GINZA SIX EDITORS
时尚、珠宝&手表、生活方式、美容、食品…
精通各种类型的个性丰富的编辑们,在GINZA SIX上闲逛
记述走路发现的乐趣。
一边沉浸在思索中,一边重新审视自己,步行媒体的场所 Examining Oneself While Lost in Thought: A Place for Walking Meditation
吴佳子
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.49
午后的银座,中央路没有影子。
躲在店门口的一点点影子里走着,影子中断的话就像忍者一样小跑。为了不撞到来往的人,向右拐。以时尚潮流的分析、今后的趋势预测为生业的我,抱着企划的想法、进展到中途的原稿、信息饱和的头脑,在陷入困境的时候,总是固定的走路。
不过,最近不是普通的那么热吗?
滴答答肌肤的阳光。翻过来路面闪闪发光。7月初就迎来了超过体温的酷暑。虽然不是很辛苦,但是这样下去的话,会慢慢蒸发的! 秋天啊,快来!
我去了GINZA SIX避难,就像被清爽的冷气所吸引。
是的,其实GINZA SIX,是一个人走着一边埋头思考,最适合把乱糟糟的头重置的地方。这次,在GINZA SIX的步行媒体上,介绍一下一边让头脑清爽,一边畅想秋天的装束,在这一刻推荐的路线。
在具有清凉感的白色清洁空间的GINZA SIX上,馆内到处都是艺术。其中,在任何时候都能看到的常设展上,要说能引出脑内α波的作品,那就是数字艺术瀑布“Univers of Water Particles on the Living Wall”。
这是以使用最先进技术的艺术作品而闻名的teamLab(teamLab)创作的。从3层的高12米的墙面上流着水。话虽如此,实际上既不是有水,也不是播放真人影像,而是瀑布用纤细的触感满满地描绘出来的。怎么说呢,本应静止的绘画突然动起来了。掉落的水会碰到石头,飞沫,岩石像带子一样流畅地传递。
在闪闪发光的同时,慢慢地眺望着各种各样表情的水的动作,不知不觉中心开始在现实和虚拟的交界处轻飘飘地游泳。杂乱无章的每一天都觉得很远,准备就完成了。GINZA SIX开始了步行媒体。
带着松软的心情在馆内闲逛。话说回来,站在GINZA SIX的通道上就很清楚了,但是每个店铺的区划都不整齐地排列着,有时会挤进去。据说这个没有特意整理好。简直就像是误入胡同里一样,这种氛围。总觉得一边沉思着,一边容易闲逛。
那么,在前进的过程中,像雾一样,我明白了现在需要的东西。那是秋天准备的新包。因为工作关系,大部分的新款包都在检查,但是这个秋天,如果我从很多东西中选择的话,那就是“ALEXANDER McQUEEN(亚历山大麦奎因)”(3楼)。
说到麦奎因,虽然很优雅,但看起来像古典音乐,很摩登。同时拥有相反两个要素的设计,其中一个不可分割的两面性,牢牢抓住了复杂的女人心吧。最近,英国王室凯特王妃的御用品也被认可。
新作《珠宝石》(¥260,000※以下全部不含税价格)是麦奎因的图标包、带有4个环的“Forin离合器”的挎包。
重点是在环状的部分戴上手指,以饰品的感觉被小腋下。毕露旁边的斯卡诱发了麦奎因的毒。
嗯,果然离合器型也很难舍弃。这里的“Fouring化妆包”(¥266000)用施华洛世奇水晶装饰,给人一种更加华丽的印象。穿着白T恤的我,总觉得适合休闲风格?
圆圆的四角形形状可爱的招牌“包包”也依然存在。不要太可爱了,是因为古董的旅行包和宝箱得到了设计的构思。
“这也是新作”的工作人员的呼声吸引了我手里的“水桶包”(¥281000)。
和包包一样,从古董和中世纪的宝箱中获得灵感,毫不犹豫的纯洁造型是从“折纸艺术”中得到灵感。与街头巷尾流行的荷包包划清界限,个性和精致的设计在搭配上发挥了重点。
渐渐上车的我,去了预收藏的架子。
手上的是粗细细和红色修剪令人印象深刻的黑色针织衫。今年秋天的脖子肯定是焦油。这款针织衫的肩部分有大胆的剪发,可以窥视一下肩部的鲶鱼肌肤。用焦油和长袖的袖子遮住肌肤,绝妙的色拉主义营造出性感。这个细节也是今年秋天的流行趋势。来到这里,酷暑的记忆已经远去了。暂时缅怀秋冬时装。
说到秋冬,欧美品牌的最新收藏品中,外套十分丰富。要检查外套! 因此,去了同一层的“HERNO”。
“赫尔诺”是今年迎来创业70周年的意大利豪华品牌。发源于高品质的雨衣制作,之后亲手制作的羽绒服等,只对外套限定商品。
与融化般触感的山羊绒等最高级的天然素材一起,果敢地引进户外用品中使用的高科技素材,率先制作物品。舒适的功能性和时尚优雅的设计性,而且正面没有品牌标志也很高,是时尚界人士中很受欢迎的品牌。
首先引人注目的是店内独特的显示器。外套和夹克等商品都挂在挂钩上。现在在其他品牌中也能看到同样的显示器,但实际上领先这种手法的也是“赫尔诺”。
据说悬挂的皮带代表着“传统”,不锈钢的挂钩表示“现代主义”。在重视历史和工匠技术的同时,通过新的挑战来刷新自己。品牌的姿态被表现出来了。
立刻披上了白色的羽绒服,其特征是从胸前优雅站着的大领子和七分袖。简单又优雅的设计,不仅是基本的风格,连礼服上也不会有违和感。因为是经常去时尚相关的招待会、派对、表演等活动,寒冷时期让人头疼的是外套的选择。这是一种不太休闲(=作为招待客人不会失礼),不要太过紧(=每日也想使用)的贪婪需求。专业品牌特有的外套变化也很丰富。针织衫手臂的套装也要检查。
哎呀! 虽说是步行媒体,但还是变成了橱窗购物呢!(汗)
面对自己的欲望也是一个人走的乐趣。在闲逛的过程中,我发现今天的时间也在用完的我去了地下一层。想要探索自己的潜在意识!“IPSA”的柜台。
目标是导入肌肤测定器“易普萨”中导入的基于设计心理学的印象分析工具。这是一款直截了当地看穿自己无意识地认为“想被这样看”的心情,是可怕的测定器。
在不断出现的味道不同的两张照片中,直觉就选择“好!”的一张。不考虑,每人1秒。通过选出的10张图像,可以解读当时的心情和想要成为的印象等潜在意识。
我今天的心情是“优雅”。上次测定一次的时候是“酷”,也许还是反映了在GINZA SIX上闲逛后的高涨心情。
结合事先测定的肤色&血色感和潜在意识的结果,推荐的阵容如下。唇膏是配合工作,约会,假日,聚会,假日,派对等4种颜色。平时拿不到的颜色,试着涂一下就觉得不可思议,很合适。一支唇膏就能遇到新的自己。
不知什么时候朦胧的头脑中也很清爽。在GINZA SIX的步行媒体上,完成了不输给酷暑的能量充电!我脚步轻快,离开了馆。
Text:Yoshiko Go Photos:Akemi Kurosaka Edit:Yuka Okada
It’s early afternoon in Ginza, and there’s no shade on Chuo-dori street. I move from one patch of shade to another under the store awnings, darting like a ninja where shade peters out and dodging left and right to keep from bumping into people passing by.
I make my living analyzing fashion trends and predicting future trends. When my head brims with all kinds of scattered information related to project ideas or half-finished manuscripts and I hit a wall, I go out for a walk.
But, wait a minute. Hasn’t it been unusually hot out lately?
The sun’s rays are scorching. The reflections off the road are dazzling. It’s July, and the extreme heat has already arrived, temperatures exceeding body temperature. If nothing changes, I may simply evaporate. Fall can’t get here soon enough!
As if lured by fresh, cool air, I vacate to GINZA SIX.
GINZA SIX is the perfect place to lose yourself in thought, the ideal place to walk about on your own to refresh a cluttered mind. Today I’ll engage in walking meditation at GINZA SIX. As I clear my head, I’ll focus, with some longing, on attire for the upcoming fall. I’ll show you my recommended route for moments like this.
As you may know, GINZA SIX, in its refreshingly clean, white spaces, here and there throughout the building, features works of art. One of the works on permanent display, something you can count on seeing every time you visit, is the digital art waterfall, “Universe of Water Particles on the Living Wall.” It’s a work that seems to inspire your brain’s alpha waves.
This piece is the work of teamLab, known for artwork based on cutting-edge technologies. Water flows down a wall from a height of 12 meters, a span of three floors. This said, it’s not a matter of whether there’s actually water here or whether an actual live image of waterflow is being reflected: the waterfall is depicted dynamically, but with a delicate touch. The impression is of a painting that’s suddenly begun to move on its own. When the falling water strikes a rock, it splashes, then flows over the rock surface like a sash. As I gaze, hypnotized by the movement of the water, its appearance shifting as it sparkles, I begin to swim lightly, unawares, at somewhere near the boundary of reality and illusion. Days of disorder appear to drift far away. Now my preparations are complete, and the walking meditation at GINZA SIX begins.
I feel I’m floating as I wander the building. Incidentally—and this is something you can see quite clearly when you stand in one of the hallways at GINZA SIX—the stores aren’t aligned with their toes set to a straight line. Rather, they appear haphazardly set back or set forward. They’ve been deliberately misaligned. It recalls the feel of being lost wandering down back alleys. No wonder it’s so easy to wander around here, lost in thought.
As I continue to walk, the clouds suddenly lift. I understand now what I need: a new bag for fall. In all likelihood, I’ll end up checking out nearly all the new bags anyway, given my line of work, but if I had to choose, of the many options this fall, I’d go with Alexander McQueen (3rd floor).
McQueen features designs both elegant and avant-garde—modern, but creating the impression of a classic. Having two opposing elements, a dual nature that can’t be divided into one or the other element, somehow perfectly captures the complex heart of women. It’s no wonder the brand recently became an official purveyor to Princess Catherine of the British royal family.
The brand’s new Jewelled Satchel (260,000 yen; all prices listed before tax) is the shoulder bag version of McQueen’s iconic Four-Ring Clutch, which does have four rings.
One notable feature is that the bag can be held under your arm, like an accessory, if you place your fingers though the rings. Putting the skull next to the gem is a typical McQueen twist.
Of course, you wouldn’t want to disregard the classic genre. On this Four-Ring Pouch (266,000 yen), each colorful stone is ornamented with Swarovski crystal for a touch more glamour. I’m here wearing a white T-shirt, and the pouch seems to go quite well with the casual approach.
The adorable standard Box Bag with its bulging, square shape is always tempting. A design inspired by antique travel bags and jewelry boxes sidesteps the trap of the cute done to excess.
“This is also new,” a staff member tells me. I take a look at the Bucket Bag (281,000 yen).
Like the Box Bag, this bag is inspired by antique luggage and medieval jewelry boxes. Its strikingly clean form, I’m told, takes hints from the art of origami. The refined, distinctive design sets it apart from the crowd of pouches in current vogue. They’d serve as perfect accents for a nicely coordinated look.
Getting into the swing of things, I head to the pre-collection rack.
Here I’m holding a black knit with striking ruffle details and red trimming. The turtleneck is definitely the neckline for this fall. This knit features bold cut-offs in the shoulder area, allowing the bare skin of your shoulders to peak through, both demure and bold. The turtleneck and long sleeves cover your skin, but this exquisite, brief glimpse generates a certain sexiness. Details like this are the trend for fall. At this point, the extreme summer heat is but a distant memory. We’ll turn our thoughts briefly to fall and winter fashions.
For fall and winter, outerwear is the dominant note in the latest collections from European and American brands. I have to check out the outerwear! So I head to Herno on the same floor.
Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, Herno is an Italian luxury brand that got its start as a purveyor of high-quality raincoats. Herno later moved on to include down coats and other outerwear items in its collection, which remains limited to outerwear.
The brand is a forerunner of a design trend that boldly combines ultra-high quality natural materials, like cashmere, with their enchanting smooth and soft textures, and the high-tech materials common in outdoor goods. Comfort, functionality, a modern look, elegance, plus the lack of a brand logo on the exterior score numerous points with me and others and make this brand especially popular with fashion industry professionals.
The store’s unique displays are what first catch the eye. The coats and jackets—all of the products—hang off hooks. You see similar displays these days from other brands, but this method was pioneered by Herno.
The leather belts hanging from the hooks are said to represent tradition, and the stainless hooks themselves to represent modernity. Pursue new challenges and innovation while maintaining a regard for history and artisanship: This expresses the brand’s basic stance.
I try on an off-white down jacket. It features three-quarter sleeves and a large collar that stands off your chest. The characteristic design is simple but elegant, a perfect match for a basic style, or perfect even worn over a dress. Work often brings me to fashion-related receptions, parties, shows, and other events, so when it’s cold, I worry about choosing the right outerwear. I look for a design that meets my every need: not too casual (to avoid appearing an indifferent or cavalier guest), but not too formal (something I can wear day to day). The dedicated brand offers a large variety of outerwear. I check out the cape, too, which comes with knit arm-warmers.
Hold on! I was talking about “walking meditation,” but now I’m just window-shopping. [sweating]
Watching one’s own desires gradually come into focus is one of the real pleasures of walking alone. Today, as I wander about, I suddenly notice my allotted time dwindling. I head to the first belowground floor—perhaps to explore my subconscious! And this counter at Ipsa is where I go.
I’m here today to take a look at an impression analysis tool, based on design psychology, implemented into the IPSALYZER, the instrument that measures the condition of your skin. It’s a formidable device that peers into your subconscious to gauge precisely how you want to look at that moment.
You’re presented with successive sets of two pictures of different tastes. You’re told to choose, based on intuition alone, which of the two you think is best. You’re shown one pair per second, too short a time to think. The ten total pictures you choose are then used to analyze your subconscious, your feelings at that moment, and the image of yourself as you wish to be.
My mood today is “Elegant.” I was “Cool” the last time I had the analysis done, so today’s result likely reflects my high spirits after wandering GINZA SIX.
Combining the results for skin color and complexion measured previously and the results for the analysis of my subconscious this time produces the following recommended lineup: For lipstick, four colors proposed for four different occasions: work, dates, weekends, and parties. Even colors I wouldn’t normally try look strangely perfect when I put them on. A single stick of lipstick leaves me feeling transfigured, a new version of myself.
I’d felt a bit hazy, but at some point, my head clears completely. Walking meditation at GINZA SIX gives me the complete energy transformation needed to stand up to the intense heat. My feet feeling light, with a confident gait, I take my leave.
Text:Yoshiko Go Photos:Akemi Kurosaka Edit:Yuka Okada
吴佳子
资生堂时尚导演。负责时尚潮流的分析研究和趋势预测。每年都会在世界各地进行收藏采访……如果只是这样的话很帅,但是在家里每天都会为照顾2个孩子(3岁、7岁)而挥舞头发。今年也接受PTA活动的洗礼。在《花椿》网站上撰写专栏。http://hanatsubaki.shiseidogroup.jp/fashion/
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