GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
接受贪婪的大人一代的GINZA SIX的包容力 The all-encompassing nature of GINZA SIX from the perspective of a member of the greedy adult generation
古泉洋子
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.72
平成马上就要结束了,却还是充满欲望的笨拙的50女。无论在什么方面,选择的基准是否会觉得有趣,因为讴歌自由,以本能活下去,所以不能局限于常识性的成熟女性形象的框架。…。
作为时尚编辑工作了很长一段时间的工作,但是在主战场上也有协调性和时尚,优雅和休闲感,豪华和现实等两极之间还在动摇。近来,原本就贪吃的样子加快了,以酒为中心!为了寻求各种各样好吃的东西,在世界里徘徊的欲望很深。
但是,像我这样贪婪又独特的大人到底在哪里买东西呢。说实话,很为难。百货商店是正统派的成熟一代,精品店是以好女人为目标的时尚妈妈,车站大楼是意识到受欢迎的30代女性……虽说东京广阔,但真的没有合适的店啊!!(和某放大镜广告一样)。笑)我早就这么想,GINZA SIX是一个能够接受这种任性个性派的空间。试着把身体托付给他吧。
最先前往的是我个人喜欢的“N°21”。是阿勒山德洛德拉卡亲手制作的米兰品牌。带领着新一代的意大利模式,让我满足了我想要一个成熟的人,优雅却很满足我想要两极的喜好。
这一天也是过了2年常用的“N度21”的格子大衣。一进店里首先映入眼帘的是同一材质的短大衣(145000日元※以下,全部不含税价格)。这个材料很热,反正轻。我们这一代人的材料很重,很难脱下,这种感觉已经不够了! 春天又是备受瞩目的鲜花印刷,色彩鲜艳,不过因为底色是黑色的,对于黑发的亚洲人来说也很容易尝试。
对春天之前的各种物品进行检查,发现了最喜欢的东西! 小时候是索非亚·洛伦,长大后是莫妮卡·维蒂,一贯推荐意大利女演员的话能明白吗?60~70年代这些女演员穿的衬衫(64000日元)。不过是地中海沿岸的别墅,但是绝对不像小姐一样,而是带着神秘的微笑…。一个劲儿地膨胀起来。如果是在东京穿的话,推荐和黄色搭配的卡基内裤,脚下用菠萝加上强大的宽松感。
啊,这个黑色礼服(129000日元)也很漂亮! “N゚21”的图标颜色,粉色米色的领子上可爱的驼色显得格外闪耀。让人感受到怀旧感的手工工作,光是看着就心动了。
接着顺路去的是世界级建筑师进行的现代装修的“BALLY(巴里)”。1851年在瑞士的莎恩威尔特生产丝带,拥有近170年历史的老字号品牌。
鞋子&包包品牌的印象很强烈,丝带?? 也许有很多人会这么想。但是被说成“巴里”,马上想到的就是那红色和白色的“巴里条纹”。仔细想想,瑞士国旗的配色与……是的,是丝带啊。虽然被用于各种各样的道具,但是也有像这样若无其事地分发的拖鞋(78000日元)。试着修一下,虽然很豪华,但是穿起来很轻松。毫无疑问。
那么,为什么“巴里”开始做鞋子呢?创业者卡尔・弗朗兹・巴里因为去巴黎出差而在街上的女性时尚鞋子所吸引,作为给妻子的礼物带回了瑞士。而且被妻子对时尚的审美意识所吸引,产生了很多作品。真是让人感受到爱的小故事啊。春天的新作包“CECYLE(塞西尔)”(240000日元)是冠以爱妻之名的收藏品。从90年代的档案中复刻出来的钻石kilt营造出一种若无其事的高级感。钥匙孔的班级部分是磁铁,可以毫无压力地取出物品。很灵气。
这么说来,春钱包=贴钱包,初春也是换钱包的时期。虽然对运气和方位没什么神经质,但可能是因为欲望太深了吧,钱包就另当别论了。存钱的是什么颜色,哪一天开始使用比较好等等,都很好地输入了。“巴里”也能提升财运的、沉稳的黄色长钱包(56000日元)。
GINZA SIX真的是宽广的,是一个可以轻松光顾的地方。因此,最后去了以前就很在意的“PHILIPPE CONTICINI”。菲利普·康蒂奇尼是法国甜品界的巨匠。
西点师傅高头先生在眼前制作了草莓美味季节限定的巴菲“维利努帕菲”(1800日元)。草莓、牛奶蛋挞奶油、草莓口岸、草莓盐味…巧妙地重叠了好几层。“这是一种将材料纵向层叠的威廉技术,或许每次使用奶油都会放在冰箱里呢”,不由自主地凝视着纤细的工作态度。“是不是太甜了?”虽然犹豫着,但是奶油非常光滑,和草莓的恰到好处的酸味,简直就像饮料一样!胃口。
据说,最近也有很多男性为了寻求巴菲而来店的男性。一个人也可以毫无顾虑地顺路去的柜台也是重点。顺便说一下,我在甜点店里特意选择咸味系。意外的是阿塔利多,比如帕拉三明治之类的!
“番茄和马苏里拉的高福”(2000日元)是以轻快的烤制而成的荞麦茶。简单地说就是华夫饼干。在那里放上番茄和马苏里拉,再加上艾门塔尔、格鲁埃尔、孔蒂三种奶酪。当然手里拿着香槟酒! 是“莫埃·香榭丽舍”(200ml 2400日元)。傍晚如果能以阿佩蒂沃的感觉来享受奢侈的感觉。
GINZA SIX,可怕。像我这样贪婪、执着也很强,被世间的市场营销抛弃,是一个包含着纤细个性派的宝贵空间!
Text:Hiroko Koizumi Photos:Hal Kuzuya Edit:Yuka Okada
I’m a self-indulgent woman in her 50s who remains filled with longing, even as the Heisei Period of Japan’s history draws to a close. In pretty much everything, I base my consumer choices on whether I find the products interesting. Always living by sense of instinct with a lot of freedom, I don’t fit the mold of the image of a commonsense adult woman.
I’ve worked as a fashion editor for a long time. In this field as well, I continue to waver between extremes: conservative and stylish, elegant and casual, luxury and reality. Lately, spurred by intrinsic gluttony, I’ve wandered the world in search of various delicious tastes focusing on good wines and other alcoholic beverages.
But where should an impatient one-of-a-kind avaricious adult like me go shopping? Honestly, this question troubles me. While department stores cater to the orthodox, mature generation; select boutiques cater to the stylish mothers of children seeking to look more attractive; and the stores in railway station complexes to women around thirty conscious of the opposite sex, it’s often struck me that, in all of Tokyo, there’s no place just for me. (I get almost as upset as the man in a famous commercial for reading glasses.) Thinking GINZA SIX might be a space a most demanding individual like me might appreciate, I decided to trust in its everything-under-the-sun vision.
The first store I visit is N˚21. Developed by Alessandro dell’Acqua, this brand’s a personal favorite. Its fashions, which drive the new generation of Italian style, satisfy my own personal desire for two extremes: they’re grownup and innocent, elegant and cheerful.
On the day of my visit, I’m once again wearing my N˚21 checkered coat, which I’ve worn fondly for more than two years. On entering the store, I notice first a short coat made with the same bonding materials (145,000 yen; all prices hereinafter exclusive of tax). Despite the warmth, this fabric is characterized, above all, by its light weight. For those of my generation, apparel made of heavy materials, clothes that are hard to put on and take off, are strictly out of the question. Despite a gorgeously colored flower print that draws attention again this spring, the black base makes it an easy choice for black-haired Asian women to try on.
Checking the transitional collections of various shops for the runup to spring, I discover a favorite. You may recall several Italian actresses, from Sophia Lauren, my idol in childhood, to Monica Vitti in my adult years. This blouse (64,000 yen) looks like something such stars would have worn in the 1960s and 1970s. One fancies wearing it and loitering at a Mediterranean villa, with nonchalance and an enigmatic smile (never like a decent young lady). Wearing this in Tokyo, I’d recommend a more casual look with khaki cargo pants, which go well with yellow, and shoes with a strong python pattern.
This black dress (129,000 yen) is another wonderful item. The collar, in N˚21’s iconic color of pink-beige, sparkles with fetching bijoux embroidery. Just looking at the nostalgic handiwork sets the heart stirring.
The next store I visit is Bally, with its contemporary interior designed by a renowned architect. The long-established brand has a history of almost 170 years since its founding in 1851 as a ribbon manufacturer in Schönenwerd, Switzerland.
Many people might be surprised to learn that this brand, famous for shoes and bags, got its start making ribbons. But among the first things that come to mind on hearing the name Bally is the red and white Bally stripe, a pattern that recalls the colors of the Swiss flag. The stripe motif is used on a wide range of items, appearing on these slipper shoes (78,000 yen) as a casual accent. Trying them on, I find they have a decidedly relaxing feel, even if they’re from a luxury brand. I’m sure I’ll be wearing them a lot.
Bally first began making shoes when its founder, Karl Franz Bally, fascinated by the stylish women’s shoes he saw on a business trip to Paris, took a pair back to Switzerland as a gift for his wife. In a romantic backstory, many of his later footwear products, it’s said, were inspired by his wife’s aesthetic sense of fashion. This bag (240,000 yen) is one of the Cecyle collection, a new line of bags for spring, which bears his beloved wife’s name. A diamond quilt reproduced from the brand’s 1990s archives gives it a casual luxury feel. Ingeniously, the keyhole clasp is magnetized to make it especially easy to put items into the bag and take them out.
Speaking of which, I like to buy a new wallet for spring. While I tend not to pay too much attention to things like omens or good-luck charms, shopping instead just from acquisitive instinct, I find it’s different with wallets. I think of everything—what colors are best for saving money and on what day I should start using a new wallet. At Bally, I inspected a casual yellow wallet (56,000 yen) that looked like it might improve my financial fortunes.
GINZA SIX is vast. Walking from store to store, found myself looking for a cafe with a welcoming feel. That’s why my last stop is Philippe Conticini, a place I’d wanted to visit for a while. Conticini is a master of French pastries.
Right before my eyes, Pastry chef Takato prepares the Verrines Parfait Fraisier (1,800 yen), a limited-edition parfait available only in that special season when strawberries are at their most irresistibly flavorful. This carefully prepared parfait features layer upon layer of strawberries, custard cream, strawberry compote, strawberry sorbet….I watch with fascination as the chef works with scrupulous care, observing the famous Verrines technique of layering the ingredients vertically. The cream is returned to the refrigerator after each use. I feared it might be too sweet; the cream turns out to be smooth and airy. Combined with the acidity of the strawberries, it goes down my throat like a drink.
I’m told many men have been coming here lately for the parfaits. One key point is the presence of a counter where unaccompanied customers can sit at their ease. But when I come to a sweets shop, I like to choose a salty dish. It’s surprising how many sweet shops serve other excellent items as well, like sandwiches at an ice cream parlor.
The tomato mozzarella gaufre (2,000 yen) is based on a lightly baked gaufre made with roasted buckwheat seeds. A gaufre is a kind of waffle. This one is topped with tomato and mozzarella, on top which three cheeses—Emmental, Gruyère, and Comté—are melted. Of course, I hold a glass of champagne in my hand: Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial (200 ml, 2,400 yen). Sipping an aperitif of champagne in the early evening is a wonderful morsel of luxury.
GINZA SIX is an amazing place. It’s a precious spot that caters even to highly individual niche consumers like me, who are greedy, have strong preferences, and tend to be left cold by most marketing efforts.
Text: Hiroko Koizumi Photos: Hal Kuzuya Edit: Yuka Okada
古泉洋子
时尚编辑。从流行杂志到女性杂志,以广泛的目标杂志为中心活跃。在《Numéro TOKYO》中还担任时尚编辑导演。擅长将模式真实地融入其中,著有《用这件衣服再一次闪耀》、《有风格的女人脱离・无可非!87 Fashion Tips》(都是讲谈社)。在GINGERweb(幻冬舍),连载中以爱的斥责男乔班纳洋子笔名将生活方式和葡萄酒相关联的专栏(https://gingerweb.jp)。另外,还参与了EC网站等的时尚指导。
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