GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
每天的舒适感。食物打开的幸福之门 Everyday Pleasures: Food Opens a Door to Happiness
仲山今日子 自由记者
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.111
“诶,吃那个吗?”
到现在为止,有多少这样的反应呢?直到20多年前作为播音员进入了电视台,把重点放在以饮食为中心的文章的工作上,和食物的关系很长。孩童时代对食物的突出好奇心即使长大成人也无法抑制,所以无论什么都说出口,总是会让人不知所措。最近“干了”是在三陆的鲍鱼养殖场吃鲍鱼的饵食的时候。其他还有在坦桑尼亚的小街上闲逛,被遇见的人带去的巴拉克小屋里,被劝去自家制的香蕉酒的时候,也因为“可能会毁掉肚子”的恐惧心理而说。因为,如果错过了这个机会,也许一生都说不出来。如果是超越了人智的美味,那就是一生的不觉。
据说婴儿出生后最先发育的是嗅觉和味觉。从这种根源的角度来看世间,虽然很帅,但只是单纯的将天生的好奇心和贪吃地混合在一起。
“你说说你吃的东西,猜想你是什么样的人吧”布里亚•萨瓦兰说,如果把我这样的杂食读卖巨人传达我的这种杂食的样子,你会怎么评价呢?想起来可怕。
那么,让我们买了这样的贪吃的样子,让我们来看看汇集了银座时尚时尚感的关键词的地方——“GINZA SIX”地下2层新开张的几家新店铺。
主题命名为“每日的优质”。
迄今为止,我去了大约50个国家的旅游市场和超市都对我狂热食物的好奇心。从一端到一端就像是吃得津津有味一样眺望(吃),无论有多少时间都不够的我首先去了“Bio c'Bon”(B2F)。每次去巴黎都会买食材和特产的店,2016年登陆日本。现在在国内开设了26家店铺,最近在全国任何一个城市都可以在网上购买,这是一个好消息。
这家GINZA SIX店是一款能听到天之声“我精选了适合你生活的东西”的选择。特别是在银座地区,有机水果、蔬菜、肉、鸡蛋、乳制品等都很开心。以前说到有机食材店,都是进口干货的干菜,但是这里大约有800个品种是国产的,通过有机认证的商品也很多。日本的有机食品也有这么大的选择,真是感慨万千。
而且…怎么说呢,这个漂亮的白芦笋啊! 甜瓜! 已经是食材本身的压倒性了。秋川牧园的鸡肉吃了植物性饲料,一边悠闲地运动一边成长,是不含水的质,结实的瘦肉色调和奶油色的脂肪的颜色。光看就知道了…你呢…真好吃啊!!!不是买“因为有机食品”,而是因为看起来很好吃所以买,这样一个令人欢欣雀跃的世界正在扩大。特别是蔬菜和水果,在那个时期限定的东西也很多。在意的话不要错过,这就是铁则。
还有调味料类。“有机麻婆之素”(270日元※以下全部含税价格)等帮助系调味料,都是无添加化学调味料的。翻过来里面放了什么? 即使不一一检查,也能放进篮子里的安心感。一般认为添加剂较多的喷墨系敬而远之,但这里的“成套设备”(638日元)是使用有机菜油、杏仁黄油、柠檬汁等制作而成的。乳化剂是向日葵的卵磷脂等,全部都是植物性的。如果一直坚持到这种程度的话,也许可以试着做一周一采用一次采用的“松弛的维根”吧?
也可以说是“大人的扭蛋”,量卖的干果有墨莓、两种果子、发芽坚果等?都是激发好奇心的东西。即使从方块中选择在意的东西,也可以从少量、吃完的20克中买到,非常适合每天健康的零食。不使用光泽材的杏仁巧克力,与烤面包的香味和控制甜味的巧克力相匹配,是大人的味道。
其中也有在日本很难买到的稀有商品。例如,巴布亚新几内亚产的咖啡(1620日元)。据说进口了手摘或精心挑选的皮浆(一粒通常有两个豆子,果实味道比一个更强)。巴布亚新几内亚,因为巧克力的采访访问过,确实是丛林的秘境。恐怕和我一样充满食物的买家,虽然没见过,但是谢谢!
接着,面向脚的是,染上了鱼翅轮廓的白色帘子对面排列着柜台席的“自由之丘荫山楼”(B2F)。在鱼翅老字号“筑紫楼”担任厨师长的荫山健一亲手制作的这家店,开设了专门针对鱼翅面的店,开设了专门针对鱼翅面的店。不用肩膀肘部,品味优质的“轻松豪华”,预感到今后的时代需求会越来越高。
酒也能用玻璃杯轻松享用,所以点了+748日元的“点心和甜品套餐”,酒精适合玻璃杯的火花葡萄酒(968日元),最后是鱼翅拉面这样的小酒菜。
那么,来的鱼翅面(有3种,其中这是特大)和咚100克。盖饭全部被鱼翅覆盖了! 连盖饭的水平线都宽广,一望无际的鱼翅,“映照感”也很出众。酱油和蚝油控制的明亮色调,上面的鱼翅部分是“做10升的汤,使用了10公斤鸡翅”,已经是可以说是“喝鸡翅”的浓厚白汤基础的浇汁,实现了正宗的味道,下面是柚子的清爽鸡汤。面是能品尝到小麦的味道,汤很好地缠绕在一起的浅草开化楼中太的卷面。
轻轻搅拌的话,包裹着浓厚的胶原蛋白包裹着的酥脆的鱼翅和酥脆的面,还有口感清爽的柚子香味追过来,口中扩散开来的是陶然治愈的世界。
不过,请稍等一下。使用的是沙丁鱼,100克的话在专卖店通常应该是1万日元左右。已经低于成本了吗? 即使是特大尺寸也能实现3608日元的合适价格怎么样?
店长伊藤达哉先生说:“和长年的批发商之间的信赖关系和使用胸鳍而不是尾鳍”。实际品尝后的感想是,胸鳍的部分虽然有点薄,但是反而容易解开,很容易吃,和面条融为一体的感觉。好好地充份胶原蛋白,一边咯吱咯吱地吃着套餐甜点的软杏仁豆腐,“其实,带回去专用的还有6种杏仁豆腐。这也是GINZA SIX店限定的哦…”果然店长对恶魔的耳语。怎么说??
而且,制作这种做法的竟然是银座马克西姆·德·巴黎的原第四代厨师长,另一位伊藤正显。说起银座的马克西姆巴黎的第一任厨师长,那就是在法国拥有50多年三星级的“三星球”的皮埃尔·特洛瓦格罗。继承了这一历史的厨师创造出来的…杏仁…豆腐!?
无论吃多饱,当然也不能错过。另外,要求紧急出动!!
和刚才的套餐甜点相比,能感受到法国风味的奶油味道的基础上,加入了五颜六色水果等的GINZA SIX限定杏仁豆腐。问了每天摆在店里的伊藤先生,例如异国情调的“丁香”(842日元)下的紫色果冻,为了着色鲜艳,应用了从菠菜等中提取绿色色素的“叶绿素”手法,从紫卷心菜中提取色素。除此之外,在猕猴桃加上砂糖和薄荷腌制的番茄和麝香葡萄的“猕猴桃&麝香葡萄”(842日元)等,在可爱的外表下,法国料理厨师特有的技能和创意也很好地发挥着作用。
伊藤先生说:“不,每天早上我都在这里亲手做,希望大家能品尝到新鲜度好的东西。”确实,伊藤先生推荐的“草莓”(842日元)也不是成品的纯,而是用新鲜的草莓做的新鲜味道。将来,还想把法国和中华融合在一起的努贝尔西诺的菜单展开。期待!
最后的是《Signifiant Signifié+plus》。说到西尼菲埃因霍温,总店位于世田谷区太子堂的有名店。长时间发酵,高加水,外侧脆脆,内侧粘稠。看到气泡光泽、美丽的切口,不知不觉就会笑嘻嘻的。
那么,加分是什么? 这么说来,在GINZA SIX店不仅能买到面包,还能买到量卖的葡萄酒,我很开心。没错,这里是一家享受面包和葡萄酒幸福的玛丽酒的店。
小麦粉和发酵香味飘散的面包自不必说,志贺先生加入了满满的坚果、干果、香料等的志贺先生的面包,已经被称为下酒菜面包了。
再加上与面包和葡萄酒相配的加阿尔法的味道,根据季节变化而变化的陈列柜里摆放着现在意大利产的巧克力。
小时候,听说在法国巴格特里夹着巧克力的东西是黄鼠狼,虽然很羡慕,但还是想告诉当时的自己。长大后的我,为了奖励自己,在充分加入了红葡萄酒的“panovan”(半·2160日元)里夹着这个“树莓和66%的黑巧克力”(1080日元),和红葡萄酒一起享受。
不仅仅是像葛格洛夫和帕内托尼这样的“点心系”,人气爆棚(1,296日元)也可以放入礼盒(275日元),可以用来自带。
零售葡萄酒以意大利产葡萄酒为中心每月更换,250ml(770日元~)正好是两杯葡萄酒杯。一个人享受也好,买红色和白色两个人一起享受也不错。当然一瓶也能买到。
也就是说,并不是像钻石一样耀眼的光辉,而是像连在一起的珍珠玉一样,平静的幸福一直持续下去。在GINZA SIX上遇到的很多在那一天的时间里贴近的店,静静地满足了我容易“做了”的好奇心。
无论世上怎样的暴风雨,现在这个时间都会过去。那么,我想珍惜我的现在,慈爱地生活下去。不管是晴天还是雨天,在平静的片刻旁边,都会有好吃的东西。我们是用吃的东西做的。精心制作的东西,就是慈爱自己。是啊,布里亚•萨瓦兰小姐?
Text: Kyoko Nakayama Photos: Kanako Noguchi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
“What—you’re going to eat that?”
I don’t know how many times I’ve heard this. From when I got my start at a TV station as an announcer 20 years ago to now, having switched in that time to writing, mainly about food, my relationship with food has been a long one. Even now, as an adult, I find myself unable to restrain my curiosity about food, a trait that goes back to childhood. I’ll put just about anything in my mouth. That inevitably makes some people stop and stare. One of my more recent feats was eating abalone feed at a fish farm in Sanriku. There’s also the time I met someone as I wandered around a village in Tanzania, who invited me back to his hut and served me homemade banana liquor. Even then curiosity trumped trepidations about getting sick to my stomach. Opportunities like this are one-time things—pass on them once, they’ll likely never happen again. And what if the drink had been delicious beyond compare? It would have been the biggest lost opportunity of my life.
When a baby is born, the first senses to develop are smell and taste. Looking at the world through this primordial prism… well, however one would word it, I’m essentially a mix of curiosity and gluttony.
“Tell me what you eat, and I’ll tell you who you are,” said Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. But how would he respond, this titan of gastronomic history, if I told him all the random stuff I’ve consumed? I shudder to think.
So, in full acceptance of myself, as the gourmand that I am, I go to GINZA SIX, a place where all the keywords in Ginza style and sophistication congregate and commingle. I’m visiting some new shops and restaurants on the second belowground floor.
The theme of my visit today is everyday luxury.
I’ve traveled to some 50 countries. Each time, it’s been the markets and supermarkets that have been most accommodating of my maniacal curiosity about food. With intense concentration I take in the view from end to end. No matter how much time I have, it’s never enough. First up today is Bio c’ Bon (B2F). This is a store I visited every time I traveled to Paris to buy food and souvenirs. Bio c’ Bon opened a location in Japan in 2016 and now features 26 locations around the country. Plus, now you can buy online, no matter where you are in Japan. Great news!
The store at GINZA SIX features a lineup of products that a voice from above informs me are absolutely perfect for your lifestyle. It’s great having an extensive selection of organic fruits, vegetables, meats, eggs and dairy products in the middle of the Ginza area, in particular. It used to be that organic food stores stocked mostly imported dry goods, but here I see some 800 items produced in Japan, many certified organic. I’m impressed at the range of organic food available in Japan these days.
Plus…what’s this…splendid white asparagus! melons! The food and produce, it overwhelms me. Akikawa Farm chicken, from chickens raised on plant-based feed and given plenty of space to roam, is packed with fleshy meat that’s not at all watery; the meat is a solid reddish color, and the fat is creamy. Admiringly I address the chicken: You look so divinely delicious! I don’t buy things because they’re organic, necessarily, but because they look so tasty—the sights and sounds dazzle the senses! Much of the fare available here, the fruits and vegetables in particular, is available only for a limited time. If you’re interested, don’t let it go—that’s the ironclad rule.
And then the seasonings. Virtually everything is free of chemical additives, even the additional seasonings like Yuuki Mabo no Moto (270 yen; all prices include tax). You don’t even have to flip the package over to check the ingredients; simply fill up your shopping basket in perfect peace of mind. Spreads usually have lots of additives, reason enough to maintain a circumspect distance, but this Plant-Based Organic Spread (638 yen) is made from ingredients like organic rapeseed oil, almond butter, and lemon juice. All of the emulsifiers, things like sunflower lecithin, are plant-based. They really make every effort—it’s enough to make me want to turn vegan, as so many celebrities have these days—but perhaps casually, maybe once a week.
They also offer dried fruits sold in bulk from machines that look like capsule toy vending machines, only they’re meant for adults. The products offered include Inca berries, two types of dates, sprouted nuts, and more. Everything I’ve never seen before tickles my fancy. No matter what you’re interested in, you can buy it in small one-serving portions of 20 grams—ideal for a healthy one-time snack in the spirit of experiment. The almond chocolate, free of brightening agents, has a grownup flavor, with an aroma of roasted almonds and chocolate that isn’t cloyingly sweet.
The store also features products otherwise hard to find in Japan. For example, coffee from Papua New Guinea (1,620 yen) the store offers is imported hand-picked, and uses hand-selected peaberries (one to a fruit peaberry beans are fruitier than usual two to a fruit flat berry beans). I’ve been to Papua New Guinea to research chocolate, and the forest there is a truly unexplored country. So many thanks to the buyer, whom I’ve never met, but who like me is perhaps a robust gourmand.
Next up is Jiyugaoka Kageyamarou (B2F), where you sit at a counter on the other side of white noren curtains with a black shark fin silhouette. Chef Kenichi Kageyama, who previously worked as a chef at Tsukushiro, the renowned shark fin restaurant, opened this restaurant, which specializes in shark fin noodles, to provide diners the opportunity to casually experience this luxury ingredient, which is the chef’s signature dish. The casual luxury lets you be yourself while enjoying a high quality repast. I imagine demand for this format can only grow.
Here you can also enjoy alcohol by the casual glass. I order the Tenshin and Dessert Set for an additional 748 yen, along with a glass of sparkling wine (968 yen), and finish the meal with shark fin ramen. It’s the perfect food to top off a mini-drinking session.
And here it is, the shark fin ramen—the biggest of three sizes—with a whopping 100 grams of shark fin. It covers the entire bowl! The slice of shark fin, spreading all the way to the rim of the bowl, is exceptionally Instagrammable. The sauce in the upper part with the shark fin is a brightly colored, richly boiled ankake, light on soy sauce and oyster sauce. Ten kilograms of chicken wings go into every ten liters of the soup, I’m told, so you could say it’s like drinking chicken wings. The flavor is authentic, exquisitely so. Concealed in the depths of the bowl is a refreshing yuzu-tinged chicken broth. It’s a two-layer comfort dish ideal for casual enjoyment. The curly, semi-thick noodles from Asakusa Kaikaro feature a tasty wheat flavor and mingle with the soup to marvelous effect.
Stir the soup a little—a refreshing, aromatic yuzu flavor follows in the wake of the flavors of tender shark fin and springy noodles, surrounded by rich collagen. A rapturous remedy for the soul.
OK, hold on. This ramen uses 100 grams of blue shark, which normally runs around 10,000 yen at a shark fin restaurant. So is this below cost? How about an extra-large bowl like mine for the very, very reasonable price of 3,608 yen?
“We have long-time relationships with wholesalers,” says Tatsuya Ito, the restaurant manager, when I ask. “And we use the pectoral fin, not the tail fin.” On actually trying the dish, my impression is that pectoral fin is a bit thinner, but easier to break up and chew, which actually works better with the noodles. I get a good collagen charge. Still beaming, I eat the accompanying dessert, a creamy annin tofu jelly. Ito-san tells me they also offer six other types of this dessert for takeout as well, and all of them only here at GINZA SIX—honey-tongued ideas whispered by the devil himself!
What’s more, the dessert is made by another Ito, Masaaki Ito, who was once the fourth-generation chef at Maxim’s de Paris in Ginza. The first chef at Maxim’s de Paris was Pierre Troisgros of Troisgros, a restaurant in France that held a three-star rating for more than 50 years. And this is how I learn that my annin tofu is created by a successor to this distinguished culinary lineage!
No matter how full I am, I have no intention of passing up on this opportunity. I make an emergency call to my stomach—there’s always room for dessert!
Compared to the dessert accompanying the meal, the annin tofu (available only at GINZA SIX) is colorful, fruity, with a rich creamy base, making it decidedly French. I listen as Ito-san, who’s here every day, tells me about the purple jelly underlayer of the exotic Lychee (842 yen). To achieve such vibrant color, pigments are extracted from purple cabbage by the same chlorophyll method used to extract green coloring from plants like spinach. The Kiwi Fruit & Mascarpone (842 yen) combines kiwi fruit with mascarpone mousse and tomato marinated in sugar and mint. Underlying its appealing presentation lie the techniques and ideas of a French master chef.
Perhaps Ito-san just supervised the process? No. “I make them right here every morning. I want people to experience the freshness.” Ito-san recommends in particular the Strawberry (842 yen), made from fresh strawberries, not a puree, which gives it extra freshness. At some point, he says, he wants to develop a new menu of nouvelle cuisine chinoise, French-Chinese fusion cuisine. I don’t think I’m alone in looking forward to this.
My last stop is Signifiant Signifié + plus. Signifiant Signifié, a well-known bakery based in Setagaya Ward’s Taishido neighborhood, sells wonderful bread made by Katsuei Shiga, a personal favorite. Fermented for a lengthy period and having high water content, the outside is crispy and the inside moist. Looking at the beautiful cuts with shiny air bubbles, I break out into a smile.
So what’s the “plus”? Good question. It’s the delightful opportunity to buy not just bread at the GINZA SIX location, but wine, too, sold by the ounce! Here we get to experience the happy pairing of bread and wine.
Shiga-san’s bread, kneaded with tons of nuts, dried fruits, and spices, is the perfect bread to snack on while drinking, not to mention the baguettes with their wheaty fermented aroma.
And as further accompaniment, the showcase is stocked with Italian chocolates, which rotate with the season.
I heard when I was small that the French ate chocolate in a baguette as a snack. What panache! I was envious. I want to go back in time and tell my younger self, “You as an adult will be able to treat yourself to Pain au Vin (half-loaf for 2,160 yen), which features plenty of red wine kneaded into the dough, between slices of which you place Raspberry and 66% Dark Chocolate (1,080 yen) and enjoy it all with a glass of red wine.”
Along with sweetbreads like Gugelhupf and panettone, there’s the popular Pain de Mie (1,296 yen), which you can buy in a gift box (275 yen). It makes a perfect little gift.
Two glasses’ worth. Enjoy it all yourself, or buy a red and a white and enjoy alongside a friend. And, of course, you can buy it by the bottle.
Not dazzling like a bright resplendent diamond, but rather like a string of pearls, a calm and quiet contentment that goes on and on. The selection of shops I find at GINZA SIX go perfectly with everyday moments like this. It quiets, and quite tastefully satisfies, my all-consuming voracious curiosity.
No matter what storms may rage in the world, this moment, this now, goes on. It’s why I want to care for this very moment and honor it as I live my life. On sunny days, on rainy days, quiet moments with delicious things at my side. I am made from what I eat. To eat things made with care is to care for oneself. I’m sure Jean Anthelme would agree.
Text: Kyoko Nakayama Photos: Kanako Noguchi Edit: Yuka Okada(81)
仲山今日子
曾任山梨电视台、神奈川电视台播音员等职,现在正在新加坡、意大利等海外和日本的报纸、杂志等上用英语、日语执笔。他还担任了以巴黎为据点的The World Restaurant奖评委。兴趣是在海外秘境旅行,攀登乞力马扎罗登顶等食物+α的冒险。葡萄酒专家和日本酒,酒师的资格证,葡萄酒和日本酒自不必说,还喜欢面包、奶酪、巧克力、咖啡等各种发酵类。最新的美味食物是IG: @kyokonakayamatv。
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