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在银座挑战杨志 My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza
增田海治郎
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.88
喜欢时装秀。在这7年里,我亲眼看到了巴黎和米兰的海外男士收藏品、皮蒂·伊玛吉涅·沃摩,以及东京收藏品几乎全部。每年有250次的速度。完全是糊精中毒患者。因为写兰威的评论的机会很多,所以容易被认为是大猩猩的模式派,但是我在1980~90年代的多愁善感的时期,没有和所谓的设计师品牌相交。安特卫普・西克斯和马尔丹・马尔吉拉都很感兴趣,但是对于20多岁的我来说,在精品店里放置的“欧美人知道的名牌商品”更有魅力。
2000年代初,吉田十纪人的“TOKITO”和松下贵宏的“m’s braque”这一具有强烈审美意识的品牌,我开眼了设计师品牌的魅力。从那以后,选择衣服的“可动区域”随着年龄的增长而不断扩大,现在已经完全无法平息了。哈塔奇那里也挑战了那里年轻的家庭品牌,依然对欧美的名牌产品也没有关注。在旧衣服中,对以前死了也不想穿的80年代的DC品牌非常沉迷。虽然每年都有肥大的腰围,但现在还是有兴趣就什么都穿的感觉。
这样快要被破坏的鳟鱼,至今还没有穿过袖子的就是山本耀司的衣服。现在的杨吉的气势真的很厉害。参加巴黎男士表演的人数最多250人。会场入口有好几层没有展位的粉丝,周围有着异样的气氛。无论是世界还是日本,销量都是绝佳的,近年来千禧年层的粉丝不断急剧增加。能让孙子一代沉迷其中的设计师,纵观全世界也只有yoji先生和川久保先生。考虑到自己的父辈,其存在已经与神相近。
但是,杨吉先生的衣服并不是适合任何人的。虽然每个季节都会遇到“想试穿一下”的东西,但是对于不擅长穿一个品牌的自己来说,现在一点也无法坚持下去。……。那个时候脑海中浮现的是“Grandy”的存在。这是一个提出詹德雷斯、艾吉雷瑟风格的品牌,可以说是“降落在地上(运动场)的yoji”。听说有很多经典商品。因此,为了寻找“我的FIRST YOSHINO”,我把脚转向了GINZA SIX的4F。
好久不见在卖场这么紧张了。虽然时尚经验值比较高,但是很难找到适合自己穿的商品,很着急。模特&摄影师服部恭平君、艺人栗原类等等,自己周围的yoji粉丝都是细腻、长完美体系的人。到底能找到适合我粗短的新陈代谢的衣服吗?……。
然后,挑选的是这两件。使用了多伦的低沉感的天竺葵博柏利和TECHNO衬衫(38000日元※以下全部不含税价格)和使用了经典羊毛/聚酯的辣妹的斗篷(76000日元)。看了的感觉,大概没问题穿。自信满满地穿过袖子。
嗯(笑)。我的华德鲁布有几套斗篷,穿得很普通,但是这个最高级难度很高。不要冒险,在这里试着做更基本的家伙吧。向帅哥店员求助。
“在年长的人中也很受欢迎,所以不选择穿的人”。轻而光滑的天塞尔博柏利素材的双重长外套(58000日元),如果把纽扣固定到上面的话会有一种模式的感觉,完全包围我的粗体。这样的话可以在日常生活中使用,从商务服装上面披上也不会有违和感。不管多大年纪,发现新的报纸都很开心。
接着前往的是2F的“wordord Yohjimoto(Dis Code Yimomoto)。1972年出道以来,颠覆了时尚的既成概念的杨吉先生提出的豪华装饰品品牌。
最初引人注目的是伞的收藏品(128000日元)。拿着就会发出“诶?”这样的声音。中棒和骨头的部分是碳制的,开闭动作的触感非常豪华,难以用笔墨形容。伞部分的材料是高密度聚酯。据说采用特殊的织物结构,水滴像莲叶一样断裂。怎么了! 价格含税超过14万日元,非常棒,但这一天尽管是平日的傍晚,还是已经卖出了两瓶。GINZA SIX的客人也很厉害!
包对我来说难度很高,所以决定逃到首饰上。这个以隈取为主题的小物件盒(39000日元),挂在项链上使用的话会成为造型的重点。
白达摩也很可爱! 左边的智能手机文件夹(39000日元),iPhone自不必说,卡和纸币也能收纳的优秀物品。想带去下次的收藏品采访。
肩上的单挎包给女性的印象很强烈。但是,现在是无性别的时代。如果在情侣和夫妇之间分享的话,会更有趣。
因为和yoji的比赛而疲惫不堪,所以不想干劲地注入油。我和白米饭一样,喜欢炸薯条=炸土豆。在欧洲的家庭里,从大学生时代开始就有必备的电饭锅型的油炸机,以相当的频率制作自制油炸食品。我腰围92厘米的主要原因无疑是因为这家伙。然后,前往的是从正宗比利时引进的B2F法式油炸食品专卖店“AND THE FRIET”。GINZA SIX店不是当场炸,而是小吃形式的干式油炸食品专卖店。
所谓干式油炸食品,简单易懂地说,是Calbi的土豆B的高级版。高级盐湖、紫苏和胡椒、黑松露盐、蜂蜜盐和黄油、安乔比和蒜香等,都是听了就垂涎欲滴的魅惑味道。因为全部都可以在店里试吃,所以请不要客气。虽然哪个都很好吃,但是最好的是黑松露。
还销售能减轻沾满油的罪恶感的饮料。蜂蜜柠檬水(550日元)是控制甜味的味道,清爽。油啊,再见!
购买的是6包用熨斗装的“干式风扇”(3210日元)。不是哪个,而是全部都想吃。今晚是名流的炸猪排!
那天晚上,梦中对yoji先生说:“瘦瘦下来!”一边被这样说着,一边被踢的是秘密。
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(edit81)
I’m a total fashion show addict. For seven years, I went and saw nearly every Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and Milan, Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, and Fashion Week in Tokyo, a pace of some 250 shows a year. I have so many opportunities to write runway reviews, people tend to think of me as a dedicated follower of the high fashion camp. In fact, during my youthful and impressionable years in the 1980s and 1990s, I spent no time whatsoever with so-called designer brands. I was interested in Antwerp Six and Martin Margiela but, in my twenties, I preferred certain brands, known to the cognoscenti in America and Europe, that would be found in mixed label store or boutique.
At the start of the 2000s, I encountered two brands known for their powerful aesthetics: TOKITO by Tokihito Yoshida and m’s braque by Takahiro Matsushita. They opened my eyes to the appeal of designer brands. Since then, as the years have passed, my notion of the possible when selecting clothing has expanded; now it’s completely out of hand. I even willingly accept the challenge posed by domestic brands from young hardly-20 designers. I still really admire designer brands from America and Europe, I would hasten to add. At one time, in the 1980s, I wouldn’t have been caught dead wearing designer brands: now, I’m all over them at vintage clothing shops. My waistline expands every year, which holds me back some, but now I’m into wearing anything I like.
All this is to say I’ve been somewhat inconsistent, but to this day, I’ve never worn Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing. Yamamoto’s reach and power today is amazing. Men’s fashion shows in Paris admit 250 guests at most. Fans without invitations stand waiting in several lines that trail around the venue; the atmosphere is unique. Sales are remarkable both globally and in Japan, with a veritable explosion of millennial fans over the past several years. It’s fair to say Yamamoto and Kawakubo are the only designers anywhere in the world able to enthrall the equivalent of their grandchildren’s generation. Consider that the designer is of my parents’ generation: that speaks to divine powers.
Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes don’t necessarily look good on everyone. I see pieces season after season I really want to wear, though I don’t personally like wearing a single brand and can’t ever make up my mind on what to get. And at such times, Ground Y comes to mind. It offers up an ageless gender-agnostic style; Yamamoto when he’s come back down to Earth, you might say. I’ve also heard the line features numerous perennial standards. So, all this in mind, I head to the fourth floor of GINZA SIX to find my very first Yamamoto.
I haven’t been this excited on a sales floor for a while. I’m among the more experienced when it comes to fashion, but I actually have trouble finding pieces I can actually wear, something that wears on my patience. The Yamamoto fans I know personally, like the model and photographer Kyohei Hattori and model and celebrity Rui Kurihara, are all tall and slender, with ideal figures. How is someone like me, short and rotund, supposed to find fashion that flatters me in particular?
I pick up these two pieces: an asymmetric shirt (38,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) that combines mellow draped Tencel Burberry and Technorama Tengu and a cape (76,000 yen) made from a standard wool/polyester gabardine fabric. Just looking at them convinces me feel like I can wear either, and I try them on with renewed confidence.
Oops. I do have a number of capes in my wardrobe, and I wear them regularly without the slightest hesitation, but the level of difficulty this one presents is off the charts. Let’s quit this adventure and try on something more basic. I ask for assistance from one of the good-looking young attendants.
“This is popular with older people as well. It’s something anyone can wear.” The article being recommended here happens to be this double-breasted long coat (58,000 yen) made from light and smooth Tencel Burberry. Buttoned all the way up, it both emanates high fashion mystique and completely wraps up my portly frame: something actually suitable for daily wear. And it’d go perfectly over a business suit without seeming a stitch out of place. All in all, one of those delightful articles that help you find a new you, even as the years continue to toll.
My next visit is to discord Yohji Yamamoto on the second floor, a luxury accessory brand from Yohji Yamamoto, a designer who’s turned conventional fashion wisdom on its head since his debut in 1972.
I’m drawn first to the umbrella collection (128,000 yen). I lift one and exclaim, involuntarily, “Wow!” It’s startingly light. The shaft and ribs are made of carbon. The feel as it opens and closes is precise, silky, and luxurious beyond description. The canopy is high-density polyester. A unique weave is applied to the fabric so that it sheds water like a lotus leaf. Amazing! The price with tax is north of 140,000 yen, so it’s up there, but they tell me they’ve sold two today, an early evening of a weekday. I make a mental note that GINZA SIX patrons are equally amazing.
The difficulty posed by the bags is pretty high for me, so I take refuge in the accessories. Hung around one’s neck, this small case (39,000 yen) with its kabuki motif makes a pleasing accent.
The white daruma is also appealing. The smartphone folder on the left (39,000 yen) fits your iPhone, of course, but would also be great for cards and cash. Maybe I’ll take one on my next Fashion Week assignment.
Shoulder bags that go over just one shoulder tend to be associated with women, but we live a gender-free age. It strikes me it’d be fun for dating or married couples to share a bag.
My attempts at Yamamoto have drained me. It’s not grit I need, but an infusion of fried food. I like pommes frites, or French fries, about as much as white rice, and I’ve had a rice cooker-like fryer, an essential item in European homes, since college. I make homemade fries on a fairly regular basis. These are, beyond a doubt, the major reason for my 92 cm waist. So I head to AND THE FRIET, a French fry specialist on the second belowground floor inspired by authentic Belgian frites. Actually, the GINZA SIX location doesn’t fry the fries on site; they specialize in snackable dried fries.
Put simply, these dried fries are the gourmet version of Calbee’s Jagabee snacks. They come in delectable flavors that make one’s mouth water just listening to the names: Premium Salt, Balsamic & Pepper, Black Truffle Salt, Honey Salt & Butter, and Anchovy & Garlic. You can sample all the flavors at the store and crunch away without hesitation. They’re all really, really good, but my favorite is Black Truffle Salt.
They also sell drinks to take the edge off deep-fried guilt. Honey Lemon Water (550 yen) is refreshing and not too sweet. Adieu, deep fry frets and fears!
I buy DRIED FRIET – OKAMOCHI (3,210 yen), a six pack assortment. I don’t want just one, I want to try them all! It’s celebrity couch potato night for me tonight!
…later that night, in restive dreams, Yamamoto declaims “Lose some weight already!”—and follows up with a startlingly athletic dropkick—but that’s just between you and me.
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(edit81)
增田海治郎
1972年出生。曾任杂志编辑、纤维业界报纸记者,作为自由时尚记者独立。男士和威尔士都是采访对象,覆盖的类型的范围在业界也是首屈一指的。著作中写着“涩鳅做了我。”(讲谈社)。
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