在喜欢光芒的圣殿里忘了时间漫步 – GINZA SIX | GSIX | 银扎西克斯

GINZA SIX EDITORS

时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。

冈部骏佑

GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.5（Jewelry&Watch）

不久前成为话题的海外某篇论文中有一篇题为“人类对有光泽的东西很弱?”说起来,让人联想到水的闪闪发光的质感,自古以来就遗传性地吸引了人类。真假的程度还不清楚,但是因为它把喜欢发光的东西正当化,所以没有比这更难得的借口了。
银座中央大道新诞生的地标GINZA SIX,是一座与光线相称的建筑物。负责内部装修的是法国设计师格耶纳尔·尼古拉。宽广的空间使用,并且开放的通风的中庭,非常适合银座的图标的名字。我想一边缅怀着这种宏伟的方法,一边悠闲地窥视以现代创意而聚集人气的3家店铺。

首先在2楼三原大道侧等待的是弗兰克穆勒的时装店。同样在银座设有路面店的弗兰克穆勒,GINZA SIX的店铺中,作为整体生活方式品牌,原创家具和杂货等也齐备,采用了世界上第一个概念。

首先进入店铺后,映入眼帘的是作为品牌象征的tonou(樽)型的展品。窥视一下,伫立着许多美丽的时间段。在男性顾客占了大半的机械式手表行业中,有着很多女性粉丝的品牌,前面的显示器上摆着华丽的珠宝手表。

这是一款散发着神秘光芒的母亲的女士手表。在手腕上画出绝妙的曲线的情况下,恰到好处的语句。

再往店内走,看到的是迷你丸茂沙发。顾客洽谈用…不是,这些家具也是弗兰克穆勒制造的,全部都是卖点。原来如此,仔细一看,细节沿袭了“トノウ型”。

顺便说一下,里面装饰的餐厅桌子、展示的水晶服装、银色卡特拉力赛、トノウ型家具上的包都是弗兰克穆勒! 顺便说一下,还可以接受将爱科尼克威士忌数字作为纺织品的窗帘。

而且最能体现这个独特概念的是入口旁边同时设置的糕点师。当然,这也是世界上首次的搭配。陈列柜里,和手表一样闪闪发光的甜点。其中还有一粒大约2千日元的马隆坡。为什么糕点师?问了工作人员,他回答说,从“享受时光”这一品牌概念发展起来的,是为了给吃东西也提供特别的时间而提出的新建议。一边沉浸在优雅的心情中,一边告诉他,在离开的时候还会再来。

接着是欧洲老字号珠宝店鳞次栉比的1楼。从中央路入口进入自动扶梯的深处就是1924年在意大利创立的达米亚尼的时装店。
正面的玻璃柜上摆放的是以“贝尔Epoku”和“Dia Icon”为首的各种图标珠宝。其中最引人注目的《艾登》系列是获得珠宝界奥斯卡的钻石国际大奖的名作。近来作为珠宝业界新经典固定下来的年卡夫,白金加上帕维戴亚蒙蒙德,这是一部能感受到流行趋势和无时设计美学的杰作。

说到达米亚尼,2年前世界最大规模的旗舰店也同样在银座开张,但是和之前的弗兰克穆勒一样,这里的时装店采用了世界上独一无二的独特概念。隐瞒什么的时装店和威尼尼尼的混合动力店。

说起威尼尼斯,就是以现代设计和众多著名作家合作而闻名的威尼斯格拉斯的老字号品牌。2016年1月,达米亚尼将威尼斯纳入旗下,在银座开设了两个名字的店铺。

例如,这是安藤忠雄的作品。虽然宝石和玻璃、材料不同,但从传统工匠技术传入现代的两个品牌中,可以感受到相互呼应的菲洛索菲。

另外,不仅仅是进口商品,国内的珠宝品牌开店也是GINZA SIX的一大特征。2楼有拱形、安倍、碧朱布艾姆等日本实力派珠宝。其中引人注目的是日本钻石珠宝、艾法尼的时装店。

从好的意义上来说,这家店不像银座一样的工业内部装修引人注目,还有使用彩色钻石的高珠宝,还有使用彩色钻石的高珠宝,还有墙面上的品牌创始人兼设计师川村“JURY”洋一先生特别注重的艺术工作,这些也被销售。

其中印象最深的是以汉字数字为主题的查姆。一看,就会想到海外游客的喜悦。瞄准入境是太杂乱了,但是对于积极进军海外的日本珠宝来说,GINZA SIX是绝好的平台。实际上这家店的海外粉丝也很多。

GINZA SIX标榜的概念是“新豪华”。新的豪华租赁是什么?是像弗兰克穆勒和达米亚尼那样采用了其他店铺没有的概念的新业态,还是老字号梅森和国内的朝气蓬勃的珠宝共存的独特性呢?虽然其解释多种多样,但是在这座规模宏大的建筑物里,像博物馆一样厚重、近代都市东京特有的混合感性以及银座特有的脱离浮世绘优雅的氛围完美地共存着。

Text : Shunsuke Okabe Photos : Utsumi Edit : Yuka Okada

A foreign study came out some time ago titled “All That Glistens” and became a topic of conversation. It was about why human beings tend to be attracted to shiny objects. According to the study, textures that glisten in a way reminiscent of water have captivated human beings for reasons written deep into our genetic heritage since time immemorial. I can’t say whether this is true, but I couldn’t be happier about the conclusions, since they legitimize all lovers of shiny things.

There’s no building better suited to housing shiny things than GINZA SIX, the new landmark on Ginza Chuo Dori. The interior is the work of French designer Gwenael Nicolas. It’s remarkably spacious; the open and airy atrium is perfect for the iconic Ginza name. With this magnificent approach in mind, let’s take a quick look at three stores currently drawing attention for their modern creations.

First, awaiting you on the Mihara Dori side of the second floor is Franck Muller, which also operates a street-level store in Ginza. As a total lifestyle brand, its GINZA SIX location features original furniture and various other items. It’s the brand’s first store anywhere in the world based on this concept.

When you step into the store, you first see a showcase in the shape of a tonneau, or barrel, which is the brand’s symbol. Looking more closely, you’ll find a selection of striking timepieces on display. As befits a brand with many female fans—in a mechanical watch industry whose customers are mostly men—the timepieces set here before you are all gorgeous articles of jewelry.

These mother-of-pearl ladies watches have a mysterious luster, and their cases are curved to perfectly match the curvature of the wrist. They certainly make a statement.

Moving deeper into the store, you’ll find these modern minimalist sofas. You’d think they were set there for customers to discuss their purchases, but the furniture pieces are actually Franck Muller products, and they’re all for sale. It makes sense once you take a close look and notice the tonneau motif in the details.

I should let you know, too, that the dining table toward the back of the store, the displayed crystal ware and silver cutlery, and the bags sitting in the tonneau-shaped display case are all from Franck Muller! And, moreover, you can special-order the curtains covering the windows, whose textile fabric features the brand’s iconic Byzantine numerals.

I think what best exemplifies this unique brand concept is the patisserie next to the entrance, which is also the first of its kind anywhere for the brand. The showcase is lined with sweets that sparkle just like timepieces. They include marrons glacés for around 2,000 yen each. So, why the patisserie? I asked a staff member, somewhat abruptly. The staff member informed me the idea emerged from the brand concept of enjoying time. The idea was to infuse the act of eating with the special experience of time. So, immersed in this feeling of refinement, I promised to revisit when I left the store.

The first floor features a number of Europe’s most established jewelers. Entering from the Chuo Dori side, you can see, immediately behind the escalator, a boutique from Damiani, the design house founded in Italy in 1924.

In the glass case in the front, you’ll find jewelry items from the brand’s iconic collections, including Belle Époque and D.Icon. I’m drawn particularly to the Eden collection, which won the Diamond International Award, known as the Oscars of the jewelry industry. Ear cuffs have recently emerged as a new standard in the jewelry industry. To me, this white gold cuff decorated with pavé diamonds is both a trendy and timeless aesthetic triumph.

Damiani, as you may know, also opened one of the world’s largest flagship stores in Ginza two years ago. Like the Franck Muller store we just visited, its boutique at GINZA SIX is based on a concept unique in this world. It’s a hybrid store that shares space with Venini.

Venini is a longstanding Venetian glass brand known for its modern designs and many collaborations with renowned designers. In January 2016, Venini became part of the Damiani group. Partly for this reason, the two brands opened their first store together right here at GINZA SIX.

One example is this work by Tadao Ando. Gemstones and glass—the materials differ—but both of the two brands bring traditional craftsmanship to contemporary life. I certainly sense a strong similarity in outlook and philosophy.

A major characteristic of GINZA SIX is that it offers not just imported items but a good number of jewelry brands from inside Japan. On the second floor, you’ll find AHKAH, AbHerï, Bijou de M, and other of Japan’s influential jewelers. I’m drawn particularly to the boutique of EYEFUNNY, the Japanese diamond brand.

The boutique’s industrial—and, in a sense, un-Ginza-like interior—is eye-catching, as are the store’s iconic motif-based jewelry collections and high jewelry with colored diamonds. The walls feature artwork specially ordered by Yoichi “Jury” Kawamura, designer and brand founder. The artworks are also for sale.

I was particularly taken with the kanji-number charms. Inspecting them I see the delight overseas tourists must derive from them. It wouldn’t be fair to say they’re expressly for the inbound market, but for a Japanese jeweler taking an aggressive approach to overseas expansion, GINZA SIX makes the perfect platform. And, in fact, I’m told that many fans of the brand from overseas visit this store.

GINZA SIX is all about New Luxury. But what does New Luxury mean? Is it new store formats that incorporate concepts found nowhere else, like Franck Muller and Damiani? Or is the complex’s distinctive combination of longstanding maisons and cutting-edge domestic jewelers? The possible interpretations are manifold, but in this massively scaled complex you’ll find a splendid blend of museum-like heft, the hybrid sensibility of modern Tokyo, and an otherworldly elegance that’s distinctively Ginza.

Author: Shunsuke Okabe　Photographer: Utsumi　Editor: Yuka Okada