinary alcohol eventually dissipates, but this collection of vintage perfumes relies on a distillation technique that sustains the scents “until your grandchildren’s generation.” Hearing this, I think about how the fragrance of a loved one will remain forever, even after they pass away, or even after I die. I imagine how reassuring this might be. FUEGUIA 1833 has this power. Taking in the world Julian has created, I’m immersed in memory and recall some important things I’d forgotten, which leaves me a little teary-eyed.
The store’s low-backed chairs, a favorite of Julian, were designed by the late Charlotte Perriand, who had deep ties to Japan. When I look around, I see elements of Japanese tearooms and exposed pillar construction. Plus, the dim lighting is designed to focus attention on the scents themselves. These design elements mix and merge to create an intimate, cozy space that inspires nostalgia and prompts me to venture into a new world, a space and time of happiness on multiple levels.
Next, I make my way to Florence, Italy. Founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921, GUCCI was in the spotlight in 2015 when Allessandro Michele was appointed creative director. GUCCI Watch & Jewelry on the second floor is the brand’s boutique specializing in watches and jewelry.
The GINZA SIX location opened just this past spring. It’s the latest version of the jewelry store first opened by the brand on Place Vendôme in Paris in 2019.
GUCCI is well known for its striking double-G logo from its founder’s initials, but I was also drawn here by the brand’s initiatives with shops and artists with strong personalities of their own. For example, waltz, a cassette tape specialist in Nakameguro, was selected for Gucci Places, which highlights the places that inspired the brand. Gucci Places also collaborates with photographer Petra Collins, who has roots in Hungary and whose photographs transform the everyday rural scenery where she spent her childhood into fantastical dreamscapes.
Having said this though, I’ve only just recently gotten curious about fashion jewelry. Stepping into this glittering shop and seeing nearly every product tucked carefully away in a showcase made me a bit nervous to be honest, though it was my own choice to come. Though when I look more closely inside the showcases, I find I do have something to say; I mean, there were a lot of bold and charming designs. The lion’s head motif. The cat with diamonds in its eyes and a complacent look on its face. The little heart and diamond design on the face of a watch modeled on a playing card. These are friendly treasures that glint with subtlety.
I have a cat at home. The store attendant who learns of this proposes something they think I might like: a cat’s head ring (249,700 yen) with an onyx gemstone on the front and a three-dimensional cat hidden on the back.
Hey, I’m not “wearing a cat!”—a Japanese expression that means to hide your personality. Is there a way to say that in Italian? I look it up myself. It seems the expression “fare la gatta morta,” to “make like a dead cat,” comes close. I’ll have to ask someone who speaks Italian where this came from.
Incidentally, the watch collection includes a design with a cat on the watch face (125,400 yen). The popular Grip series features a watch, exclusive to Japan, with “Gucci” written in Japanese katakana (253,000 yen).
“Italian women of advanced years who wear eye-catching fashion jewelry around their necks amid wrinkles and blemishes is magnificent.” I remember my senior editor saying this to me. It really left an impression. When I looked up GUCCI after getting home, I learned that Michele’s grandmother was a jewelry collector. Someday, when I’m older, I, too, want to put on GUCCI in grand style and walk the streets of Florence, or Paris—all the great cities of the world.
The last store I visit is the new Patou on the third floor. The brand was originally founded in Paris in 1914 by Jean Patou under his own name and became Patou in September 2018. Guillaume Henry is its artistic director.
When it was first founded, it sought to free women from highly restrictive clothing, offering instead dresses without corsets, shorter skirts, and sporty lines suitable for city wear. The brand took sides with women who wanted to break free of the old customs. The store at GINZA SIX, where an uprightness stands alongside a real sense of freedom, opened with the brand’s largest sales floor anywhere in the world this spring.
Delicate, refined lace; breezy, romantic marine looks, bags with a Mouth of Truth motif. I’m feeling light-headed before the huge array of Patou clothing and accessories. If wishes came true, I’d have it all. I opt to try on a maxi dress made of cotton poplin with a little red flower design (126,500 yen). Ooh, so light! Doesn’t lose its shape! Maybe I’ll grasp a corner of the skirt and take a twirl! I’m all a-flutter again and again. This Frill Strap Sailor Hat (49,500 yen) looks lifted straight from a film by Agnès Varda, the Paris-based filmmaker. These days, you don’t see many hats shaped like this. I reach for it without thinking and put it on. The subtle blend of strangeness and beauty are so pleasant I can’t help but grin to myself.
I clearly see the affection of the brand’s new director, Guillaume, for the ‘unusual within the everyday’ and ‘something with a little frivolity.’ The look is elegant—you want to hold your head high—but there’s also a marvelously askew appeal that appears imported directly from a dream or fantasy. The items here radiate a broadmindedness, as if an adult has set up a ladder leading up to a dream, welcoming with open arms all those who take up the invitation.
The hows and whys of wearing clothing are totally up to you. For me right now, when I’m feeling I may grow accustomed to this condition of having lost so much contact with the world, I try to give myself a lift by recognizing that dialogue with others living near and far isn’t necessarily restricted. Putting on clothes helps me feel as if I’m engaged in conversation with the people who designed and made them.
Text: Yume Nomura(me and you) Photo: Mariko Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
野村由芽
1986年出生。编辑/写文章。在广告公司工作后,2012年进入CINRA公司。 经过文化媒体“CINRA.NET”的编辑、企划、营业,2017年与同事竹中万季一起成立了“祝福活得像自己的女性的生活&文化社区‘She is’”,并担任主编。2021年4月从CINRA辞职,同月,与竹中万季一起成立了株式会社ME&U(me and you,inc.),就任董事。 以个人和个人的对话为出发点,进行向远方的某个人展开想象和谈话的活动。
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