GINZA SIX EDITORS
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记述走路发现的乐趣。
隐藏另一个舞台的哈雷的地方 A Special Place with the Promise of Another Hidden Stage
小西克博
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.85
因为在京桥的出版社工作了很长时间,所以银座就像院子一样。工作结束后还留有一天的夏季晚会特别艳丽,我觉得今后还有一个舞台确实准备好了。
工作变了,来银座的情况变少了,但是来到这里心情总是很兴奋。上午办完事的我决定在银座吃午饭。
走在GINZA SIX6F宽广的餐厅楼层,进入在意的“TEPPANYAKI10GINZA”。总是挤满了客人的印象,今天运气很好地坐在柜台上。
在眼前散发着香味的火焰的柜台,点了平日限定的牛排午餐的短套餐。3800日元(不含税价格)就能吃到北海道彩美牛的牛排很有魅力。具有大厅感的铁板烧是非常罕见的,而且合理的费用设定也是人气的秘密吧。
点香槟酒,我要色拉。一边眺望着眼前展开的厨师的动作,一边用泡沫滋润喉咙,把沙拉送到嘴里。身体好像咔嚓咔嚓。
不久就送来了骰子状易吃的切碎牛排。想要红葡萄酒,配上多汁的牛肉。又软又温柔的味道。
最初是用盐和胡椒来吃肉,然后用加入鹌鹑蛋的洋葱酱油蘸汁。这个酱油可以让牛排里的油腻。牛排的量是150g,但我觉得中午吃午饭正好。
红酒用完的时候,会准备米饭和高菜。
“最后请一定要用高菜茶腌制”
在推荐的情况下吃了高菜茶泡饭,但是用鲣鱼和海带的最简单的汤汁和米饭和高菜拌在一起,不知为何牛排的美味最后又复苏了。
接着,西点师傅用面包车送来甜品。甜点都是法国西点师傅,亚历克·帕奥拉的原创,您选择了几种。其他薄煎饼可以用眼前的铁板烤制。我收到了擅长日语的亚历克斯先生的一个扭曲和摇摆,从白天开始就得到了全程的感觉。
出店后,心情舒畅地在楼层内行走。
到傍晚的约定还有时间,所以下到B2F的食品楼层下车了。听说“BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE(蓝波特咖啡)”新开张的新闻,所以决定去看看。以白色为基调的简单装饰的店内很悠闲,有一种都市的绿洲感。
点了之后炒豆子,用手滴落沏的“西斯纳混合”(\500),因为看起来很好吃,所以也点了“列日华夫饼”(\500)。
杯子和板块是为GINZA SIX店设计的瓷器作家イイホシ由美子设计的,据说每一个都是岐阜县的工房手工制作的。手感和运到嘴里时的重量都很自然。这一天烘焙的埃塞俄比亚和肯尼亚的混合,果味酸味很清爽。
闭上眼睛,远处咖啡树木茂盛的深绿树。优质的咖啡能给想象力带来翅膀。吃完饭后,甜味恰到好处的华夫饼干真的很好吃,啪嗒啪嗒地大吃一惊。
在意的是放在收银台旁边的冰咖啡罐(1个600日元)。非常时尚,还有6个装的包包。这样的咖啡在会议上喝的话心情会变好吧,于是就买回来。
到傍晚的约定还有时间,就这样在食品楼层散步。其实是个很喜欢的地方。从饮食精品店中诞生的流行趋势能很好地反映出世态。
在“葡萄酒店Enoteka”时常会买葡萄酒。巴黎红茶专卖店“贝朱曼&伯顿”的日本限定的皇家奶茶味道的软冰淇淋和烤点心都是禁忌的味道。
爱媛的“10FACTORY”汇集了橘子啤酒当场饮用,使用了从农场直接采购的各种橘子制成的产品,福冈县创立了超过300年的醋老字号,醇厚的醋和食品阵容非常棒的“发酵醋屋庄分醋”,使用福寿园茶制作的最好小吃和提供点心的“黑茶”…走着,在酒店“现在银座”停下脚步。
有角球吗?
看来是一家非常独特的商品齐全的店,从范纳尔到罕见的地方酒,都以合理的价格出售。能站着喝罕见的菊姬10年的东西,我感到很高兴,喝一杯。
这很难脱离GINZA SIX的迷宫。
决定带到傍晚的聚会席上的是“南风农菓舍·甜品屋”的甜点。在这里,以在大隅半岛长大的芋头和香草为材料,可以买到法国MOF糕点师、达维斯玛尔和老板糕点师乡原拓东在GINZA SIX开店时共同制作的原创蛋糕。
充满自然甜味的芋头是绝品。
用3种彩色芋头做的颜色鲜艳的蛋糕,芋头的美味和外观的美丽,即使是一点点的特产也很受欢迎。特别是有女性的座位。
“紫薯巧克力”“黄金番薯杏仁奶糖”“红薯的橙子核桃”。这些都是不会融化的冰蛋糕,在完成的同时冷冻保存的,所以在家里可以品尝到被法国式装饰的大隅半岛的大自然。
3种套餐(1070日元)按聚会人数包装成礼品,终于外出的时候,太阳已经落山了,在茜色的天空下,银座的街道开始点亮了灯。风中有秋天的气息。
接下来是另一个舞台吗?突然和以前的自己重叠在一起。
Text:Katsuhiro Konishi Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
I worked for a long time at a publisher in Kyobashi, so Ginza was like my front yard. Work would end, and Ginza would sparkle, in particular, in the evenings of the long summer days. I remember the promise of something in the air, like a stage yet to come.
I changed jobs, so I don’t come to Ginza as often as I once did. But every time I do, I’m swept by elation. This morning, after finishing an errand, I decided to have lunch in Ginza.
As I stroll the Restaurant Floor on the sixth floor of GINZA SIX, I recall I’ve always been intrigued by TEPPANYAKI 10 GINZA, a place that seemed constantly buzzing with people. Today, I’m lucky enough to find a seat at the counter.
Seated at the counter, flames and aromas rising up before me, I choose the steak lunch, the short course, available only on weekdays. At 3,800 yen (before tax), you can dine on Saibi Beef from Hokkaido, certainly a delightful prospect. This place is one of the rare teppanyaki restaurants with a spacious, hall-like atmosphere. Plus, the prices are reasonable, which probably contributes to the restaurant’s popularity.
I order a glass of champagne and a salad as well. As I study the chef’s meticulous work before me, the bubbly quenches my thirst, and I take a bite of the salad, which leaves me refreshed, my palate clear.
Before long, the steak is brought out, pre-cut into easy-to-eat cubes. I want a glass of red wine and get one that goes perfectly with the juicy beef, which has a nice, mellow flavor.
I first try the beef with salt and pepper, then with an onion, soy sauce, and quail egg sauce, which gives the well-marbled portions of the steak a pleasing, lighter taste. The steak is 150 grams, a perfect portion for an early afternoon lunch.
Just as I finish my wine, I’m served rice and takana mustard greens.
“To finish off the meal, we recommend an ochazuke (a bowl of rice with broth poured over it) with mustard greens.”
I have the dish as recommended. Somehow, this last offering of the meal, a simple ichiban dashi made with bonito and kombu, plus rice and mustard greens, recalls the wonderful flavors of the steak.
Next, the pastry chef brings the desserts around on a cart, each an original creation of French pâtissier Alexis Paola. I asked him to select several for me. You can also have your pancakes grilled right before your eyes, if you ask. Alexis speaks Japanese quite well, and he gives his canelés and soufflés an interesting twist. I have the dessert and feel like I’ve eaten a full course for lunch.
I leave the restaurant and walk the floor in a wonderful mood.
With time remaining before an evening appointment, I head down to the Food Floor on the second belowground floor. Recalling having heard that Blue Bottle Coffee had opened, I decide to stop by. I find the simple, white-toned interior relaxing, an oasis in the city.
I order the Seasonal Blend (500 yen)—the coffee beans are ground and the coffee hand-dripped after you order—and the irresistible Liège waffles (500 yen).
The cups and plates are designed for GINZA SIX by ceramic artist Yumiko Iihoshi, each piece made by hand at her workshop in Gifu Prefecture. The heft and texture when you bring the cup to your mouth feels natural, harmonious. Today’s light-roasted Ethiopia and Kenya blend is fruity, slightly acidic, and refreshing.
I shut my eyes, lost somewhere deep in a forest amid dense-growing coffee trees. Good coffee sets your imagination soaring. It’s just after lunch, but the moderately sweet waffle is a knockout: I make short work of it.
Now, the cans of iced coffee next to the register (600 yen each) catch my eye. The design is stylish, and they’re also sold in packs of six. Presenting this coffee at a meeting would certainly perk things up. I decide to buy some as souvenirs.
Finding there’s still time before my appointment, I stay and walk around the Food Floor, one of my favorite places. Trends that start at food specialty shops tend to be a wonderful reflection of the temper of the times.
At Wine Shop Enoteca, I buy wine from time to time. The royal milk tea soft-serve ice cream and baked sweets of Parisian tea seller Betjeman & Barton—available only in Japan—are beyond compare.
Ehime’s 10FACTORY offers a lineup of products featuring a variety of mikan oranges straight from the orchards; you can drink a mikan beer right in the store. Shoubunsu Vinegar Brewery, long standing for more than 300 years in Fukuoka Prefecture, offers a wonderful selection of mellow vinegars and vinegar products. KUROGI CHACHA provides the ultimate in light fare and sweets made with Fukujuen tea. The list goes on. I continue walking and come to a stop at Imadeya Ginza.
There’s a liquor store here with a pub inside?
The menu presents a striking lineup, from natural wine to great craft beers. The prices are reasonable. Here you can stand and drink a rare and grand Kikuhime 10 years old. I decide to have a glass.
I find I’m having trouble extracting myself from the GINZA SIX labyrinth of fascinations.
In light of my evening rendezvous, I decide to bring dessert from the Minamikaze Noukasha Dessert House. Here, you can purchase an original cake made with ingredients such as sweet potatoes and herbs grown on Osumi Peninsula, first created in a collaboration between Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) Pâtissier Confiseur David Wesmaël and owner-pâtissier Hiroharu Gohara to mark the opening of the GINZA SIX store.
The naturally sweet potatoes are the best.
The colorful cakes made with three potatoes, each a different color, are delicious and pleasing to the eye. They’d make delightful gifts, especially, perhaps, for occasions with women in attendance.
Murasaki-imo (purple sweet potatoes) Chocolate Berry, Ougon-imo (golden sweet potatoes) Almond Caramel, and Beni-imo (red sweet potatoes) Orange Cointreau—they’re called ice cakes, although they don’t melt. They’re frozen as soon as they’re made for a fresh, French-style take on the natural bounty of Osumi Peninsula you can enjoy at home.
I choose the three-cake set (1,070 yen) gift-wrapped in numbers matching the number of people I expect to meet. When I finally head out, the sun has sunk, the sky is wine red, and the lights have come on in Ginza. A breeze is blowing—it feels like fall.
Perhaps another stage awaits ahead. I remember my old self.
Text:Katsuhiro Konishi Photos:Kanako Noguchi Edit:Yuka Okada(edit81)
小西克博
《人萨拉》主编。大学毕业后去欧洲,从北极到南极,大约100个国家。通过共同通信社,在中央公论社参与《GQ》创刊。曾任2本杂志创刊总编、IT企业顾问等职,现职。
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