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时装,珠宝&表,生活方式,美,食物…
精通各种类的充满个性的编辑们GINZA SIX和闲逛
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找适合一流的大人的"作为ginza的装扮" Finding Ginza Attire for First-Class Adults
金森阳
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.29
在银座,"装扮"这个表达比时装这个语言相称。一流的人聚集,一流的东西聚集的市镇认为表现有品格的准备的服装的语言适合。为因此作为银座的好天气样地穿戴而套装但是好像作为所谓商务,那么,没有,并且有娱乐活动的穿戴有点绝好。在弊杂志"MEN'S EX,正建议也有小量的娱乐活动味道使节假日的规矩齐整地作为&好天气的装扮用套装以及鞋,小东西的。那样,并且找让感到大人的宽余的装扮GINZA SIX突然。
首先拜访的是弊杂志,但是好好刊登套装吧的"ringujakettomaisuta。"是也用在1954年出生的大阪的工厂发源经手许多的品牌以及有名的店铺的代工生产的实力派。作为那个敬重,做也被在国外估价,甚至亚洲,纽约的店铺被展开。假如也有"套装穿着不舒服的衣服"和想的的话,想这个1位一定通过袖子一回看。用身体感觉从头颈到肩膀的柔软的穿着的感觉的话套装的看法毫无疑问变化。是那样的品牌。
介绍看似银座的1位了。用商务穿这样的浅驼色的套装很难吧,但是,不仅节假日的银座而且,想想像在热闹的市镇穿着的地方。那么真地没有小精华吗?模式(型),作为顶级线的"RING JACKET MEISTER 206"特辑的"No.271H。"杀,领子(用熨斗工作立体地完成平面的质地)以及袖子的手针脚加快柔软的穿着的感觉和雅致感觉。
试穿的话"领子的上升"仍然出色。吸在头颈上。不大小合适的套装不相干,但是常有牢固的穿着的感觉的已制成的套装动的话领子脱落(喜欢间隔在衬衫之间完成)。那样的担心在这里完全没有。
模式(型)有6种,使胸也从肩膀突然陷入大的我的型号和同商店一致。顺便我这天穿着的条纹套装是ringujaketto制造。
用当找好的东西的wakuwaku高涨的时候以及在套装式不可缺少的领带找对"DRAKES。"这里作为留在英国的数量少的领带和衬衫的工厂品牌出名,并且和亚洲首次的分店成为的是同商店。
让条纹花样用有粗的垄的质地感到纵深的"supareppu",gashi和做的厚实的质地是好像作为强有力的"50盎司皇家的斜纹布",编织泰国的网丝調織地,并且轻松"堕落,Nadine"和3种織地特别出名。出色的点数个人喜欢使吝啬和华丽巧妙同时进行的彩色花样表达。
大剑宽度,长度,衬布也从唯一,过去的存档质地在日本做挑选,在这里银座商店,订货好歹好像能够。实际上被在日本卖的泰国不问海外,国内名牌,被对日本人的把对平均的颈尺寸合起来的长度设定的东西多。头颈就那些细的以及粗的长度多余,不够,可能感到困难吗?那样的尺寸的烦恼也解决订货。一边像照片那样看样品,一边检查衬布的硬以及大剑宽度。
不知为什么很喜欢领带,并且虽然不知道但是马上买是否把喜欢的花纹围起来。虽然休闲样式在作为前职的"Begin"主编在职时是基本但是有了在超过4年买,收集的泰国多于40条(采访的后来数)。当然有许多不围起来的泰国,正反省说稍微买太多了。不过在像这个复古的花样,很喜欢的东西在讨论订货。
使那样的DRAKES当做店铺INN店铺,是从衣服到小东西办理许多的英国品牌的"不列颠佣人",并且物色套装式的基本,英国鞋。在这里办理的"josefuchini"是在1886年在北安普敦开办的熟练的品牌。一边看中优质线的帝国的收集的美,迷恋,做,一边引人注意的是个人订货服务"1 of 1"的文字。
正在日本常设唯一的个人订货的是同商店的特征。用挑选来,能每隔零件对furuburogu和semiburogu做组合高层的颜色,据说徐树配有关怀配套元件,把自己的名字更加在特制箱在鞋的内侧的小窗放进去。
而且,在可以订货的6型号中,订货到无展开的2小孔的purentou和外面的羽毛的直率的小费用现成品能够! 把名前放进去,附属的配套元件,限定型太对只有个人订货才能做到的特别的感感到高兴了。是想有娱乐活动味道使尽管是正统,但是的大人niuttetsukeno服务吧。
另外,采访当天的天气预报下雪。穿着登山靴作为根的帕拉靴子的双僧侣鞋"威廉"在那个措施。除此之外最后访问作为拥有4双,共计5双的喜欢的鞋品牌的"帕拉靴子银座商店"。
发现的是超人气的型号"shambodo"的银座商店限定型号。型推开绿色的品牌标签,把noruveijan做法改为固特异贴边做法,意识到礼服感觉的模特。有搓,像皮革那样柔软的手感的浅褐色的shibo皮革高层"让那样做,但是作为法式品牌"的趣味是深的成功。
让这次访问的哪家商店也有的装扮感到趣味的"ginzashikkusu限定"项目。好像还有在ginza的装扮适合的感到兴奋的绝品,变得也想窥视其他的店铺了。
Text:Yo Kanamori Photos:Takeshi Wakabayashi Edit:Yuka Okada
Attire. I think the word’s a perfect fit for Ginza, certainly better than fashion. Attire, a word that refers to clothing of finer and more formal character, goes quite well, I think, with a district that draws together people and products of the highest quality. Formal attire for Ginza, then, is the suit, although the ideal is to dress with a slight sense of play; we’re not talking about the everyday business suit. In MEN’S EX, our magazine, we suggest incorporating a bit of whimsy in one’s more proper and formal weekend attire: in your suit, shoes, and accessories. So, then, with the goal of finding attire characterized by a relaxed and grownup sense of grace, I head to GINZA SIX and wander.
I head first to RINGJACKET MEISTER GINZA, whose suits are often featured in our magazine. Established in 1954 in an Osaka factory, the brand has a reputation for getting the job done right. It also handles contracted work for many other brands and well-known boutiques. The conscientious workmanship it’s known for is highly regarded overseas as well, and it operates stores in other parts of Asia and in New York. If you believe suits aren’t comfortable, I urge you to try putting on one of these suits. Experiencing the soft and comfortable fit from neck to shoulders will change your perceived ideas of a suit. It’s that kind of brand.
I had the store show me a suit with a distinctive Ginza air. Wearing a beige suit like this for business might be pushing it, but I want you to imagine being in Ginza on the weekend, wearing this suit amid the hustle and bustle. Quite stylish, don’t you think? The pattern is No. 201H from the RINGJACKET MEISTER 206 series, the brand’s most premier line. This collar, sewn by giving a three-dimensional finish to flat fabric through an ironing process, and hand-stitched armholes accentuate the comfortable fit and high quality.
I try it on, and the rise of the collar is certainly wonderful. It stays right on the neck. A suit that doesn’t fit is beside the point, but with ready-made suits that feel stiff, when you move, the collar sometimes lifts—a gap forms between the collar and the inner shirt. No such worries with this suit.
The GINZA SIX store offers six patterns, including models that fit me perfectly, even with my large shoulders and chest. Incidentally, the striped suit I’m wearing today is made by RINGJACKET.
With my excitement building over these quality finds, I’m now off to Drake’s, inside the British Made store, to look for neckties, an essential accessory for any suit. Drake’s is famous as one of the few remaining shirt and necktie factory brands based in the UK. This is the first Drake’s store in Asia.
Three fabrics are especially famous: The thickly ribbed fabric of Super Repp lends a sense of depth to the striped pattern; the robust 50 oz Royal Twill is made from a heavy, sturdy fabric; and the lighter Grenadine features a mesh-like weave similar to a knit tie. Personally, I also have a soft spot for the wonderful color patterns that deftly combine florid and low-key tones.
Here at the GINZA SIX store, and only here in Japan, you can select and order from the brand’s archive of fabrics of your preferred width, length, and lining. The ties sold in Japan, for brands both domestic and overseas, predominantly come in lengths matched to the average neck size of a Japanese person. If you have a somewhat slender or somewhat bulky neck, this explains why you’ve been frustrated at times by ties that are too long or too short. Buying ties by custom order resolves these concerns. As shown in the photo, you can check the stiffness of the lining and the width while looking at samples.
I don’t know why, but I love neckties. When there’s a pattern I like, I buy it immediately, even if I’m not sure I’ll ever wear it. When I was editor-in-chief at Begin magazine, my previous job, casual style was the norm. Still, in a little over four years, I collected over 40 ties. (I actually counted them later.) Some of these ties, of course, I’ve never worn, and it’s possible I’ve bought too many. But I absolutely love these vintage-like patterns, so I’m currently considering ordering one.
British Made, with Drake’s inside, carries a large number of British brands, ranging from clothing to accessories. As a basic accompaniment for any suit, I’ve been searching for British-made shoes. The footwear available here includes shoes from Joseph Cheaney, a master shoemaker established in Northampton in 1886. Enchanted as I am by the beauty of the Imperial Collection, the brand’s premium line, I nevertheless find my eyes alighting on 1 of 1, the brand’s personalized order service.
Among the store’s features is the brand’s only personalized order service offered in Japan. You can select the color of the upper; for the full brogue or semi-brogue, you can coordinate from part to part. The special box provided with the order comes with a care kit (including a shoetree)—plus, they’ll put your name in a little window on the inside of the shoe.
Six models available for order include types that aren’t ready-made by the brand: the two-eyelet plain toe and straight-tip blucher. The shoe comes bearing your name and accompanied by a care kit. The service also includes limited-edition patterns—the feeling of distinction that comes with personalized orders is a true delight. This is perhaps the perfect service for adults who like to mingle orthodoxy with a little sense of play.
Incidentally, today’s forecast calls for snow, so I’m wearing the William double monk from Paraboot, a brand with roots in mountaineering. I have four or five other pairs from the brand as well—it’s one of my favorite shoe brands. Naturally enough, I visit Paraboot GINZA next, as the end of this wander.
I discover a model available only at the GINZA SIX store, the highly popular Chambord. I find that the green brand tab has been removed, and the Norwegian method was replaced by the Goodyear welt—it’s a model aware of the requirements of dressing up. The texture is soft, like buffed leather, and the light-brown grain leather upper creates a depth of refinement that’s the hallmark of a French brand.
All the stores I visited today have GINZA SIX–only items that lend refinement to one’s attire. I’m encouraged to visit the other stores, too—I’m certain more exciting treasures await there that go perfectly with Ginza attire.
Text:Yo Kanamori Photos:Takeshi Wakabayashi Edit:Yuka Okada
