GINZA SIX EDITORS
向牙签在银座挑战 My Attempts with Yohji Yamamoto in Ginza
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.88
不过牙签的衣服不是任何人配得上的种类的东西。对不善于用总计穿一个品牌的自己，虽然"想每个时期穿"的话碰上想的东西可是中的一个现在不下决心……。脑袋在就在那时充满的是"Ground Y"(运动场Ｙ)的存在。用建议作为詹德莱思，鳐鱼吉雷瑟的式的品牌，可以说是"下来在地上(运动场)的牙签"。听说许多经典性的商品一样。因此应该找"我的第一·牙签"，把脚转向了GINZA SIX的4F。
什么继续前往2F的"discord Yohji Yamamoto"(日编码牙签Yamamoto)。自1972年的初次登台以来，是推翻时装的完成概念的牙签建议的奢华装饰品的品牌。
什么最初吸引眼睛伞的收集(128,000日元)。有的话出来"e"和声音轻。中棒子和骨头的部分是碳，并且，工作的感触，到无法形容的程度开关奢华。伞部分的食材是高密度聚酯。正采用特殊的織構造，据说水滴像莲的叶子那样断。是什么惊人！ 这天价格，已含税的14万円越etogo豪华，但是不论平日的傍晚据说2条已经走俏了。GINZA SIX的顾客也惊人！
因为由于与牙签的比赛精疲力竭了所以变得想而不是气势注入油了。我和白色的饭几乎同样地喜欢苹果·do·料=薯条。在欧洲的家庭，从大学生的时候开始有必需品的电饭煲型做油炸食品的人，是由相当的频度做成自制的料。我的92cm的腰身的主主要原因毫无疑问是这个家伙的责任。然后，前往的被原产地比利时做启示的B2F的薯条专营商店"AND THE FRIET"(andozafuritto)。不当场油炸GINZA SIX店，是点心式的理智的料专营商店。
和理智的料，卡乐B nojaga Ｂ的高级，简单地说，版。仅仅只是听了高级盐，黑葡萄醋和纸，黑松露盐，蜂蜜盐和黄油，凤尾鱼和大蒜也好像口水流下来的迷人的味道准备齐全。因为能在店一切尝味道不谢绝所以，拼命地吃。虽然味道哪一个都好可是最是黑松露盐吗？
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada(edit81)
I’m a total fashion show addict. For seven years, I went and saw nearly every Men’s Fashion Week in Paris and Milan, Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, and Fashion Week in Tokyo, a pace of some 250 shows a year. I have so many opportunities to write runway reviews, people tend to think of me as a dedicated follower of the high fashion camp. In fact, during my youthful and impressionable years in the 1980s and 1990s, I spent no time whatsoever with so-called designer brands. I was interested in Antwerp Six and Martin Margiela but, in my twenties, I preferred certain brands, known to the cognoscenti in America and Europe, that would be found in mixed label store or boutique.
At the start of the 2000s, I encountered two brands known for their powerful aesthetics: TOKITO by Tokihito Yoshida and m’s braque by Takahiro Matsushita. They opened my eyes to the appeal of designer brands. Since then, as the years have passed, my notion of the possible when selecting clothing has expanded; now it’s completely out of hand. I even willingly accept the challenge posed by domestic brands from young hardly-20 designers. I still really admire designer brands from America and Europe, I would hasten to add. At one time, in the 1980s, I wouldn’t have been caught dead wearing designer brands: now, I’m all over them at vintage clothing shops. My waistline expands every year, which holds me back some, but now I’m into wearing anything I like.
All this is to say I’ve been somewhat inconsistent, but to this day, I’ve never worn Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing. Yamamoto’s reach and power today is amazing. Men’s fashion shows in Paris admit 250 guests at most. Fans without invitations stand waiting in several lines that trail around the venue; the atmosphere is unique. Sales are remarkable both globally and in Japan, with a veritable explosion of millennial fans over the past several years. It’s fair to say Yamamoto and Kawakubo are the only designers anywhere in the world able to enthrall the equivalent of their grandchildren’s generation. Consider that the designer is of my parents’ generation: that speaks to divine powers.
Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes don’t necessarily look good on everyone. I see pieces season after season I really want to wear, though I don’t personally like wearing a single brand and can’t ever make up my mind on what to get. And at such times, Ground Y comes to mind. It offers up an ageless gender-agnostic style; Yamamoto when he’s come back down to Earth, you might say. I’ve also heard the line features numerous perennial standards. So, all this in mind, I head to the fourth floor of GINZA SIX to find my very first Yamamoto.
I haven’t been this excited on a sales floor for a while. I’m among the more experienced when it comes to fashion, but I actually have trouble finding pieces I can actually wear, something that wears on my patience. The Yamamoto fans I know personally, like the model and photographer Kyohei Hattori and model and celebrity Rui Kurihara, are all tall and slender, with ideal figures. How is someone like me, short and rotund, supposed to find fashion that flatters me in particular?
I pick up these two pieces: an asymmetric shirt (38,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) that combines mellow draped Tencel Burberry and Technorama Tengu and a cape (76,000 yen) made from a standard wool/polyester gabardine fabric. Just looking at them convinces me feel like I can wear either, and I try them on with renewed confidence.
Oops. I do have a number of capes in my wardrobe, and I wear them regularly without the slightest hesitation, but the level of difficulty this one presents is off the charts. Let’s quit this adventure and try on something more basic. I ask for assistance from one of the good-looking young attendants.
“This is popular with older people as well. It’s something anyone can wear.” The article being recommended here happens to be this double-breasted long coat (58,000 yen) made from light and smooth Tencel Burberry. Buttoned all the way up, it both emanates high fashion mystique and completely wraps up my portly frame: something actually suitable for daily wear. And it’d go perfectly over a business suit without seeming a stitch out of place. All in all, one of those delightful articles that help you find a new you, even as the years continue to toll.
My next visit is to discord Yohji Yamamoto on the second floor, a luxury accessory brand from Yohji Yamamoto, a designer who’s turned conventional fashion wisdom on its head since his debut in 1972.
I’m drawn first to the umbrella collection (128,000 yen). I lift one and exclaim, involuntarily, “Wow!” It’s startingly light. The shaft and ribs are made of carbon. The feel as it opens and closes is precise, silky, and luxurious beyond description. The canopy is high-density polyester. A unique weave is applied to the fabric so that it sheds water like a lotus leaf. Amazing! The price with tax is north of 140,000 yen, so it’s up there, but they tell me they’ve sold two today, an early evening of a weekday. I make a mental note that GINZA SIX patrons are equally amazing.
The difficulty posed by the bags is pretty high for me, so I take refuge in the accessories. Hung around one’s neck, this small case (39,000 yen) with its kabuki motif makes a pleasing accent.
The white daruma is also appealing. The smartphone folder on the left (39,000 yen) fits your iPhone, of course, but would also be great for cards and cash. Maybe I’ll take one on my next Fashion Week assignment.
Shoulder bags that go over just one shoulder tend to be associated with women, but we live a gender-free age. It strikes me it’d be fun for dating or married couples to share a bag.
My attempts at Yamamoto have drained me. It’s not grit I need, but an infusion of fried food. I like pommes frites, or French fries, about as much as white rice, and I’ve had a rice cooker-like fryer, an essential item in European homes, since college. I make homemade fries on a fairly regular basis. These are, beyond a doubt, the major reason for my 92 cm waist. So I head to AND THE FRIET, a French fry specialist on the second belowground floor inspired by authentic Belgian frites. Actually, the GINZA SIX location doesn’t fry the fries on site; they specialize in snackable dried fries.
Put simply, these dried fries are the gourmet version of Calbee’s Jagabee snacks. They come in delectable flavors that make one’s mouth water just listening to the names: Premium Salt, Balsamic & Pepper, Black Truffle Salt, Honey Salt & Butter, and Anchovy & Garlic. You can sample all the flavors at the store and crunch away without hesitation. They’re all really, really good, but my favorite is Black Truffle Salt.
They also sell drinks to take the edge off deep-fried guilt. Honey Lemon Water (550 yen) is refreshing and not too sweet. Adieu, deep fry frets and fears!
I buy DRIED FRIET – OKAMOCHI (3,210 yen), a six pack assortment. I don’t want just one, I want to try them all! It’s celebrity couch potato night for me tonight!
…later that night, in restive dreams, Yamamoto declaims “Lose some weight already!”—and follows up with a startlingly athletic dropkick—but that’s just between you and me.
Text: Kaijiro Masuda Photos: Yuya Kobayashi Edit: Yuka Okada（edit81）