GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
在GINZA SIX中发现的“为了环境,现在自己能做的事” Discovering Ways to Help the Environment at GINZA SIX
平工京子
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.91
从泡沫经济的80年代开始从事这项工作,关于购物,随着年龄的增长,变得相当踏实了。如果说“领导消费”是时尚杂志编辑的工作的话,我可能是有点异质的存在。但是,因为工作关系,眼睛很累。比起买各种各样的东西,用少数精锐主义来买自己想的东西,长期使用的主义。结果,手边还留有那样的东西,变成了我的字罗布。
那个坚实的我的时尚风格适合时代了。这么说也是因为时尚产业多年来对环境产生恶劣影响的事实被公开。生产的衣服卖不出去就会被废弃。据说其量相当于每秒一辆卡车,焚烧产生的CO2量占世界总排放量的10%。
其中,巴黎发布的迪奥的速报吸引了我的目光。那是将170棵树像森林一样排列而成的,仅限这一天的套餐是表演后,在巴黎郊外的几个地方植树造林的项目。在这个以花园和植物为主题的收藏品中,艺术总监玛丽亚·格拉蒂亚·基里自问“自己现在能做的事情是什么”的结果。
考虑到环境,是至今为止一部分以有机食品为志向的人们和浪漫生活方式的人们的印象。那个正在发生很大的变化。我认为迪奥的这个项目是象征性的事情。我感动了。要买什么的话,我想在迪奥买。这种心情萌生了。
在GINZA SIX中央路沿线(B1F~4F)的“House of Dior银座”,现在店内摆放着2020邮轮收藏品。
像迪奥一样的豪华品牌,每一季都会拿出基本的衣服,我平时像盘旋一样找的就是这种衣服。因为材料和缝制都是优质的,如果能遇到适合自己的衣服的话,就可以穿很长的衣服。
从新作中,我试穿了藏青色的日礼服(580000日元※以下全部不含税价格)。
可以说是迪奥的图标,裙子从腰部裙子快速展开的女士轮廓。素材是有张力的丝绸香槟。虽然是披着装饰的迷你设计,但却漂浮着极好的电梯。“女士迪奥”的包(370000日元)和垫底皮革的高跟鞋(112000日元)合在一起,打造出灵感。前面的白色包(390000日元)是“30蒙特尼”的。
因为简单,所以使用小物件可以改变变化,享受乐趣。
民族印有民族风格的头带(41500日元)、刺绣的“女士迪奥”包(650000日元)、棒状的夹子凉鞋(73000日元)。带有CD logo的存在感的皮带(225000日元)也是让人联想到邮轮收藏的灵感源之一“马拉喀什”。
此外,维克多瓦·杜·卡斯特拉纳亲手制作的精细珠宝,总是有很多非常棒的东西。
这是从穆修·迪奥倾注热情的占星术中引进的“玫瑰精选”的收藏品中,月球面和太阳表面的项链(590000日元)。当然可以长期使用。
4楼是生活方式的楼层。喜欢红茶的我,总是被优雅的茶套装吸引。克里斯汀迪奥自己设计的黑色和白色的“穆修迪奥”收藏品。格子系列是新作的胶囊收藏。和秋冬威尔士的收藏品一样,是50年代英国的特迪女孩们引进的。
我对食物的喜好也很传统。比起精心设计的展示,我更喜欢传统的味觉。GINZA SIX经常去的是B2F的《The Pie Hole LA》。
这里是从LA出发的派专卖店。所有的派都是用创业者家族5代传承下来的秘传食谱手工制作的。据说在LA的艺术节的总店里,好莱坞的名流很多。
餐厅一到午餐时间就满了。外卖的客人也很多。因为我吃饭的时间不规律,所以晚上很晚的茶时间经常代替午餐。定制的是王道苹果派“麦当劳”(480日元)。有机咖啡也是这家店的卖点,我是红茶派,所以要喝有机的热茶。
甜甜的苹果派,非常适合想提高血糖值的时间段。化妆不那么大也正好。杂乱无章的口感和湿润的润滑的组合让人病入味的美味。
想吃不甜的馅饼的时候,选择“奶油派”(420日元)。牛肉末和土豆泥的传统热派。土豆非常温柔,让人松了一口气。虽然很朴素,但是精心制作的。这样的日常生活中小小的幸福能丰富心灵。
最后前往的是4F的《Theory》。日常穿的衣服大多是简单而迷你的内裤风格,所以在这个品牌的系统设计上有着共同点。
刚进店的地方是环保的“好羊毛”夹克(48000日元)和裤子(28000日元)。拥有100年历史的意大利工厂,采用最新的节能技术织成的高级梅丽诺羊毛。在世界范围内都很受欢迎,色彩多样化的只有GINZA SIX。
其他的道具也是提供世界最高峰素材的玻璃。穿得很长,材料的优点是非常重要的。试穿了反向的羊毛大衣(320000日元)。因为是无色的,所以穿得像披上一样。把有毛脚的一方放在表面上,表情完全变了。
这也让人在意的毛脚长羊驼针织衫(39000日元)。棕色系的条纹是其他没有的颜色。
店铺很大,可以一边接触理论的世界观,一边悠闲地购物。
另外,利用这个空间,为职业女性提供了新的活动“Be Heard”的谈话活动。参与采访的零售负责人说:“不仅仅是卖东西,我想成为能提供一些加α的店铺。”。
在EC网站上购物不够过分的当今时代,特意去店里买东西是只有在那里才能体验到的。像理论那样,只有GINZA SIX才能做出的社会贡献的努力,今后会不断增加的话就太棒了。
Text:Kyoko Hiraku Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada
I’ve worked as an editor since the bubble era of the 1980s, but as a shopper, as the years have gone by, I’ve become quite prudent. If the job of a fashion editor is to set consumption trends, then I might be something of a maverick. Given the nature of the job, though, I do have a good eye. I don’t buy this, that, and the other thing. I’m a selective buyer. I only buy what I know is right and I wear it for a long time. Ultimately, what I buy stays with me and becomes a real part of my wardrobe.
My prudent approach is nice for the times we live in. We feel more free to speak out about the negative impact the fashion industry has had on the environment over time. Clothes that are made but don’t sell are thrown out. The volume of waste is reportedly equivalent to one truck load per second; the carbon dioxide emitted by incinerating clothing accounts for 10% of the world total.
With all that said, I was recently cheered by a runway breaking news for Dior in Paris. It detailed a brand project in which 170 trees would be deployed, like a forest, on a runway just for one day; after the show, the trees would be planted in suburban locations around Paris. Gardens and plants are the collection’s theme. The idea for this presentation arose when artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri asked herself what she herself could do at the moment.
Until recently, there’s been a general sense that special concerns for the environment are confined to people interested in organic products or living ecologically sound lifestyles. This is changing significantly, and the Dior project is symbolic, I think, of this change. I was impressed. And now I have this budding resolve: If I’m going to buy something, let it be Dior.
House of Dior Ginza at GINZA SIX, which faces Chuo-dori avenue and takes up five floors from the first underground to the fourth, currently features the brand’s 2020 cruise collection prominently at the store front.
Luxury brands like Dior put out basics every season, something I always have my eyes on. The materials and sewing are top drawer; if I find something right for me, it’s good for the long term.
Among the new pieces is this navy day dress (580,000 yen; all prices listed before tax), which I try on.
The ladylike silhouette created by the skirt fanning out with some verve from the waist is like a Dior icon. The material is a supple silk shantung. The design is minimal, sans ornamentation, but achieves the ultimate in elegance. Add a Lady Dior bag (370,000 yen) and patent leather pumps (112,000 yen) for true authenticity. The white bag in the foreground (390,000 yen) is the brand’s 30 Montaigne.
The simplicity lets you match it with different accessories to create different looks.
Here we see an ethnic print headband (41,500 yen), a densely embroidered Lady Dior bag (650,000 yen), and rustic thong sandals (73,000 yen). And this belt with the CD logo (225,000 yen) has such a strong presence. They all call to mind Marrakesh, one of the inspirations behind the cruise collection.
Dior’s fine jewelry— always magnificent pieces—are designed by Victoire de Castellane.
This necklace with a moon on the back and sun on the front (590,000 yen) is from the Rose Select collection, inspired by astrology, one of Monsieur Dior’s passions. Of course, it’s something you could wear for many years.
The fourth floor is the lifestyle floor. I love tea, and I’m always charmed by Dior’s elegant tea sets. The black-and-white Monsieur Dior collection was designed by Christian Dior himself. The Check series is the brand’s new capsule collection. Like the fall/winter women’s collection, it’s inspired by the Teddy Girls of 1950s Britain.
My taste in food is also traditional. I’ll take traditional flavors over the elegance of an elaborate presentation. At GINZA SIX, I often go to The Pie Hole Los Angeles on the second belowground floor.
The Pie Hole is a pie specialist out of LA. All the pies here are made by hand from secret recipes passed down through the founder’s family for five generations. The flagship in Los Angeles is a known haunt of Hollywood celebrities.
The eat-in area at lunchtime fills up immediately, alongside flocks of take-out customers. I eat at irregular hours, so I often take tea at a late hour in place of lunch. My standard order is the classic apple pie—Mom’s Apple Crumble (480 yen). The shop also boasts its own organic coffee, but I’m a tea person, so I have hot organic tea.
The apple pie is plenty sweet. It’s perfect for times when you want to raise your blood sugar levels just a bit. The portions aren’t that big—they’re just right. The crisp, crumbly texture combined with the moist filling is delicious—addictive, even.
When I’m in the mood for pie that isn’t sweet, I choose the Shepherd’s Pie (420 yen), a traditional hot pie filled with ground beef and mashed potatoes. The soft, creamy potatoes warm your heart. The food is simple, but it’s made with care by hand. Small daily delights like this enrich the soul.
Lastly today, I go to Theory on the fourth floor. My everyday style is simple; I usually wear pants with minimal coordination. This brand’s systematic wardrobe shares commonalities with my own approach.
I enter the store and immediately encounter eco-friendly Good Wool jackets (48,000 yen) and pants (28,000 yen). They’re made by an Italian workshop, drawing on a hundred years of history, using high-quality merino wool woven with the latest energy-saving technologies. A popular line worldwide, this variety of colors is available only here at GINZA SIX in Japan.
Theory sources the world’s top materials for its other products, too. Quality of material is essential in determining whether something is worn for many years. I try on the reversible mouton coat (320,000 yen). There’s no collar, so it’s easy to throw it on, nonchalantly. To transform the coat, turn the furry side out.
I also like this long-haired alpaca knit (39,000 yen) and its uniquely toned brown borders.
The spacious store lets you shop at a leisurely pace while experiencing the world of Theory.
The store also uses the space to hold “Be Heard” talks on Theory’s activities, in support of working women. The sales attendant with me today conveys the brand’s passion: “We don’t just want to sell things; we want to be a store that provides something more.”
It’s possible to shop online these days to just the right amount. Why go to actual stores? It’s to experience what you can’t experience elsewhere. Like Theory, GINZA SIX as a whole makes social contributions only GINZA SIX can. I think it is wonderful to see such initiatives continue to expand.
Text:Kyoko Hiraku Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada
平工京子
以80年代的“流行通信”为开端,模式杂志编辑经历了35年。1991年开始,作为自由时尚编辑,在《VOGUE JAPAN》、《Harper’s BAZAAR》、《FIGARO japon》、《SPUR》、《25ans》、《Richesse》等作品中,参与了报道的企划、构成、摄影指导和执笔。讲谈社的网络杂志《ミモレ》(https://mi-mollet.com/subcategory/fashion)中,以时尚界的社会贡献和可持续性的搭配为主题,从2019年11月开始连载。博客“超私人时尚之路”(https://ameblo.jp/kyokohiraku)每天都在更新中。
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