GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
这里有“世界唯一的体验”的特别钟表店 A Home to Exclusive Watch Stores That Offer Experiences Available Nowhere Else
篠田哲生
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.51
银座是世界上罕见的“钟表之街”。既有豪华梅森和手表品牌的时装店,也有只收集名品的正规钟表销售店,还有古董手表的名店。关于手表,虽然是没有的,但是GINZA SIX却有着不同的。为什么这么说呢,因为有独一无二的钟表店,能够“享受时间”。据说世上是从物品消费转移到消费的,但是GINZA SIX的话,无论是“物”还是“事”都能得到两种好处。
那么,首先要去的是6楼。说到6楼,大家都很熟悉“银座茑屋书店”,而手表爱好者则走向它。书店内的“RICHARD MILLE LIFESTYLE LABORATORY”是只生产数千万日元级手表的极致手表品牌“利夏尔”的宣传商店。虽说是“商店”,但却不卖手表,而是在世界各地举办的与利夏尔·米尔相关的活动和活动的世界上唯一的景点。
不管怎么说,利夏尔·米尔和活跃在网球、田径、F1、高尔夫等领域的运动员成为了“家庭”,并且还提供汽车活动和现代艺术的支持。了解这些多方面的活动是这个“生活方式实验室”的职责。采访日是主办方,展示了担任主要赞助商的古典汽车竞赛“鲁曼古典音乐”。这是从品牌创始人利夏尔·米尔是世界级古典汽车收藏家开始的活动。我也去过法国的家,在装修仓库的车库里,有数十辆名车停在那里。其中最让我吃惊的是,在超名车午餐A·斯特拉托斯去附近买面包的小故事。我想起了听到一个超高端的故事,说门的安全帽箱正好适合打篮球盒。
顺便说一下,这个展览几天后将展示改为高尔夫。要了解品牌的势头和活动的最前线,检查这里是最好的。而且万一想要手表的话,就去附近的两个时装店GO!是的。(听说真的有这样购买的人)
接下来是回到一楼去“西铁城FLAGSHIP STORE TOKYO”。店铺位于三原大道和咨询公司大街的十字路口,馆内无法直接进入。但是正因为如此,宽敞的店内有着安定的氛围,能够悠闲地接受手表的说明是很大的好处。
这里不仅有西铁城品牌,旗下的海外手表品牌也在展开中。实际上西铁城集团正在推进全球化,包括瑞士和美国的有力品牌在内,拥有广泛的手表。
其中最引人注目的是“阿诺德&桑”。其实这里是世界上唯一的名牌时装店。品牌的起源在18世纪末的英国,继承了成功实现船舶用海洋高精度手表量产化的钟表师乔恩·阿诺德及其儿子确立的手表制作技术。
除了阿诺德和圣以外没有其他的特征是,对于一个模型采用了一种运动。因此,机构和设计完美地连动着。这种细节让人萌萌的是手表狂的性。而且因为一年只生产700~800瓶的稀少品,所以像这样拿在手上欣赏也是非常宝贵的经验。
这是今年的新作手套(¥1,780000※以下全部不含税价格)。竟然是半球状的地球仪24小时绕一周,显示全世界现在的时间。可以充分享受个性和独创性的机制。
乘坐西铁城旁边的自动扶梯上2楼,最后去“FRANCK MULLER GENEVE”。说到弗兰克穆勒,对于不太熟悉手表的人来说,这是一个“华丽设计的手表品牌”,对于钟表爱好者来说是“建立了许多复杂机构的实力派”的印象。但是对我来说却是“享受时间的品牌”。时针跳跃,针停止,编入轮盘等,享受流逝的时间,讴歌人生的积极哲学的品牌。
在这里想看的是时装店里面的家庭收藏品“弗兰克穆勒Future”的环节。
实际上在弗兰克穆勒扩大了“享受时光”的哲学,并致力于充实在家放松的时间。在网上也可以买到,但是在这里几乎可以看到全收藏。这也是世界上唯一的。
因为是以手表索引中使用的拜占庭数字为主题,所以谁都能知道“弗兰克穆勒”。因此,礼物需求的人气也很高。正好在找对最近结婚的朋友的祝贺,所以检查香槟杯(¥17000)。数字是用三明治做的。
当然,男士模特和女模特都很丰富。但是陈列着普通的钟表店里看不到的超贵的复杂手表。
顺便说一下,这次拜读的吉加图鲁比昂竟然是3,100万日元!! 图尔比昂这个机构是为了取消重力的影响,将脱进机这个零件群整个旋转的机构,很多人都会被其动作所吸引。而且这个模型的构造完全可以看到构造的滑板设计,所以设计、制造、组装都非常困难。能看到这样稀有的手表也是特别的体验。顺便说一下,这种水平的表是在里面的VIP房间接待客人的,所以趁着采访潜入VIP房间。还推出了特别有名的马隆古拉斯和香槟。
最后在附设的“弗兰克穆勒糕点师”购物。把这个作为慰问品带到采访处的话会很开心的吧。
用齿轮和发条再现从太阳和月亮中诞生的“时间”这个概念的机械式手表是人类创造出来的最高峰机械。因此,不仅仅是时尚性地享受,也有了解的乐趣。GINZA SIX是一个充满好奇心时钟的地方,“时间是什么?””的答案。
Text:Tetsuo Shinoda Photos:Yoshinori Eto Edit:Yuka Okada
Ginza is among the world’s rare watch districts. In addition to luxury maisons and brand boutiques, it’s home to official watch retailers who carry the finest timepieces and stores renowned for antique watches. While the district itself offers every kind of watch imaginable, GINZA SIX has a different flavor: It’s home to unique watch stores that choose to emphasize timepieces as experience and enjoyment. The world is said to be shifting from the consumption of things to the consumption of experiences. GINZA SIX offers both.
The first store I visit is located on the sixth floor, where the renowned Ginza Tsutaya Books is located. Watch aficionados will make a beeline to one particular part of this bookstore, the RICHARD MILLE LIFESTYLE LABORATORY. Richard Mille is a high-end watch brand that produces exclusively timepieces priced in the tens of millions of yen. This store is a promotional location for the brand; it’s not an actual store, as such, selling watches. Rather, it’s the only place anywhere dedicated to announcing Richard Mille events and activities around the world.
Richard Mille’s sponsorships in sports like tennis, athletics, F1, and golf are characterized by the concept of family relationship with athletes. The brand also promotes automotive events and modern art. The role of the Lifestyle Laboratory is to spread the word about the brand’s diverse activities in these and other spheres. On the day of my visit, I see a display for the Le Mans Classic, a classic car race hosted by the brand and for which it serves as the principal sponsor. The event goes back to M. Richard Mille, the founder of the brand and a world-renowned collector of classic cars. I’ve actually visited his home in France, where he has several dozen famous cars stored in barn converted into a garage. Perhaps what surprised me most was that he drove a Lancia Stratos, a really well-known car, to go buy bread. The helmet box in the door, he remarked, had the perfect dimensions for storing a baguette. The luxury and exclusiveness of this lifestyle stunned me.
This display, apparently, was scheduled to give way to one on golf in a few days. This is the ideal place to get a feel for the brand’s energy and the frontlines of its activities. If you should actually want to buy a watch, you can head to the two boutiques nearby (I heard some have actually purchased a watch in this way.)
My next stop is the CITIZEN FLAGSHIP STORE TOKYO, back on the first floor. The store is located at the intersection of Mihara Street and Kojunsha Street. Its layout is such that it can’t be accessed directly from inside GINZA SIX. But this actually gives the spacious store a relaxed atmosphere. A big draw of this location is that visitors are welcome to get leisurely accounts of the watches.
The store sells not just Citizen-branded watches, but foreign watch brands owned by the company. Growing increasingly global, the Citizen Group in fact offers a wide range of watches, including well-respected Swiss and American brands.
What catches my eye is Arnold & Son. In fact, this is the marque’s only brand boutique in the world. With roots in England at the end of the 18th century, the brand inherits the watch-making knowhow acquired by John Arnold and his son, who established a lucrative enterprise mass-producing high-precision maritime watches for use on board ships.
A unique characteristic of Arnold & Son is that each model has its own specially-designed movement. The mechanism and design are in perfect harmony. My love for details like this is what makes me a devoted timepiece fan. And because the watches are rare, with only 700-800 produced each year, the opportunity to handle and examine them in this way is priceless.
This is the Globetrotter, a new product for this year (1,780,000 yen; all prices listed before tax). It features a half-globe that rotates once every 24 hours and displays the current time at different locations around the world. It incorporates a unique and creative mechanism. It’s really satisfying.
I take the elevator next to Citizen to the second floor to my final destination: FRANCK MULLER GENEVE. Among those who don’t know that much about watches, Franck Muller is known as a watch brand associated with exquisite designs. For watch enthusiasts, the brand is known for its numerous complications. For me, it’s a brand that lets me enjoy time. On certain watches, the hands jump or stop. Others replicate a roulette wheel. The brand is based on a positive philosophy: to mark and enjoy the passage of time and to celebrate life.
Here I’d like to draw your attention to the home collection corner (Franck Muller Future Form) at the back of the store.
Franck Muller promotes its philosophy of enjoying time while focusing on its home collection (a range of products for use in the home) as a means of enhancing time spent relaxing at home. The products can also be purchased online, but here you can view almost the entire collection. It’s the only place anywhere in the world where you can do so.
The items feature the iconic Byzantine numerals featured on the watches, allowing anyone to tell they’re from Franck Muller. This is apparently also making them popular gifts. Since I’m on the lookout for something to give to a friend who just got married, I checked out this champagne glass (17,000 yen). The numerals are sandblasted into the glass.
There are, of course, many men’s and ladies’ watches here. But also on display are valuable watches of complications you would never encounter at an ordinary watch store.
This Giga Tourbillon I spot sells for a cool 31 million yen! The Tourbillon mechanism involves the revolution of all the escapement parts to cancel out the effects of gravity, something quite a few people find endlessly fascinating. This model is of the skeleton type, in which the entire movement is visible, a design choice that makes production and assembly incredibly challenging. A glimpse of such a rare watch is yet another special experience. Handling watches at this stratospheric level takes place in a VIP room at the back. I take advantage of the perks of being on assignment to take a look inside this VIP room, where I’m served the brand’s famous marrons glacés and champagne.
At the end of my visit, I did some shopping at the Franck Muller patisserie, which is attached to the store. I will give what I buy as a gift for the people I meet for business purposes, much to their delight, as always.
Mechanical watches use gears and springs to track the passage of time, the sense of which emerges for us from the movements of the sun and the moon. They are perhaps the most important devices devised by humankind and provide enjoyment not just as fashion articles, but as a source of knowledge. GINZA SIX is the place to go to satisfy intellectual curiosity about timepieces—a place to find still more answers to the question, “What is time?”
Text: Tetsuo Shinoda Photos: Yoshinori Eto Edit: Yuka Okada
篠田哲生
经过被称为“青少年圣经”的讲谈社《Hot Dog PRESS》独立。从手表专业杂志到时尚杂志、商务杂志等40多家媒体企划、执笔时钟报道。他是从钟表专门学校毕业的实践派,每年还会进行几次瑞士采访。著有《成功者为什么会被乌布罗的手表吸引》。
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