GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
脊梁挺直,但不伸直。能得到愉快刺激的地方 Comfort and Inspiration from Reaching Without Overreaching
小泽匡行
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.37
对于把青春献给街头文化的自己来说,在涩谷和原宿发现必要的东西是标准。但是长大后,想要的东西和适合的衣服的价值和基准会随着环境的变化而扩大或极端狭窄,会有很大的变化。一边肯定自己的时尚原体验,一边享受现在时尚的人,我觉得时尚很棒。换句话说,不是德鲁鲁。GINZA SIX在街头相遇,在我心中成长的品牌们,在与豪华和生活方式相同的空间里,提出了成人街上应有的时尚建议,不仅仅是逞强,还能找到真正的伪装模式。在这三家店里闲逛。
首先是索夫。这里有“索夫网”、“制服扩充”、“F.C.R.B.”三个品牌。已经是17年来的粉丝了。关于“sofnet”,在商品目录的制作上受到了约10年的照顾,我一直在观察时代的空气的同时不断变化。工作人员也说,现在几乎没有知道和足球文化密切相关的联系,但是我还是到处散发着香味。儿子的足球领队和观战占据了休息日的大部分,成为了更亲近的品牌。
采访时刚刚发布的《凡士》SK8 MID(JPY¥14,000※以下全部不含税价格)。高发和低头的OLD SKOOL是固定的,但是在日本很少见的中场镜头是重点。以前是去美国出差时经常买的东西。高跟鞋的拉链是“索夫网”的象征性细节,是脱鞋真的容易穿的另一种模式。写这篇原稿的时候查了一下,网上很快就卖完了。后悔应该更加珍惜在店里一期一会的相遇。
加入了季节风格的颜色和花纹的基础服装,虽然很简单,但是在想要玩的时候很方便。索夫公司成立已经快20年了。非常成熟的商品齐全了。在“F.C.R.B.”中,休息日的用途很多,还有“Helinox”的椅子(¥19,000)、“科尔曼”的空调箱(\6000)、“堆栈”的收纳水桶(\3800)等。顺便说一下,水桶现在还是法国制造的。
接下来是好莱坞先生。这里与其说是怀念过去,不如说是引导现在在哪里的品牌。不浪费,商品衬托出来的内部装饰,与凝聚世界观的表参道旗舰店倒不如说是完全相反的情趣,但是对于大人来说是非常容易看到的结构。
收银台前放着大的Popuri和其他店一样稳重地放置着,我很在意这是哪里的什么。听说这是一个好机会,果然还是在佛罗伦萨最古老的药店那边。
设计师尾花先生在意的各种各样的采访机会,在自己参与的媒体中有很多,但总是非常参考。我在《N.好莱坞》中最喜欢的是,对旧衣服造诣很深的尾花先生风格的复古档案和现代素材的组合。这样的想法让人觉得很有品位。最近,指定外纤维、丝绸以及优质的羊毛很显眼。休闲和高级感的平衡,对于大人的日常服装来说非常舒适。今天穿的“格拉米奇”的别点内裤(\32,000)也是使用纤细柔软的羊毛。因为工作试穿了藏青色,因为太容易而感动所以买了,但是今天知道还有黑心,所以想买了。
说到“N.好莱坞”,运动鞋的选择也很喜欢内行。能感受到自己擅长的军方要素的新平衡990(JPY¥25000),用皮革新装的别订购的“顶级汽水”(¥14,000),也非常适合夏天大人的脚下。舒坦上面摆着logo,是特别规格。本季在品牌上看到了美国特莱德的精华。我认为这是基于此选择的。
最后,去最近很在意的玉川堂。听说正好3月青山的店铺将举办用铜板制作书签的研讨会,我很感兴趣。新潟县是燕市的老字号,继承了200年敲打一块铜板的“锤起铜器”的传统技术。燕三条的传统工艺也是日本屈指可数的制造产地燕三条的传统工艺,其中尤其是在世界上知名度很高的品牌。与路易威登集团的香槟品牌和汽车的马自达合作等,向现代广泛传达了历史证实的无形文化财产的价值。
遗憾的是,因为是不接受酒的体质,所以比起酒器更要茶具。不是敲着伸展,而是一边敲打一边揉成团缩小的高度技术,工匠的直觉也是值得信赖的。而且,最重要的是玉川堂的色彩。前几天,我去拜访益子烧的时候,看到盐烤的美丽蓝色后,就被蓝色容器所俘虏了。虽然制作东西的方法和想法不同,但也是对玉川堂的兴趣在我心中变大的契机。
这个蓝色,听起来首先用硫化钾涂黑,晒干打磨,然后用彩色水煮沸的程度就会变蓝。工作人员的热心且细致的说明完全打动了我的心,买了适合入门的蓝色茶壶(JPY¥24000)。
最近,在南德遇到了无农药栽培的威尔维纳的香草茶,在工作间隙喝酒是一个小小的乐趣。我想在其中加入取出保存在这个茶壶里的叶子这样漂亮的动作。
GINZA SIX开业已经过了一年,在久违的悠闲时光中享受了。刚开始就感觉到那种热闹而感到空气清淡,比起逞强,更能感受到寻找自己喜欢的东西的感觉。为了重新审视自己喜欢的东西,在这里得到愉快的刺激,也许也是个好大人度过休息日的方法。
Text:Masayuki Ozawa Photos:Yuichi Sugita Edit:Yuka Okada
I was obsessed with street culture when I was in my adolescence, so I typically found what I needed in Shibuya or Harajuku. Now that I’m an adult, the values and standards that govern what I want and what I believe suits me vary significantly, depending on the setting, whether liberal or quite conservative. It’s wonderful to see people enjoying today’s fashions while at the same time affirming their own formative fashion experiences; that’s something I find very stylish. In short, I’m for things de facto over things de jure. At GINZA SIX, in the same spaces as luxury and lifestyle brands, I now find that the brands I encountered and loved on the street are offering fashion for the streets that adult tread. It’s not about reaching beyond yourself. You really can discover some truly de facto standards. Today, I visited three boutiques with this in mind.
The first is SOPH., which carries three brands: SOPHNET., uniform experiment, and F.C. Real Bristol. I’ve been a fan of the brand for 17 years. For SOPHNET. in particular, I’ve helped produce its catalogs for some 10 years, so I’ve seen the continuing evolution of the brand in pursuit of the contemporary. A store staff mentions that the brand has close connections to soccer culture, something few customers know today. But to me the influence is evident here and there. My time off these days is almost entirely spared for taking my son to soccer games or watching his team play, so it’s something that draws me even closer to the brand.
These Vans SK8-Mid (14,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) had just been released at the time I was doing the legwork for this piece. The high-cut and low-cut Old Skool are standard, but the mid-cut, which you don’t see much in Japan, is worth noting. I used to buy these a lot when I’d go on business trips to the US. This custom model features SOPHNET.’s trademark heel zipper, something that makes them truly easy to put on and take off. I looked online later as I wrote this piece; by that time, they were sold out everywhere. I regret missing out and realize I need to see these encounters as once-in-a-lifetime opportunities.
The basic apparel items in seasonal colors and patterns are convenient when you want to look simple but add a little fun to your look. It’s been almost 20 years now since SOPH. was established, and the brand has grown up quite a bit. The F.C. Real Bristol brand offers custom items like the Helinox chair (19,000 yen), Coleman cooler (6,000 yen), and a stacksto storage bucket (3,800 yen) for which you can imagine a thousand weekend uses. Incidentally, even now, the bucket is made in France.
Next, I go to N.HOOLYWOOD, a brand concerned more with locating the contemporary than with nostalgia. A no-frills interior highlights the products; a stark distillation of the brand’s worldview, it’s the polar opposite of the Omotesando flagship store. But, for adults, the boutique here makes everything easy to view.
Just like at the other N.HOOLYWOOD stores, there’s a large potpourri in front of the cash register. I’d always wondered about this, so I take the opportunity to ask. Fascinating as it is, the potpourri is from the oldest apothecary in Florence, Italy.
The publications I’m involved with often report on various things that interest brand designer Daisuke Obana, and what catches his eye is always very inspiring. What I like most at N.HOOLYWOOD is the combination of modern materials and a vintage archive that embodies the individuality of Obana, a designer with a deep knowledge of vintage clothing. You can sense his good taste in some of the striking recent decisions made regarding materials: unspecified fibers, silk, and high-quality wool. The brand’s balance of casual and class creates the perfect level of comfort for everyday adult wear. I notice that the Gramicci custom pants (32,000 yen), which I happen to be wearing today, are made from a fine soft wool. I tried on a navy pair of these on another assignment and was so struck by the comfort I bought them; today, I learned they come in black, too, so I’m considering another pair.
N.HOOLYWOOD, in passing, offers a selection of sneakers beloved of those in the know. The New Balance 990 (25,000 yen) has a military feel, which is one of the brand’s proud themes, and the custom Top Sider (14,000 yen) has been redone in leather; they’re both perfect for adult feet this summer, offered as a special selection with the tongues of shoes featuring a brand logo. The brand this season exhibits hints of the essence of American Trad, a theme on which I think these choices are based.
Lastly, I head to Gyokusendo, a store I’ve been interested in lately. I’d heard its Aoyama store was offering a workshop in March on making a copper bookmark, something that piqued my interest. Traditional techniques for hand-hammered copperware, formed from a single sheet of copper, have been passed down for 200 years at this long-standing proprietor from Tsubame, Niigata Prefecture. Hand-hammered copperware is one of the traditional crafts of the Tsubame-sanjo district, which is also one of Japan’s premier manufacturing areas. It’s where many of the Apple products I love are polished and where SUWADA nail nippers are made. The Gyokusendo brand is particularly well-known globally. The brand has collaborated with the champagne Louis Vuitton Group brand and with automaker Mazda, among others. Hand-hammered copperware has been designated an intangible cultural property of Japan, and the history and aesthetics embodied in this copperware are now being broadly communicated to the contemporary world.
Unfortunately, I can’t drink alcohol, so I opt for tea ware over sake ware. The copper isn’t actually pounded and stretched; it’s rounded and shrunk while being hammered. It’s a sophisticated technique that depends in part on the artisan’s intuitions. Above all, Gyokusendo’s colors are beautiful. I did some research on Mashiko pottery not too long ago and saw the beautiful blue color that comes from salt-firing, and I’ve been under the spell of blue vessels ever since. The methods and approaches of the two crafts differ, but this recent experience heightened my interest in Gyokusendo.
I’m told the brand’s blue is produced by coloring the vessel black with potassium sulfide, then drying and polishing the vessel, then finally by boiling the vessel in colored water in a subtle manner. I find myself inspired by the staff member’s passionate and detailed explanation and purchase a blue tea canister (24,000 yen), something just right for a beginner.
I’ve recently come across an herb tea featuring organic verbena grown in southern Germany, and drinking it during downtimes at work is among my little pleasures. To this small ritual, I now get to add the sophisticated maneuver of removing tea leaves stored in this stylish container.
A year has passed since GINZA SIX first opened. I enjoyed a leisurely visit there today for the first time in a while. On my first visit, the air amid all the hustle and bustle felt strained and thin; this wasn’t the case at all this time. This time it struck me as a world to go looking for true-to-life things, that I myself like, with no sense of an obligation to reach beyond. I was also pleasantly inspired to reexamine the things I love, which is perhaps a good way for an adult to spend a day off.
Text:Masayuki Ozawa Photos:Yuichi Sugita Edit:Yuka Okada
小泽匡行
2001年开始在大学就读期间,开始自由打火机活动。现在除了杂志《UOMO》、《MEN’S NON-NO》等的编辑外,还在广告和目录上进行活动。著作有以运动鞋文化发展历史为证言编纂的《东京运动鞋史》和日语监修的《SNEAKERS》。以上述的《UOMO》为首,在《eyecream》、《文春在线》等纸质媒体和网络媒体上投稿连载专栏。
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