只有男生才能体验到的“太开心了”男士时尚3选 – GINZA SIX | GSIX | 银扎西克斯

GINZA SIX EDITORS

时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。

村上要

GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.14（Men’s Fashion）

在国内和海外采访男士时尚已经10年了。特别是米兰、巴黎、东京的时装秀,每一季都很开心,平时“我想把这种快乐传达给更多的人!”一边这样想着一边工作。所以想在GINZA SIX上bra的也是,教给我们“时尚的乐趣”的设计师品牌时装店。

“莫斯基诺”是杰勒米・斯科特就任创意总监以来,我认为“时尚的乐趣”比任何地方都强烈、更浓地体现出来的品牌。

特别是,一时冲尼斯塔的持有率超过了3成(推定)的iPhone盒子,传达了伪装成零花钱有限的年轻人的乐趣,每次打电话都会很开心,和朋友的对话也很热烈,成为了大家的交流和交流的契机变成了。

GINZA SIX的店铺里,摆放着世界上3个模仿夹克的巨大架子,陈列柜里摆着用纸箱做的熊先生的皮革口袋,果然还是“时尚很开心!”能体验到这样的感觉。

熊的口袋妖怪,一方面用皮革来表现瓦楞纸板上的阴影,另一方面也装扮成“铁饼”切成凹凸不平。也许会被骂,“我在拼命地做笨蛋”。这样的“拼命的笨蛋”是“时尚真开心!”我认为这是最有效的传达方法。

“健佐”也是为了努力传达“时尚的乐趣”而奋斗的品牌。

几年前,“KENZO”的logo和老虎主题的运动员问世时,从采访创意导演乌贝尔特·利昂之后,完全成为了这个品牌的俘虏。

现在logo作为“Ins映照”的道具已经充满了,但是在还没有很多的时候提出logo道具的理由时,乌贝尔特告诉我们他学生时代的事情。“对于在乡下大学上学的我来说,90年代的logo T恤是很憧憬的。然后第一次穿袖子的时候,我很兴奋地说‘啊,这样我也加入了时尚的人’。”罗克斯威特虽然想打扮得打扮却不太清楚,但是却悄悄地伸出了手,希望得到大家认可的现在的男人。每次穿袖子都会有自信的衣服。让我们重新认识时尚的力量。

“地下套”和“莫斯基诺”和“健佐”相比,气氛可能有点不同。但是这个品牌,正因为是Jonio先生(设计师高桥盾)的自然,所以符合时代潮流的姿态真的很舒服。

例如,17年春夏的主题是表示“即兴”的“IMPROVISATION”。很奇怪的是“想穿的衣服。西服的解释是委托给穿衣服的人本人”的想法(我们称之为“sponentias”)重合。看了乔尼奥的收藏品,就能看到现在的社会,以及活在当下的男人对衣服所追求的东西。

在GINZA SIX的商店里,排列着2016年开始的乔尼奥想要个人穿的线条“The Shepad under罩”。胸前不像是“底罩”(!?)、可爱羊的主题。大人的男人很自然,穿着这样的衣服穿袖子很开心。

其他适合礼物的小物件,也会告诉大家“时尚的乐趣”哦。

Text：Kaname Murakami Photos：Naoki Yamashita Edit：Yuka Okada

Ten short years have passed since I began covering men’s fashion, both here in Japan and overseas. The fashion shows each season in Milan, Paris, and Tokyo are always so thrilling I can barely contain myself. I think of my job as telling as many people as possible, as often as I can, what great fun fashion is. So, it makes sense I’d find excitement in wandering about GINZA SIX. The designer brand boutiques here have so much to teach us about the fun of fashion.

Since making Jeremy Scott its creative director, Moschino, I think more than any other brand, has become a bold and lively embodiment of the fun of fashion.

Their iPhone cases, which at one point were owned by an estimated 30 percent of all fashionistas, convey the fun of dressing up even to young people whose funds are limited. They make every call that much more exciting; they make conversations with friends that much livelier. It’s something that helps generate real emotion and deeper communication.

The GINZA SIX store has a giant shrine-like display in the shape of a motorcycle jacket, said to be one of three anywhere in the world. Another showcase displays bear-shaped leather pochettes with leather fashioned to look like cardboard. Clearly, then, we encounter here the experience of fashion as fun.

The bear pochettes’ cardboard-like wrinkles are realistically re-created in leather. The cuts are rough to convey a casual, carefree flair. Some people may find this annoying or infuriating, but Moschino does their absolute best to be ridiculous. I believe working hard to be ridiculous is the most effective way to convey the “fashion is fun!” message.

KENZO is another brand that does everything it can to communicate the fun of fashion.

Since interviewing the brand’s creative director Humberto Leon several years ago, when the brand launched a sweatshirt with the KENZO logo and a tiger motif, I’ve been a bewitched and captive ambassador for this brand.

The highly Instagram-able logo has blown up now. Before, when the logo was less well known, I interviewed Humberto about his reasons for creating something with a logo. He mentioned his days as a student. “I went to college in a rural area, and I was really enamored with the logo T-shirts of the 1990s. So, the first time I tried one on, I found it tremendously exciting, that I was now among the fashionable.” The logo sweatshirt lends a helping hand to guys now who want to be stylish—want to attract admiration—but don’t really know how to manage this. It confers a confidence every time you put your arms through the sleeves. It’s a reaffirmation of the power of fashion.

UNDERCOVER has a somewhat different feel than Moschino or KENZO, but the brand’s stance of adapting to the trends of the time, precisely because it’s the natural inclination of the brand’s designer Jonio (Jun Takahashi), makes you feel just right.

For example, the items for Spring/Summer 2017 were based on the theme of improvisation, which fit in with our recent thinking: “Wear what you want to wear. What the clothes mean is up to the person wearing them,” which we call spontaneity. Looking at Jonio’s collection, you can see what today’s society and what men living today are looking for in clothing.

At the time of my visit, the GINZA SIX store featured the Shepherd UNDERCOVER line, launched in 2016. This line is based on clothes Jonio would personally want to wear. There’s an adorable little lamb on the chest that’s somewhat un-UNDERCOVER-like (!?). Grownup men just being themselves will enjoy putting on a shirt like this.

The store also has various small items that make perfect gifts. They, too, have small lessons to teach in the fun of fashion.

Text: Kaname Murakami, Photos: Naoki Yamashita, Edit: Yuka Okada

村上要

WWD JAPAN.com主编。1977年出生。东北大学毕业后,进入静冈新闻社,作为编辑局社会部记者采访了事件、事故、审判等。因个人原因退休后,在纽约的州立时尚工科大学(F.I.T.)学习时尚新闻等。在当地“穿普拉达的恶魔”生活后回国。进入INFAS出版社,曾任“时尚新闻”主编、“WWD日本”主编代理等职务,2017年4月开始现职。

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