寻找适合一流大人的“银装打扮” – GINZA SIX | GSIX | 银扎西克斯

GINZA SIX EDITORS

时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。

金森阳

GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.29

在银座,比起时尚这个词,“装束”更为合适。一流的人聚集在一起,一流的东西聚集在一起的街道,我觉得很适合表达品格、整齐服装的语言很合适。所以银座的漂亮装束是西装,但并不是所谓的商务风格,而是稍微有点玩玩的穿法非常好。在本杂志《MEN’S EX》中,也提出了在假日的整洁、鞋子、小饰品等一些小饰品。为了寻找能让人感受到大人从容的装束,在GINZA SIX上闲逛。

首先拜访的是在本杂志上经常刊登西装的《拳击手》。1954年出生于大阪的工厂,是一位拥有众多品牌和知名商店OEM的实力派。这种细致的制作在海外也受到好评,在亚洲、纽约的商店也有展开。如果有人觉得“西装是穿着不舒服的衣服”的话,请一定要穿上袖子。从脖子到肩膀柔软的穿着感觉,西服的看法肯定会改变。就是那样的品牌。

介绍了银座风格的一件事。这样的米色西服在商务场合很难穿,不过,假日的银座自不必说,在繁华的街道上穿的地方也请想象一下。真的很漂亮吗?模样(型)是最高级线的“RING JACKET MEISTER 206”系列的“No.271H”。杀衣领(用熨斗立体地完成平面质地)和袖手旁观的手链,能够更加柔和的穿着和质感。

试穿了一下,果然“领子的旗帜”很棒。吸到脖子上。尺寸不合适的西装是不言而喻的,但是穿着僵硬的成套装动的话领子就会脱落(和衬衫之间有缝隙)。这里没有那种担心。

这家店有6种模式(型),肩膀胸大的我也非常喜欢的模特。顺便说一下,这一天我穿的条纹套装也是戒指制的。

在寻找好东西的欢欣雀跃高涨的时候,为了寻找西装风格中不可缺少的领带,去了“Redix”。这家店以英国为数不多的领带和衬衫的工厂品牌而闻名,亚洲首家店就是这家店。

有粗垄的质地,让条纹图案让人感受到深度的“超级针织衫”,厚厚的质地强有力的“50盎司皇家线圈”,针织泰国那样的网状调织地轻快的“格雷纳丁”,三种织地特别有名。就我个人而言,我也喜欢能很好地兼顾华丽和涩味的色调表现非常棒。

据说在银座店,日本唯一可以从过去的档案布料中选择大剑宽、长度、芯材。实际上在日本出售的泰国,不管是国外还是国内的品牌,大多是按照日本人的平均脖颈尺寸来设定的。正因为如此,脖子细的人和粗的人,会有多余或者不足而感到困扰吧。那样大小的烦恼只要点菜就可以解决。如照片所示,一边看样品一边检查芯地的硬度和大剑宽度。

不知为何非常喜欢领带,明明不知道自己喜欢的图案会不会卷起来,却马上买了。之前的工作是Begin的主编,基本上都是休闲风格的,但是在4年多的时间里买到的泰国有40多个(采访之后数)。当然也有很多没有卷的泰国,正在反省买太多了。但是我非常喜欢这个复古图案,所以正在研究订单。

“不列颠女仆”是一家店,从衣服到小物件,经营着很多英国品牌的“不列颠女仆”,西装风格的基础是英国鞋。这里经营的“约瑟芬奇”是1886年在北安普敦创立的高超品牌。迷上了高档线的内涵收藏品之美,却被吸引了眼球的是个人订购服务“1 of 1”的文字。

这家店的特点是日本唯一常设个人订单。可以选择Apa的颜色,关于全布罗格和半布罗格可以按各个部分组合,并且特制的盒子里还附有修剪圣诞树等护套元件,在鞋内侧的小窗里加入自己的名字。

而且在可以订购的6款款型中,还可以订购成品中没有展开的2个轮子的平面和外羽的直接芯片! 名字,附属套装,限定型等等,只有个人订单才有的特别感太高兴了。这是一个正统却想让玩耍的大人最适合的服务吧。

话说回来,采访当天的天气预报是雪。为了应对这一对策,他穿着以登山鞋为根源的帕拉靴双鞋“威廉”。此外,他还访问了拥有4双共计5双的鞋品牌“帕拉靴银座店”。

发现的是人气模特“香板”的银座店限定模特。型是排除绿色品牌标签,将诺维詹制法改为Goody Welto制法,意识到礼服感的模型。像揉皮一样柔软的手感的浅蓝色皮上层,“啊,不愧是法式品牌啊”。

这次访问的每家店都有,让装束让人感受到情趣的“银扎西克斯限定”单品。和银莎装扮相配的令人兴奋的绝品还有很多,我也想去看看其他的商店。

Text：Yo Kanamori Photos：Takeshi Wakabayashi Edit：Yuka Okada

Attire. I think the word’s a perfect fit for Ginza, certainly better than fashion. Attire, a word that refers to clothing of finer and more formal character, goes quite well, I think, with a district that draws together people and products of the highest quality. Formal attire for Ginza, then, is the suit, although the ideal is to dress with a slight sense of play; we’re not talking about the everyday business suit. In MEN’S EX, our magazine, we suggest incorporating a bit of whimsy in one’s more proper and formal weekend attire: in your suit, shoes, and accessories. So, then, with the goal of finding attire characterized by a relaxed and grownup sense of grace, I head to GINZA SIX and wander.

I head first to RINGJACKET MEISTER GINZA, whose suits are often featured in our magazine. Established in 1954 in an Osaka factory, the brand has a reputation for getting the job done right. It also handles contracted work for many other brands and well-known boutiques. The conscientious workmanship it’s known for is highly regarded overseas as well, and it operates stores in other parts of Asia and in New York. If you believe suits aren’t comfortable, I urge you to try putting on one of these suits. Experiencing the soft and comfortable fit from neck to shoulders will change your perceived ideas of a suit. It’s that kind of brand.

I had the store show me a suit with a distinctive Ginza air. Wearing a beige suit like this for business might be pushing it, but I want you to imagine being in Ginza on the weekend, wearing this suit amid the hustle and bustle. Quite stylish, don’t you think? The pattern is No. 201H from the RINGJACKET MEISTER 206 series, the brand’s most premier line. This collar, sewn by giving a three-dimensional finish to flat fabric through an ironing process, and hand-stitched armholes accentuate the comfortable fit and high quality.

I try it on, and the rise of the collar is certainly wonderful. It stays right on the neck. A suit that doesn’t fit is beside the point, but with ready-made suits that feel stiff, when you move, the collar sometimes lifts—a gap forms between the collar and the inner shirt. No such worries with this suit.

The GINZA SIX store offers six patterns, including models that fit me perfectly, even with my large shoulders and chest. Incidentally, the striped suit I’m wearing today is made by RINGJACKET.

With my excitement building over these quality finds, I’m now off to Drake’s, inside the British Made store, to look for neckties, an essential accessory for any suit. Drake’s is famous as one of the few remaining shirt and necktie factory brands based in the UK. This is the first Drake’s store in Asia.

Three fabrics are especially famous: The thickly ribbed fabric of Super Repp lends a sense of depth to the striped pattern; the robust 50 oz Royal Twill is made from a heavy, sturdy fabric; and the lighter Grenadine features a mesh-like weave similar to a knit tie. Personally, I also have a soft spot for the wonderful color patterns that deftly combine florid and low-key tones.

Here at the GINZA SIX store, and only here in Japan, you can select and order from the brand’s archive of fabrics of your preferred width, length, and lining. The ties sold in Japan, for brands both domestic and overseas, predominantly come in lengths matched to the average neck size of a Japanese person. If you have a somewhat slender or somewhat bulky neck, this explains why you’ve been frustrated at times by ties that are too long or too short. Buying ties by custom order resolves these concerns. As shown in the photo, you can check the stiffness of the lining and the width while looking at samples.

I don’t know why, but I love neckties. When there’s a pattern I like, I buy it immediately, even if I’m not sure I’ll ever wear it. When I was editor-in-chief at Begin magazine, my previous job, casual style was the norm. Still, in a little over four years, I collected over 40 ties. (I actually counted them later.) Some of these ties, of course, I’ve never worn, and it’s possible I’ve bought too many. But I absolutely love these vintage-like patterns, so I’m currently considering ordering one.

British Made, with Drake’s inside, carries a large number of British brands, ranging from clothing to accessories. As a basic accompaniment for any suit, I’ve been searching for British-made shoes. The footwear available here includes shoes from Joseph Cheaney, a master shoemaker established in Northampton in 1886. Enchanted as I am by the beauty of the Imperial Collection, the brand’s premium line, I nevertheless find my eyes alighting on 1 of 1, the brand’s personalized order service.

Among the store’s features is the brand’s only personalized order service offered in Japan. You can select the color of the upper; for the full brogue or semi-brogue, you can coordinate from part to part. The special box provided with the order comes with a care kit (including a shoetree)—plus, they’ll put your name in a little window on the inside of the shoe.

Six models available for order include types that aren’t ready-made by the brand: the two-eyelet plain toe and straight-tip blucher. The shoe comes bearing your name and accompanied by a care kit. The service also includes limited-edition patterns—the feeling of distinction that comes with personalized orders is a true delight. This is perhaps the perfect service for adults who like to mingle orthodoxy with a little sense of play.

Incidentally, today’s forecast calls for snow, so I’m wearing the William double monk from Paraboot, a brand with roots in mountaineering. I have four or five other pairs from the brand as well—it’s one of my favorite shoe brands. Naturally enough, I visit Paraboot GINZA next, as the end of this wander.

I discover a model available only at the GINZA SIX store, the highly popular Chambord. I find that the green brand tab has been removed, and the Norwegian method was replaced by the Goodyear welt—it’s a model aware of the requirements of dressing up. The texture is soft, like buffed leather, and the light-brown grain leather upper creates a depth of refinement that’s the hallmark of a French brand.

All the stores I visited today have GINZA SIX–only items that lend refinement to one’s attire. I’m encouraged to visit the other stores, too—I’m certain more exciting treasures await there that go perfectly with Ginza attire.

Text：Yo Kanamori　Photos：Takeshi Wakabayashi　Edit：Yuka Okada